RO/DI Unit and Auto Topoff

[jeffreylam1132]

Hi,

I'm in the process of buying a typhoon III unit and planning on using it for my fridge(icemaker and water) and for auto topoff for my reef tank. I'm planning on running the unit straight to the sump for topoff instead of running it to a reservior container than to the sump, because space are limited. Can anybody tell me what I will need to do this right and is it safe? I hear a lot of people prefer to run it to the reservior container first, then to the sump. I would love to do that method but as I stated, space are limited. If anybody out there that has there ro/di unit straight to the sump, please help me out. Please tell me all the equipment I would need for this setup and all the safety method to prevent overflow. Thanks a lot for your help. Diagrams and pics would also be very helpful.

Thanks,
Jeffrey

 

[ReefMeister2]

been really busy with school,
but for now here's a couple of links for you:

http://www.reeftek.com/reef-relief/index-products-aatoc.htm

Also get a standard Kent float valve for the final output to add a third level of redundancy in addition to the dual floats.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KM1675

Don't forget to order the pressure tank with the Typhoon, you must have one to supply the system

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Hi Kelvin,

As I told you it's gonna be for my fridge and auto topoff to my sump. Do I need one pressure tank or two? I think the typhoon package include the float valve, I hope. If so, that would be good enough and I won't need the Kent float valve, right?

 

[ReefMeister2]

It's a matter of preference on both.
I prefer the Kent valve for use in my sump, but the compact airwaterice float for my water barrel. Either is fine.

I started with only a single pressure tank years ago, but I didn't like it when I used water for the fish tank/water barrel (depleting the 3.2 gallon tank) and then not having water available for drinking. It took awhile for the RO unit to catchup.
I now simply segregate a tank specifically for my kitchen and the other pressure tank feeding the fish tank. It's up to you, but at only an extra $29, its alot more convenient having pure water available at all times at the fridge regardless what I do with the fish.

For instance, I really like adding on a "dishwashing" style water hose to my sink in the garage (fed via the RO unit/pressure tank). The concentrated spray of this nozzle is absolutely awesome for rinsing pad filters, filter socks, and other fish equipment, etc. with pure RO water. The high pressure stream of water really cleans things well...much better than my regular faucet for some reason.

Your final DI stage is only for topoff water only (and mixing for saltwater whenever you get around to that)
You can drink DI water but it is a waste of resin. Straight RO tastes better anyway. the plumbing directions for the Typhoon will explain all this, so no need to understand it now.

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Thanks a lot, Kelvin. Before, making the order, do I need anything else, because it'll be better to order all at once. For example, all the fitting, tee's, adapters that I'll need, tubing to run to the fridge and sump or are all these are included in the typhoon III. Again, thank you very much.

 

[ReefMeister2]

Here's your shopping list:

1) Typhoon III (with TDS meter)
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1TYPHOONIII

2) Add-on Storage tank
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/ADDSTORAGE

3) 2nd storage tank
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/PJT9203W

4) float valve
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/FV-14MA252

5) Tubing cutter
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/TUBECUTTER

6) Extra tubing (20 feet or more)
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/TUBING14

7) Safety clips (two dozen or so)
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/PR-LC0004

Important!
I almost forgot....get the 75 GPD version NOT the 100 GPD!
the difference is the rejection rate of the membrane

The following item is completely optional... if you choose to have it on hand instead of having to order it later
8) Replacement filters (after one year)
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/TPACK

 

[BMitch]

I read in another forum on this site that if you mention you're an RC member, you get a free float valve.

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Thanks Mitch, I read about that too. I'll email them and lets see what happen.

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Hey Kelvin, do I need a second pressure tank? Can one tank be enough to handle my reef tank and fridge. I have another question, when the ro/di unit goes to the controller then to the sump, does it first go to the pressure tank? I will also have a faucet. So, my total output from the ro/di unit will be to my sump, fridge and a faucet.

 

[ReefMeister2]

One tank will work fine as long as you are not using alot of water.

I started with only a single pressure tank years ago, but I didn't like it when I used water for the fish tank/water barrel (depleting the 3.2 gallon tank) and then not having water available for drinking. It took awhile for the RO unit to catchup.

Yes, the water goes into the tank first, for storage, and then fed to the Auto top off unit, fridge, etc.

prefilters --> RO membrane --> pressure tank --> fridge

The only difference is the water for the fish tank will go through the DI stage just before going to the AATOC unit:

prefilters --> RO membrane --> Pressure tank --> DI --> topoff


here is their instructions from the website:
http://static.zoovy.com/merchant/theh2oguru/Reefkeeper_Installation_Guide.pdf

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Another question I have. Sorry for asking too much, just want to be a little clear. To run the tube to the fridge, do I need one or two line if my fridge have an icemaker and water?

 

[ReefMeister2]

a single line feeds both icemaker and water dispensor at the same time.
One thing I forgot, you still need the little wieny filter for your fridge...it probably already has one in the back. It should be changed at least once a year. all it does is remove any "off taste" that may be left over from water that is stored in the pressure tank for any length of time.

Here is an example, but they can be purchased anywhere such as home depot, lowes, etc
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/PR-D2586C

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Thanks Kelvin, for all your help. I know I will come back to you once I start to put these things together. Do you have anybody out there that happen to have pictures of this kind of setup.

 

[ReefMeister2]

ahh, just noticed your occupation.

In that case you don't need anything pretty for your auto-topoff unit (unless you want it that way)

so this package should do the same thing as the Reefrelief, just not as nicely packaged:

http://www.autotopoff.com/products/DS1/index.htm


I like to reccomend the reefrelief because it is plug-n-play.
The link I sent you is a bit crude but a third of the cost.
both operate identically by hooking directly to your pressure tank.

float drops --> solenoid opens --> water enters --> float rises --> solenoid closes --> water stops

That's it.


I like to tinker quite a bit with electrical too, so I just ordered a wholed bunch of stuff from this site so I can make my own custom float switches:
http://www.aquahub.com/store/autotopoffcomp.html


Kevin

 

[jeffreylam1132]

Just curious if you don't mind me asking, which part of SoCal do you lived in?

 

[ReefMeister2]

Garden Grove,
right off the 22 frwy and Beach Blvd.


I have fellow hobbiests stop by all the time to trade/buy/etc

if you are curious and going to be in the area some time, just PM me a day or so ahead of time

 

[jeffreylam1132]

I will definitely drop by your place sometime to look at your setup and get an idea of how to set my up. Thanks for everything.