ro/di

Yes i love my typhoon 3. Came with a tds and psi meter. Everything you need to hook it up out of the box. They have excellent customer service as well. Its scary how much money I have wasted with sub par equipment. Trying to save a buck in this hobby most of the time works out to cost you more in the long run.

Mobi: Did the dirty word "canada" not scare you about your ro unit? ;)
 
I was concerned with that when first got mine. so I got 5 sets of replacement filters, and haven't changed them yet. I do flush the membrane on a regular basis, and it does help keep the TDS down. mine was making a 2 TDS so I flushed it and it went to making 0 again.
so to answer your question, maintenence is not really a factor. just get a good unit to begin with. this is one piece of equipment I wouldn't be without. it was well worth the money too.

Mobi:D
 
The recommended maintenance is changing out the DI when the TDS starts going up, and changing out the carbon filters every 6 months. The RO membrane is supposed to last around 3 years. For less heavy use, you can go a year between carbon replacements. That is what I have read. I believe the cost of replacing the filters if done every 6 months would come in around $60/year or so.

As I understand it, you want to make sure your RO membrane is efficient at normal home water pressure. The 75 gallon per day Dow FilmTec membrane removes 98% of the gunk in the water, allowing less to pass through to the DI resin than other membranes (other brands, or other "gallons per day"). The less stuff that makes it through to the DI resin, the longer it lasts (meaning lower maintenance costs).

Jack
 
FWIW, a smaller unit is all most people need. I have a 50 gpd system and run a 125 and 75 with sumps and fuges, a 20, 10, and 5 gallon tank and still only filter water twice a week or so (unless I'm filling a 100 gallon rubbermaid tub to cover a bunch of rock-been filtering for three days straight;)). There has been discussion that some of the larger units (100 gpd, etc.) are less efficient than the 75 and lower).
 
BTW, brand means nothing when it comes to housings. The replacement filters are really all that matters. I have a cobbled together 6 stage, but use Dow membranes and airwaterice carbon blocks and sediment filters. Cheap and reliable. I think I've seen some posted over the last year where someone got a 6 stage from airwaterice for $100 or so. That being the case, you can't beat the price by building it yourself from used parts unless you can find cheap used parts. Just replacing the filters/membranes on a used system (I wouldn't trust a used systems filters, personally) runs almost $100 (two carbon blocks at $12.50, a sediment at $4, TFC membrane 50gpd $35, and DI resin at $30, but he DI resin will last for several changes depending on the size of bag). Like is mentioned above, the maintenance after the initial is not a biggie at all, though.
 
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/

They are highly recommended. Russ will take care of you. You might pay a little more... but not all RO/DI units are created equal. Look at their "premium" products. They have all see through cartridges and a pressure guage. Do yourself a favor and get a refillable DI cartridge. Also, pay attention to the RO membrane. You'll want one rated for 50psi and not go above ones rated more than 75gpd.

Another tip is to get yourself a BRUTE 32gal garbage can for water storage. Also, go ahead and pay the highway robbery price for the wheels to roll the garbage can around on. Get you a powerhead to keep the water moving too.
 
If you have a spare bathroom, the tub serves as an excellent rubbermaid tub storage unit (and overflow area). I store my Frankenstein in the tub with the rubbermaid 32 gal tub.

Man. Too much wine and typing is tough:D...
 
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