Ro/di

[Critter]

I was planning on buying my RO/DI unit this week, and the only question I have left is, do I want one of those 4.4gal pressurized tanks or not? I plan on using the ro/di in a 5 to 10gal container with kalk for top-off and also using this ro/di water for making salt for 5 to 10gal water changes. So i'm not sure if I need that pressurized tank or not?
Thanks

 

[ganomish]

I love me pressurized tank, but keep in mind the pressurized bladder inside takes up space, and basically it only creates a reserve of about 1/2. My 5 gallon tank, only gives me 2.5 gallons in a shot, then has to refill/repressurize.

Where they are awesome is that they usually come tiwh a small tap I installed in my utility room sink, so I can very easily top off my nanos with a pitcher very easily, rather than dealing with buckets of standing water. If you top off more than 1/2 galon or so at a time, you may not really use it that much.

I don't have an ATO, so it is all manual.

Just my 2cents
Fred

 

[bmkindig]

hey
i love my back up tank it's great for a quick start filling water buckets in a pinch and serves great for dual use(drinking water)i even have mine hooked up to my icemaker on the frig.

 

[rickyfins]

We have a pressure tank here too. We bought a single faucet for next to the regular water on the sink in the kitchen. I ran a T off of the line so we can use the RO for drinking water, cooking, and it makes the best coffee!!!!! Plus if you are running low on water and need some in a pinch it helps too! They are a nice addition to the setup.

I would recommend searching ebay as there are plenty of RO/DI units out there. Mine does something like 100gal per day and was purchase on ebay. The seller was filterdirect. Only reason I remember is because they were the only ones selling loose DI resin to refil the chamber.

That is a nice feature I love on my unit, there isn't a weird DI resin cartridge to buy, you just buy the loose DI resin and fill the cartridge up and its only $18 PLUS a few to ship and the bag has 3 changes worth of Resin in it!

 

[Critter]

I got my RO/DI finally (6 stage Aqua-safe maximus), and have it mounted... now to hook up the tubing... Its straight forward if I want to go from the 3 filters to the RO, to the DI, to the carbon then out. But was reading that I probably wouldn't like the DI for drinking, so would I go from the 3 filters to the RO, then split that, 1 tube going to the carbon and pressure tank then out to drinking and the other tube going to the DI and out to top off float? Do I need any special check valves for T-ing it off? Thanks

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9136469#post9136469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Critter
I got my RO/DI finally (6 stage Aqua-safe maximus), and have it mounted... now to hook up the tubing... Its straight forward if I want to go from the 3 filters to the RO, to the DI, to the carbon then out. But was reading that I probably wouldn't like the DI for drinking, so would I go from the 3 filters to the RO, then split that, 1 tube going to the carbon and pressure tank then out to drinking and the other tube going to the DI and out to top off float? Do I need any special check valves for T-ing it off? Thanks

For drinking water I say not after the DI.
I would talk to them the web Site here is the link.
http://reverse-osmosis-water-filter.ca/aqua-safe-maximus-max-reverse-osmosis-water-filter-995076.htm
They have 24/7 help I see.

I have a 50 gpd R/O-DI with no tank and a boost pump.
What water is the from the tap is it city or well?
Does the it have a gauge what is the pressure on the R/O unit say? If not please get one to put on it so it will help tell you if filters need changed also.
I am asking because I have a well and the pressure is 30-50psi it not keeping 50psi all the time to make R/O work full output all the time.
If it not 50 psi and up it will not work at full output and waste water for you. That is why I got a boost pump from Purely H2O that keeps the pressure up 60-70psi all the time and my output in more they the rated 50gpd say 60-65 gpd and the time cut by 1/3 to fill my 25 gallon tub.
I talked all the sponsors here on RC of R/O units and they said you need a 50psi and up all the time to make the Membrane work 100 %.
Just letting all know to help!

 

[Critter]

That's good info to know for sure, I will have to keep my eye on the pressure, it reads 50psi currently, but will watch for dips. I'm off to HD today, to get some ball valves for shut offs at strategic locations and a check-valve to go between the RO drinking and RO/DI, this will keep the DI only heading to my tank. I'm really stoked about hooking this unit up. The odd thing is, I've done PVC and copper plumbing, this is the first time for me and these little hoses and quick connects... I'll be impressed if they don't leak, they really don't look like much. lol

 

[Critter]

0 TDS out of the DI side of the unit. woohoo! Still have some hookups to make to frig etc... and had to order the check-valve online cause HD didn't carry them.. But all in all, the Aqua-Safe RO/DI unit is awesome. NO leeks other then snugging a few of my hand tightened connections and all drips stopped. Once I get my bucket of DI full I will test the RO side. Actually looking forward to water changes lol.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9152152#post9152152 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Critter
0 TDS out of the DI side of the unit. woohoo! Still have some hookups to make to frig etc... and had to order the check-valve online cause HD didn't carry them.. But all in all, the Aqua-Safe RO/DI unit is awesome. NO leeks other then snugging a few of my hand tightened connections and all drips stopped. Once I get my bucket of DI full I will test the RO side. Actually looking forward to water changes lol.

That is good news.
You will find that the big box stores do not carry 1/4 tubing fitting.
Did you check the LFS in the area that sell R/O's?
I know That fish place and Foster and Smith has fittings.
It is with all things new you see and do it.
Same as with setting up a saltwater tank the first time what is all this!
Did it say to run the unit for atime as 2 hours to get all the membrane cleared out from the factory coating to keep it for drying out?
Check make sure the auto shutoff valve working ok I had a bad one that will not shutoff and the factory gave me a new one.
It is bad if all you drink is R/O.
Because it takes all the trace elements out that all living things need to live.when you drink some R/O it will taste flat as distilled water.

 

[Critter]

RO = 12, DI = 0. I put ball valves on the ro and di exits, so I can shut down the system so the auto shutoff appears to be working. I got the check valves online at A-I-R - W-A-T-E-R - I-C-E. HD had everything I needed except the check valve, but they had all the ball valves, couplers, unions etc, even the plastic to copper union I need for the frig. The RO is just for the frige for the ice maker and water dispencer so no worries on amount of intake Actually our well water has a TDS of around 112 so from what I hear that isn't too bad to begin with... this is why I went with this Aqua-safe unit, I was pretty sure it could hand the low TDS to begin with. The only thing I remember it saying was to dump the pressure tank once which cleans it out, which I did. Mixing my first batch of DI salt water for a water change today.. :rollface: and making my second bucket for my kalk.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9154855#post9154855 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishtk75
That is good news.
You will find that the big box stores do not carry 1/4 tubing fitting.
Did you check the LFS in the area that sell R/O's?
I know That fish place and Foster and Smith has fittings.
It is with all things new you see and do it.
Same as with setting up a saltwater tank the first time what is all this!
Did it say to run the unit for atime as 2 hours to get all the membrane cleared out from the factory coating to keep it for drying out?
Check make sure the auto shutoff valve working ok I had a bad one that will not shutoff and the factory gave me a new one.
It is bad if all you drink is R/O.
Because it takes all the trace elements out that all living things need to live.when you drink some R/O it will taste flat as distilled water.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9155534#post9155534 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Critter
RO = 12, DI = 0. I put ball valves on the ro and di exits, so I can shut down the system so the auto shutoff appears to be working. I got the check valves online at A-I-R - W-A-T-E-R - I-C-E. HD had everything I needed except the check valve, but they had all the ball valves, couplers, unions etc, even the plastic to copper union I need for the frig. The RO is just for the frige for the ice maker and water dispencer so no worries on amount of intake Actually our well water has a TDS of around 112 so from what I hear that isn't too bad to begin with... this is why I went with this Aqua-safe unit, I was pretty sure it could hand the low TDS to begin with. The only thing I remember it saying was to dump the pressure tank once which cleans it out, which I did. Mixing my first batch of DI salt water for a water change today.. :rollface: and making my second bucket for my kalk.

look for the bulk DI media refills kits that is the way to go. pefilled DI fillers cost more. And filters and carbon at AWI and purly H2O
time your output now and then to see if its working ok 100gpd 15 min's for a gallon. Get a gallon bottle put output tube a time it.