Ro/di

[Wd40]

okay if anyone wouldnt mind explaining this to me it would be greatly appreciated!
1. If an RO/DI is rated for 75 gpd, does that mean its gonna produce that much no mater what, or if ur float valve is off then it should stop the flow?
2. Do u need a holding tank for the freshwater?
I see alot of people have these, i was always under the assumption u ran it straight to some type of float valve?

Thanx for the help!!!

 

[aquaman67]

The 75 GPD rating is for the optimal water pressure and optimal water temperature in a 24 hour period. The float valve has nothing to do with it. Cold water and lower pressure will make less water.

You can use a Brute rubbermaid trash can to hold the RO/DI water. You can install a float valve to shut the RO/DI off when it gets full.

You don't have to use a float valve. I used to use 5 gallon jugs. It's nice not to have to watch the jug for overflows.

 

[RokleM]

Buckeye Field Supply has a very handy calculator on their site. In short, you can input temp, PSI, and membrane, and get an idea of what your output will look like.

For example (all based on 75 GPD filmtec membrane) 60PSI/60F gets you about 66 GPD. I was running at 40PSI/60F making ~41GPD, added a booster pump for 80PSI/60F and now run 92GPD

As you see, there are a few major variables that will give you drastically different results.

 

[pbaldwin]

One other thing that you want to keep in mind it is suboptimal to run an RO/DI in short bursts. You will get longer membrane life and cleaner water if you run it for longer periods of time.

So you will get better results running your RO into a reservoir, like a brute container, and then running your tank top off from that container. Only having your RO kick in when the container is like half empty or so.