RO Membrane Life Span

echopiece

Member
How long should my RO membrane last? I purchased a 75 GPD, 4 stage unit 6 years ago exactly. Now granted, I only produce about 5 to 6 gallons of water a week. I have replaced my mechanical filter, carbon and Di resin 4-5 times within that period but have never replaced my RO membrane. My TDS meter is still reading zero on the outgoing water. I'm on a municipal water service and the incoming TDS ranges from 90-110.

Is 6 years abnormal? Could I have a faulty TDS meter? I suppose I could have my TDS checked by my LFS, but I was just curious to see how long other folks RO membranes have lasted?
 
If TDS is the only thing you look at then keep your filter.
The problem with RO filters is that they waste water because they have to dump some water down the drain for each gallon of purified water produced. As they get older they waste more and more water for each gallon of good water produced. You should check how much water is used for each gallon of water made.
I replace mine every 2 years which is the manufactures recommendation.
 
If TDS is the only thing you look at then keep your filter.
The problem with RO filters is that they waste water because they have to dump some water down the drain for each gallon of purified water produced. As they get older they waste more and more water for each gallon of good water produced. You should check how much water is used for each gallon of water made.
I replace mine every 2 years which is the manufactures recommendation.
Yes I agree, they are cheap enough to replace that often. I'll just replace it for safe measure.
 
If TDS is the only thing you look at then keep your filter.
The problem with RO filters is that they waste water because they have to dump some water down the drain for each gallon of purified water produced. As they get older they waste more and more water for each gallon of good water produced. You should check how much water is used for each gallon of water made.
I replace mine every 2 years which is the manufactures recommendation.


Membranes commonly last 2 to 5 years - commonly longer.
 
Ive had mine since 2007 it produces 4 TDS right out of the RO. City water is at about 120 TDS. Don't plan on changing mine until TDS goes up to about 15
 
Mine is 7 years old, output 0-1 tds from 232 tds well water

Just bought a dual probe tds meter, was using handheld

I set my waste a 3:1
 
Remember there are TWO typical symptoms of a membrane gone bad:

1. The rejection rate declines (let me know if you'd like a refresher on how to calculate the rejection rate).

2. Production of RO water is too slow, when considering your water pressure and water temperature. Most people don't have factory spec water temperature (77F) and factory spec water pressure (50 psi for Filmtec membranes). But how do you know how many gpd your membrane should produce given the temp and pressure you do have? Use our calculator.

Russ
 
4 year old 150gpd membrane at 100 psi..... Currently 467 in & 6 tds out! I'm thinking that I'll get another couple of years out of it. Make sure that you change your sediment and especially the carbon pre-filters out on a regular basis. I change mine every 6 months and make approximately 200 to 300 gallons a month!
 
I have a question. I bought a used filter a bout 5 yrs ago so unknown usage on the membrane. Anyway onto my question. I have well water that veries form. 110 to 156. My output before di is from 5 to 15? Is it time to replace the membrane? Filters have been changed twice I have ran an estimated 200 gall since last filter change. I usually get about 4 gallons an hour and waste isn't a problem for me. Thanks for any help.
 
I have a question. I bought a used filter a bout 5 yrs ago so unknown usage on the membrane. Anyway onto my question. I have well water that veries form. 110 to 156. My output before di is from 5 to 15? Is it time to replace the membrane? Filters have been changed twice I have ran an estimated 200 gall since last filter change. I usually get about 4 gallons an hour and waste isn't a problem for me. Thanks for any help.

From our FAQ's: A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1,000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called "œprefilters" because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the "œin" port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. "œpermeate") more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane's advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin "œdirty" water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin "“ remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don't forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
B.H. Since your on the line I have a question.
I have the inline 3 meter and you had me set it up a while ago so I believe the #2 is coming out of the RO and into the Di?
When I first run it #2 is as high as 30-ppm until I flush and run it a good while till it settles down to 2-3 ppm. I don't recall having to flush and run so much or long to get to 2-3 ppm is this normal or am I needing an Ro membrane ?
In is 90-100 and out is 0
I did notice with fairly new prefilter and carbon that there we unusually brown so I changed them. I left the color changing Di and it is only 1/4 used (color change)
 
B.H. Since your on the line I have a question.
I have the inline 3 meter and you had me set it up a while ago so I believe the #2 is coming out of the RO and into the Di?
When I first run it #2 is as high as 30-ppm until I flush and run it a good while till it settles down to 2-3 ppm. I don't recall having to flush and run so much or long to get to 2-3 ppm is this normal or am I needing an Ro membrane ?
In is 90-100 and out is 0
I did notice with fairly new prefilter and carbon that there we unusually brown so I changed them. I left the color changing Di and it is only 1/4 used (color change)

What you're seeing is the result of TDS Creep. Here's some data from 2 test runs with a 75 gpd membrane. You can see that the RO water TDS is very high to start out with, but comes down to where it should be in about 60 seconds.

TDSCreep_zps2523e7a5.png


Russ
 
This is what a DI bypass is intended to address - you leave this three way valve open (sending RO water to a drain) for the (previously-timed) duration when you manually kick an RODI on. Then you switch it and send the RO water to the DI.
3-wayvalve_zps9e9fda10.png


Russ
 
Thanks you.
Mine seems to be taking longer and higher TDS then usual but it could be me. I didn't chart it.
Never seen the DI bypass but it makes sense as another flush.
Thanks Again.
 
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