RO water filters

I use 40 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans to mix my water in. I think those are more for drinking water. There have been some very good threads about RO/DI units on RC. I bought mine off ebay but have seen better units at about the same price at specialty water shops.
Fred
 
Thanks guys, will look into them. I use a rubber maid tub as well.... works like a hot darn. Are people still adding in Prime or a chloramine breaker to there water after doing the RO/DI just to be on the safe side or is there no need ?
 
I have an older Aquasafe system which looks the same and have not had any issues with it. I hooked the DI water to the storage tank so I always have ro/di water on tap.
 
Are people still adding in Prime or a chloramine breaker to there water after doing the RO/DI just to be on the safe side or is there no need ?
 
RonD-- I read a small thread recently regarding this. You might be able to locate it with a search. I do not add anything back to my RO/DI water. I guess if the carbon block was full it is possible to have a chlorine compound left over. If I remember from my fresh water days a couple days with a powerhead using air mixing the water causes the chlorine to dissipate.
Fred
 
I use that same aquasafe unit but I took off the 6th stage, which is some kind of coconut filter for taste, I have a TDS of 0-1
 
You don't need to use prime or anything after the RO/DI. Chloramine will damage the RO membrane, so if chloramine is even getting to the RO part, you have trouble. The carbon block filter is what gets the chloramine, and it is recommended that this be replaced at least yearly. The purlyh20 link above is to a unit with only one carbon block filter and it costs more than the typhoon unit from airwaterice that has two of them (1 micron and 10 micron, I think). You can check out Walter at airwaterice at http://www.airwaterice.com/. I have the Typhoon I. Very reasonably priced and excellent service. Depending on where you set up your unit, you may be able to run the RO/DI output directly to your rubbermaid tub, and use the float valve + auto shutoff setup to automatically keep that filled. Unless you want to use the RO portion for Drinking water, I'd forget about the smallish water tank that comes with some units.

Jack
 
crumble top - i have heard some no so good things about airwater and ice. how was your experience?

also just cause it has two carbon blocks and costs less doesn't mean it is a better unit (that is the way i took your post). i'd have to look through what comes w/ it and weight out the items. i'd prolly still ahve to go w/ purelyh2o as bryan's service as products are matched by no one

either way i'm sure we can get some pretty dang pure water from a lot of units. glad that others are posting more sites for RonD to search and read up on.

Lunchbucket
 
I have the Aqua-Safe 6 stage with the pressure tank and bar faucet. It's been up and running for over a year now, and I love it!
 
My experience with airwaterice has been great. They are actually highly recommended by others on reefcentral as well. I'm sure the purelyh2o unit is probably fine. RonD asked about chloramine, and IMO 2 carbon block filters before the RO membrane allow for 100% chloramine removal, preserving the life of the membrane.
 
Sorry

Sorry

2 carbon blocks do not ensure 100% chloramine removal.

Catalitic carbon is needed for this.

Im sure you only know what you have been told so please dont take this as a persona attack.

2 carbon blocks will work better towards the goal of removal but if you know that you have chloramine you should configure your system from the start correctly.
 
Yes, you're right that I just know what I have been told/learned from reading. I was under the impression that 2 carbon blocks in series would remove more chloramine than 1 and thus do a better job of preserving the RO membrane. I apologize if this is incorrect.

Jack
 
Jack

Jack

Its not that your incorrect bud, 2 would essentially work better than 1 due to a higher exposure. The fact is however that the chloramine needs to be reacted out of the water and the best case scenario would be 2 catalitic carbons in a row. You could also go from a carbon block to a catalitic bed which would work better than 2 blocks. Im sure Walter would recommend the same thing knowing in advance that you actualy had a chloramine issue.
We custom design systems for chloramine apps. And are in the middle of designing a system specificaly for Chloramine. When we talk to our customers over the phone we ask if this is an issue and suggest they find out for sure before purchasing so that we can configure the system a little more specific to that problem :)

Have a great day!
 
purelyh2o--I use a city water supply that I'm sure adds chlorine to the water. I was under the impression that chloramine was a byproduct of chlorine. Please give a quick and EASY chemistry lesson (I've been out of college too long to think very hard). One more thing, was I correct in stating a few days of aeration would remove either of these compounds? It would be too late to save your RO membrane.
Thanks
Fred
 
Chloramine and chlorine are two different things. Some utilities have chosen to add ammonia as well as chlorine, called chloramination, to help battle disinfectant byproducts such as trihalomethanes and haloacetic acids, both are suspected carcinogenic or cancer causing compounds.
Catalytic carbon seems to be the best available technology for its removal at this time.
 
Fred_J

Fred_J

AZDesertRat handled that question correctly as usual :)

Basicly as a city becomes larger the need for more chlorine becomes an issue as it reacts out of the water to gas in time and is unable to properly treat the water further down the line.

The addition of ammonia to the chlorine allows it to stay in liquid form longer and thereby reach the outlets further down the line without having to increase the level of chlorine too much which would be seriouly uncomfortable for those closer to the source :)


Bryan Crenshaw
 
2 carbon blocks do not ensure 100% chloramine removal.
Click to expand...

I have just been thru this topic with a 3 year old unit I am looking into setting up a better one. The topic of chloramines came up which made me test my ro water. Well with a crappy red sea kit I found my ro water tested for ammonia. It was not that high it was not zero but not actually at .25 somewhere in the middle with the lousy match the color chart. But It definitely was not zero. This was done with 2 BRAND NEW carbon blocks a 5 and a 1 micron. If I am not mistaken the ammonia readings represent the chloramine getting thru everything, well some of it at least. With Bryans help I have decided to go with this array for my next ro setup.

10 micron prefilter 5 micron carbon a catalytic carbon then double ro with a pump. Double ro and pump because of the cold water here up in snow land.
 
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