<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11083040#post11083040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
I have a 14 gallon pressure tank myself. I store RO only water in the pressure tank and have a tee coming out of it so one side feeds my drinking water, ice maker and other RO uses and the other side feeds the DI so I can make over 10 gallons of DI at a shot without waiting around.
I keep five 5 gallon drinking water bottles full of DI all the time so I can do water changes and topoffs and then refill them from the DI unit.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11084407#post11084407 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarkD40
SSalty,
Why on earth would it not be O.K. to drink RO/DI water? I mean jeez man....it's WATER. If your TDS goes from 265 to 5 after RO and you have no problem drinking it then why would removing the remaining 5 ppm of solids make it unsafe to drink? It may not have much flavor but it is WATER! Several bottled waters on the market are just tap water run through an RO/DI filter.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11083740#post11083740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AZDesertRat
Correct. I removed the line from the membrane directly to the DI so the RO feeds the pressure tank. On the line from the pressure tank I installed a tee and ball valve so it can go to the domestic uses or to the MaxCap dual DI system. The down side is slightly higher RO TDS due to TDS creep in the pressure tank but with the step up to the 14 gallon tank I don't short cycle as often as with a 3 or 5 gallon pressure tank. I also make it a point to completely drain the pressure tank at least every two weeks or so by filling up several water bottles at a time so I get a complete fresh low TDS tank of water to start out with again. It keeps the TDS creep to a minimum that way.