Rock cooking, it does work.

Just got home to take a rest and was checking up on the tank. To my surprise my ORP is 387 and not injecting ozone. I use an ozonizer but have it on a controller at about 365. This is a first for me to have the ORP go above what my controller is set at. Never happened before I went BB and cooked my rock.
 
It's a wise man's move. ;)

Erik,
Can't wait to see pics.
Take pics of you adding rock in phases too.
That is always fun. :)
Sean
 
I've got a quick question. Has anyone attempted to cook rock with the lights on? Just curious. It would seem in my case where I have an invasive caulerpa species growing on it that I could take advantage of its ability to pull out the phosphate probably better than any bacteria would be able to do. The swish to remove the detritus plus the harvesting of caulerpa would do the same in the long run wouldn't it. My reason for doing it this way is I have quite a few rocks with mushrooms, and zoo's on them and don't want to lose them.

I've tried leaving the lights off with some of my rock in a tub for 2+ months (before I read up on the cooking of rocks) and still found some traces of the algae present anyways. Plus, don't most caulerpa spread spores that wouldn't be affected by lights off?

Just curious.
 
If you leave the lights on you are not changing it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.

It isn't enough to just make it dark, you have to swish the rocks and do the waterchanges as well.

hth,
Sean
 
I agree on the need for water changes and swishing of rocks, I guess my question is as simple as, if I do everything aside from turning off the lights will I achieve the same result?

thanks

vince
 
quote:Originally posted by ctreefer
Could you elaborate a little more? What is it about the lights that messes up cooking rocks?


quote:Originally posted by SeanT
If you leave the lights on you are not changing it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.


I can't say it any better or clearer than what SeanT has stated.

somepeople with encrusting organisms that they want to keep have 1) chipped/cut them off of the rock and kept them separate while cooking their rocks, 2) sold/traded those rocks to the LPS and got new different rock and then cooked that 3) cooked all rock except the few pieces that had stuff they wanted to keep.

If you want to cook your rock those are your choices, the rock has to be kept in the dark.
 
Yes, you can leave the lights on and achieve the same results, eventually.

If you leave lights on, the cooking process may take considerably longer, unless you are very diligent about removing the algae as it grows.

By keeping the lights on, you are, actually, adding a bit of nutrients to your system. The algae uses light, plus CO2 to make carbohydrates. Generally, with rock cooking we are looking to export nutrients only, not add them.
 
But doesn't the algae use the carbohydrates for growth along with the phosphate and nitrate. By removing the growth along with swishing the rocks in freshly made salt water according to the method of 'cooking rocks' shouldn't this instead speed up the process?

I'm not trying to start any great debates, I just want to understand this better and see if I can make it work for my situation. :)

Wildthing, I've thought about removing some of my coral laden rock that has this invasive caulerpa species on it and trading it in for some credit at my LFS, but I live in fear that one day I'll show up and he'll be so PO'd at me that I'll never be able to get anything from him again. The mushrooms and zoo's have become the problem here. I don't want to kill them either.

thanks
 
Zoos will live for many months in the tank in the dark,and rebound rapidly when exposed to light again.I can only guess that mushrooms would react similarly.
 
Cooking dried out previously live rock?

Cooking dried out previously live rock?

Hey all, I've got the opportunity to get my hands on about 100 lb of base rock (real reef rock, not hirocks, or agrocrete, etc). The previous owner tore his tank down because he's moving. The rock is dry and has been stored in a bin.

I think cooking the rock would be a good idea since there's sure to be plenty of dead organisms deep in the rock.

My question is: Since I'm not actually trying to retain any life (there is nothing living ), could I cook the rocks in RO water only? I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work but wanted to get some opinions.

Thanks!
Tyler
 
ctreefer said:
But doesn't the algae use the carbohydrates for growth along with the phosphate and nitrate. By removing the growth along with swishing the rocks in freshly made salt water according to the method of 'cooking rocks' shouldn't this instead speed up the process?

It all comes down to making sure you export more organic material than is created.

By keeping the rock in the dark, you perform water changes, and siphon off dead algae and bacterial detritus to remove organics.

With the lights on, you perform water changes, siphon off bacterial detritus and remove live and dead algae to export organic material. I suppose if you are really, really diligent about removing algae, it could make the removal of all organic material faster.

One other thing... If you have a pest algae on your rocks, which thrives in low-nutrient environments, like that pink fuzzy stuff, you won't be able to get rid of it if you keep the lights on.
 
If you cook it right then aiptasia will be gone.
If you like, you can also easily kalk the aiptasia while in the
'cooking' bins.
 
thanks weatherman.

I'm thinking about trying both methods. I've got plenty of rock that doesn't have corals on them as well. I'm going to set up two systems. One will be the proper way with no light, while the other will be via one 65w PC on my 10gal nano.

Here's a quick thought of the setup.

10gal tank with 4 med-large rocks with some corals and algae covering them. 65w pc bulb. 1-maxijet 1200 and 1 maxi 400 equiv. bare bottom. lights on 12hrs day with rear refugium containing additional 1.5 gal and chaeto for more export.

50 gal tub with 20gal water with 4 similar sized rocks, no corals with no light. 1 aquaclear 802ph and 1 maxijet 1200. bare bottom.

water in both systems will receive a 50% water change with RO asw prior to running experiment so water quality should be similar.

below is the method for cooking rocks taken from SeanT's earlier post:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turnsq brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish.
9. Cover the tub. Remember, we want total darkness.
10. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
11. Wait.
12. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again unti the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detrius is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.

My only question at this point is how much of a shock will my mushrooms,zoos receive by being placed in a 100% water changed system? I'm wondering if I only replace half, or 2/3 if that would be enough, assuming I remove all the gunk on the bottom of the tub/tank each time.

The only other thing is when I create my 3 buckets of rinsing water, I will clean one systems rocks in sequence, and then the others and vice versa during the next cleaning to try and maintain some equality between the two. The only thing I can figure is this may create a lag on the results of 3-4 days since the second system will receive a rinse in dirtier water than the first during that first rinse.

Aside from this I will be removing any algae that grows in the 10gal nano during this process.

Any thoughts? Sorry for the long post.....


vince
 
Vince,
I understand your concern with your shrooms and zo's.
I must say that this is a method for rock...not corals.
I did have a few mushrooms survive the WHOLE process, in the dark, for several months.
As for the 100% shock, I don't really see it happening if you heat your water to tank temp and use the same sg each time.
Heck, Calfo is an advocate of 100% water changes as a norm.

Sean
 
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