RODI Filter help

SeeCrabRun

New member
I've had my RODI for 2 years now and I haven't replaced the filters. I have a TDS meter running after the membrane and after the final stage. It has crept up to 1 after the final stage now, but I also know the filters have an age limit that is probably long passed?

I bought my entire system from Buckeye Hydro, just went with an already made package.

I only filter about 60 gallons A MONTH, and keep a 20 gallon reservoir. I know our water doesn't have fluoride, but I'm unsure about anything else, or how to check it. I know the TDS of incoming water is usually only 40, which I believe is low for the average household?

I had to have a restrictor valve put on the house water in the spring and now my PSI running through the membrane is 50-60, it used to be 70-90.

I'd really love some help picking out replacement parts and any other accessories necessary. I'm not sure what the age limit is for the different filters or how to know exactly when they should be changed. I considered getting one of those color changing DI cartridges to take some of the guess work out.

Thanks for any help!
 
I took my pressure gauge and hooked it straight to the house.... Now I know that my psi is 61. I then took the guage and reinstalled it after my carbon. Now if that guage drops below 61 I know a filter is getting clogged, Id first change the cheap sediment filter. If it's still below house pressure I'll change carbon.
 
Oh it's about the same as the house pressure.

What I meant that happened was I used to have crazy good pressure and I know that works the filter harder, but that's a good thing for water output. Then we had to add a restictor to the house because our pipes were starting to fail and now the house has 60psi. The RODI has 50-60 depending if anything else is running or sometimes the temperature seems to cause it to fluctuate some.
 
From my experience, if your not getting a solid 60 psi your not going to get as good results. But we can and need to do a few other things aswell. I'd first get new sediment and carbon. Well go over microns in a little. After installing new sediment and carbon take note of the psi... This is your standard pressure if it goes below that psi in the next 6-9 months (maybe more) it's time to change even with that incredible 40 TDs water your getting :). Sediment takes out debris. Carbon is for chlorine. Chlorine kills membranes. Do you know about microns?
 
After new prefilters, we would then calculate your membrane TDs rejection. Once we've see your % we'll know if u need a new membrane. You want around 98 99% rejection if not you will exhaust your Di resin faster then you want.
 
With that low of TDS in the feed water, I'm not surprised your filters have lasted this long.

In general, RO membranes only need replacing after the production of permeate slows way down.

If there is more than zero TDS in the permeate, then the DI needs replaced. I would just replace the sediment and carbon filters at the same time, since they are cheap and you will be getting out your wrenches anyway.
 
You need new sediment and carbon filters first.Then we test the membrane. If your membrane isn't working correct you'll need a new one or your Di resin will exhaust faster then you want. Can you test the TDs of the water coming out of the membrane?
 
Yes I have a dual in line meter. I have it hooked on the output for the membrane and then the output for the DI. The output on the membrane is usually 7. It used to be 0 when I first got the system, so then the DI didn't really have anything to do I guess.
 
At some point down the road I was told that when my membrane TDS was 10 percent of my tap water it was time. It could take 2-3 years to get to that point. Changing out the sediment and carbon about every 6 months will help prolong your membrane. If you have chlorimines you'll need a specific carbon block.
 
Last edited:
Do you have the exact TDs of the house? 40?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20160831-103444.jpg
    Screenshot_20160831-103444.jpg
    39.3 KB · Views: 4
Back
Top