Rodi plumbing advise

sasq40

New member
Ok trying to get everything back together after the move and crash. Setting up the rodi system and tying in drinking water. This is how I have it plumbed in right now, anything that I have wrong or should be doing different. I have the spectrapure cspdi-60-mf and added in a pressure tank from Culligan. Here's a diagram of what I got so for. Only thing I'm thinking of doing different is adding another check valve before the di(or maybe moving the one that comes from the well supply) will also be adding in a ato system of some kind to my sump when I get that setup
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They are usually plumbed in before the RO membrane, as drinking water that pure will remove minerals from your body. The pre filter will remove the larger particulate matter and you carbon block will remove most torins and odors. This leaves many minerals your body needs. There people that argue it both ways, so it is up to you. A lot depends on your source water.
 
They are usually plumbed in before the RO membrane, as drinking water that pure will remove minerals from your body.

This is incorrect. Drinking DI water will not harm you. It's just expensive to make and tastes bad by not tasting like anything.

On the plumbing, I would add a check valve before the DI, but for the reason of if you don't, you could 'waste' DI water backfeeding into the drinking side.

Is there a reason you have your tank so far downstream?
 
This is incorrect. Drinking DI water will not harm you. It's just expensive to make and tastes bad by not tasting like anything.



On the plumbing, I would add a check valve before the DI, but for the reason of if you don't, you could 'waste' DI water backfeeding into the drinking side.



Is there a reason you have your tank so far downstream?
The di water isn't connected to the drinking water at all, other then no check valve, which the only reason I haven't got one yet is a didn't have any more lol. What do you mean by the tank so far down stream? Don't think I could have it any closer. Here's the setup right now till we get the old hot water tank moved out when we redo the boiler

Currently not making di resin since the catasphropic tank crash
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What do you mean by the tank so far down stream?


I would have the pressure tank plumbed in around the TDS meter in the top left of your diagram. This way the DI would also get pressure across it.

On my other comment, your DI water can backfeed into your system right now. There is no check valve preventing it.
 
I would have the pressure tank plumbed in around the TDS meter in the top left of your diagram. This way the DI would also get pressure across it.



On my other comment, your DI water can backfeed into your system right now. There is no check valve preventing it.
So you think have the pressure tank before my di filters? My idea not having it was there was so salt water production would never interfere with being able to drink

Yeah going to address the check valve, like I said I'm not making rodi water and plan a check valve there, just don't have one at the moment.

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I believe that having the pressure tank before the drinking/DI split will approve DI production; however, I can't find data to back that up right now.
 
Just make sure to fill the RODI holding tank all at once. Don't leave the RO running to the RODI tank constantly. Flush the membrane and then fill the RODI tank.
 
This is incorrect. Drinking DI water will not harm you. It's just expensive to make and tastes bad by not tasting like anything.

This is partly true. You are correct that pure DI water will probably not harm you. However, most ion-exchange resins used for deionization are not food grade. Therefore, the RO-DI water they produce will be contaminated with plastics and quarternary amines that leach off the resins. These can have an unpleasant taste and smell and may not be completely innocuous, health-wise. Therefore you are better off drinking the RO water and using the RO-DI for your aquarium.
 
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