RODI Questions

[Reefing102]

Alright guys, gonna sound like a total newb when it comes to this but with RODI, I am. I currently have a spectrapure 90 gpd 4 stage. My current set up is incredibly basic. It’s connected directly to a spare washer hook up that I just turn on when I need and off when I don’t. The issue is this hook up is old and the ball valve (or whatever it is) no longer seals (resulting in a slow but steady leak), so water is constantly running through the RODI set up. Obviously this isn’t good for the filter media, so my question is, without replacing the old valve (it appears to be welded on as it’s metal (not copper, steel maybe?)

Is there away to leave the water running and then have it stop at a different valve (if that’s a thing?)

Or depending on the work involved, maybe try to automate it even more where I have a float valve in my RODI storage tank that some how automatically triggers it to fill and shut off when needed (without having the water run constantly?)

Thoughts? Confused? I don’t know, it’s late

 

[griss]

Shane, can you give me some pics of your setup? One of the things in this hobby I AM good at is RODI

 

[griss]

Oh, you don’t want the float valve in the water storage determining when it runs and not…TDS creep is a real thing.

New Ro-di system & aquascape questions

Hey everyone. I’m not new to the hobby, but new vs old school. I’ve had a fish saltwater aquarium for 25 yrs and another 10yrs a few years prior. I’m replacing my 55 fish aquarium to a bio cube Reef system. I’ve actually started a separate thread to track my progress on it. My old aquarium...

forums.reefcentral.com

 

[griss]

There are no steel water lines. Rust. I am going to assume it is a copper line with a soldered on valve.
What you can do with zero skills depends. Is there room to place a new valve if you saw the old one off. You can get SharkBite valves you simply stick on a pipe. No soldering. You would have to shut the water off in the house. You need a clean section of pipe to install it.
or
Put a new valve past the one that is leaking. You can get push to connect valves that go into the plastic line to the RODI at HD

I learned to do plumbing early. Our first house had iron pipe and it would get holes and leak all the time. Also the lead water tank with the side arm burner.

Sharkbite is awesome for those of us not comfortable with soldering

 

[Misled]

This one. They are called Guest valves and HD and lowes carry them.

 

[JohnL]

Put a new valve past the one that is leaking. You can get push to connect valves that go into the plastic line to the RODI at HD

This

 

[Reefing102]

I’ll have to get some pics when I get home.

If they’re copper, that’d be news to me as it doesn’t look like copper (or even oxidized copper) but that could be the age as well. These pipes are gray.

Oh, you don’t want the float valve in the water storage determining when it runs and not…TDS creep is a real thing.

New Ro-di system & aquascape questions

Hey everyone. I’m not new to the hobby, but new vs old school. I’ve had a fish saltwater aquarium for 25 yrs and another 10yrs a few years prior. I’m replacing my 55 fish aquarium to a bio cube Reef system. I’ve actually started a separate thread to track my progress on it. My old aquarium...

forums.reefcentral.com

Good to note. So it seems the best (and easiest) for my scenario may be to connect another valve after the current valve. Super beginner question, Do they make threaded PVC that would connect to a washer hook up?

I may have to get a TDS Creep bypass too

 

[Reefing102]

Something like this

Washer fittings are like garden hose connections. You screw them on and they are sealed by a rubber washer. The same threading used for garden hoses and utility sinks.

Five types of pipe—PEX, PVC, ABS, copper, and galvanized—are commonly found in houses these days. The first 3 are plastic.
Galvanized pipe may appear grey but the connections are threaded. It might appear "welded" if some kind of pipe sealing compound used on the threads has hardened. That would be really old stuff.

It’s likely galvanized. My house was built in 1935 and I just replaced a lot of the cast iron drain pipes with PVC.

And that’s perfect. Then I could put an inline guest valve and perhaps one of the TDS creep bypass valves. Would I need both or could I get away with just the bypass?

Thinking out loud, I think I have the adaptor already, I may just need to addd a guest valve and perhaps the bypass valve too.


A list for my own future reference

Mur-lok Garden Hose/Utility Sink Adapter

Two Sizes Available: 1/4" Push Connect x 3/4" Garden Hose 3/8" Push Connect x 3/4" Garden Hose Mur-lok RO fittings are the only RO fittings that feature dual EPDM O-rings to ensure a straight leak free fit. These high-quality American made fittings are constructed with FDA approved...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

TDS Creep Bypass

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[kharmaguru]

These pipes are gray.

Could be lead. If a magnet won't stick to the pipe - lead, if it does - galvanized.

 

[wvned]

I have never worried about TDS creep. My filter goes to zero in about 10 seconds. The amount of water made in 10 seconds is nothing in the 50 gallons It makes each time.

 

[Reefing102]

Sounds good. I may just get a guest valve and call it a day then see how my tds measures up

 

[griss]

Yeah, I was blowing through DI like it was nothing before I learned about TDS creep. I was replacing it every month or two

Since making my own bypass, my DI lasts about a year.

 

[wvned]

Yeah, I was blowing through DI like it was nothing before I learned about TDS creep. I was replacing it every month or two

Since making my own bypass, my DI lasts about a year.

I do not seem to have that problem? I run 2 dual TDS meters. When my filter starts the water coming from the membrane is 7-9 which drops to 2-3 in about 10-20 seconds. I need to refill DI resin about 4 times a year. I could automate that but never felt I needed to.

 

[griss]

I do not seem to have that problem? I run 2 dual TDS meters. When my filter starts the water coming from the membrane is 7-9 which drops to 2-3 in about 10-20 seconds. I need to refill DI resin about 4 times a year. I could automate that but never felt I needed to.

I just checked mine. With the system shut down, water in the post RO line was 26. When I opened the TDS bypass, it shot up to 144 within seconds. Then at 1 minute of running the bypass, it was down to 7.

So, in the past, by not using the bypass, I was injecting about 145 TDS water into my DI resin

ETA granted, I only run my RODI once a week to fill/topoff my 20 gallon holding tank.

 

[wvned]

I just checked mine. With the system shut down, water in the post RO line was 26. When I opened the TDS bypass, it shot up to 144 within seconds. Then at 1 minute of running the bypass, it was down to 7.

So, in the past, by not using the bypass, I was injecting about 145 TDS water into my DI resin

ETA granted, I only run my RODI once a week to fill/topoff my 20 gallon holding tank.

Mine is automatic and refills when the sensor is dry. The numbers I am telling you are from the last time I watched.
The Hydros logs say it refilled the 80 gallon tub Sep 14, 20 and 27. So I am making water about every 7 days. It runs 4 hours. So maybe 25 gallon at a time.

 

[Reefing102]

Okay so one other thing, which I’m not sure if it’ll be addressed with the guest valve, is my good RODI output constantly drips, do we think that’s related or a separate issue?

 

[griss]

Okay so one other thing, which I’m not sure if it’ll be addressed with the guest valve, is my good RODI output constantly drips, do we think that’s related or a separate issue?

Not sure I understand.

 

[Reefing102]

Okay here’s some pics of the system and a quick video of the drip issue

Here’s the washer connection:

Here’s the system:

With those and the washer connection, I think I just need the guest valve currently (and to also hook up my in-line TDS meter)

That said, even with the washer connection as off as I can get it showing 0 PSI, I still get this drip out of my DI line (for good water not waste water):

I’m hoping the guest valve will solve it, but if it doesn’t, any thoughts?

 

[griss]

Interesting. My money is on the Guest Val e fixing the issue.

 

[griss]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Guest-1-4-in-O-D-Polypropylene-Push-to-Connect-Valve-803189/300753479