Router for acrylic

B

Billionzz

New member
I have a Dremel and they have a router attachment you buy as a add on.

Can you use this router on acrylic or would it be better to use a regular router?

Bill
 
A dremel may be a neat tool but if I was considering routing much of any acrylics I think I would invest in a router that took at least a 1/4" shank bit. Less chance for deflection and a lot more choice in tooling. No reason a dremel would not be able to do it, but I think would be a long process depending on how much and how thick of plastic had to be removed.......
 
I am tagging along but have a few questions.

How thick acrylic can a dremel with 35000 rpm handle? I was thinking of getting .25" acrylic for an external overflow box and some baffles. Would my dremel handle this and if so what bit should I use?
 
Personally I wouldn't push a dremel past .125, asking even .177 is a bit much IMHO.

You could use a trim router for such work.....but....given that a router is one of the most useful tools going you might consider buying one.

If you go that route then go with quality, you won't regret getting a good router (1/2" collett, 2+hp, variable speed, softstart, etc.)
 
I've routed 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic and PVC with a Dremel. It actually works really well in this application, although you'll need to make multiple passes with the thicker stuff. I found it is an excelent tool for making o-ring grooves that would be too small to safely cut with a larger router.

That all being said, a 2+ HP with a 1/2" collet would be the best bet for general purpose acrylic routing. I'd save the Dremel for smaller pieces.
 
Hrmm... I'll have to look at the prices of router. I don't plan on doing much acrylic work beyond this so I would hate to buy a tool for a simple task if its just going to sit in the shed for another 5+ years and get rusty. If I could get buy with the dremel I would prefer it.

I will check the hardware stores for options. Maybe this won't be as easy as I was thinking ...

Thanks for your help.

If I were to cut it with a dremel what bit should I use (I do have some .10 acrylic I will be cutting but I don't know what bit to use)
 
Dremel makes "router bits", that's what you'd want to use. They come in 1/8" & 1/4" cutting sizes - use the 1/8", it's easier on the dremel. As mentioned you can get it done, just go slow & remove a little at a time. I've built a few wood things with a dremel router - works.

Here's a cheap/decent trim router - like a dremel on steroids - can handle 1/4" & 1/8" (dremel size) bits.

MLCS Trim Router
 
Thanks for the help,

I'm not going to try it with the dremel, it sounds like a router is the best way to go.

What is the difference between a regular router and a trim router?

Which of these would be better for acrylic?

Bill
 
One more question a little off the subject.

I was planning on cutting the acrylic with a jigsaw, what type of saws does most people use to cut acrylic?

I was planning on making a couple sumps and some small tanks.

Bill
 
Bill,

A trim router is basically a less powerful router. I would highly recommend getting a good router it you can afford it. It is one of the most versatile tools you can own. If you plan on building a sump and a small tank, the router would be a worthwhile investment.

Using a jigsaw will melt the acrylic onto the blade, but I have read sereral posts where it was done this way with success (and many blade changes) Do you have a table or circular saw? One of these with a $15 blade from lowes will work much better.

Oh, and if you already decided to buy a router, that can cut acrylic as well. Use a straight bit and a straight edge to guide it along.

Good Luck!
 
That would buy me a lot of reef equipment. Unfortunately my budget won't flex for a $200 router although I like the brand ;o) I might look around at other options. I suppose billionzz has lots of money to spend. haha. (Sorry couldn't resist billionzz)
 
I might look around at other options.
Click to expand...
See the MLCS unit above - kinda like a "router lite". Five amps gives decent power & you can spin 1/4" bits = enough for light work.

Best router bit for acrylic is a solid carbide spiral bit. Far better than any two/three fluted cutter & will last much longer.
 
Thank you ErikS! I will be looking deeply into the router/bits you described. I might be purchasing one of those because it seems to be more in my budget. I *almost* got my wife talked into letting me build a 2.5G pico surge like the guy on n-r.com If thats the case then the router would be wanted because that would be a lot of acrylic work (when combined with my current tank)
 
I will get a good router since I have so much money :)

Can you tell me little more about cutting with a router? Can you cut as straight as a table saw?

As far as cheap routers and expensive routers is the difference the options of what they can do or is it durability?

Bill
 
Bill,

Yes you can cut it as straight as with a tablesaw. The thing to remember is on either tool, you must start with a straight line. You can do this by aligning a table saw fence and setting the blade to a true 90 degrees. With a router, you can align a straight edge on top of the piece being cut and run the router along this edge. Or use a guide that follows along the edge of the piece being cut, like one that comes with the router I linked to above.

Router prices are based mostly on power, durability, ease of use, and name brand. They have the same basic function, spin a bit at high speeds to cut materials.

I agree with ErikS about the bits, but man was I surprised when I saw that good quality carbide cutters were $30-$50 a pop. Of course you can check out Harbour Freight for cheaper options.

Most of the info I have is from a little bit of experience and A LOT of reading on this site. Here are some of the ones that may help you.

Start here. Several acrylic fabricators answer questions about many different topics.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=562051&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

Threads about building acrylic tanks.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_acrylic_aquarium.php
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3062657#post3062657

Good Luck!
 
I agree with ErikS about the bits, but man was I surprised when I saw that good quality carbide cutters were $30-$50 a pop
Click to expand...
Yep, they can hurt the wallet quite a bit....but....

When it comes to router bits (& routers) it's like reef equipment - you get what you pay for to a certain extent.

"Bargain" bits generally can have features like pressed on cutters, less amount of carbide, and not balanced very well. Higher end bits have more carbide, cutters are welded, and they're balanced.

Cheaper bits like Vermont American, Skill, Sears non-pro are "okay" for occasional & light use. Higher end bits like Amana, CMT, Whiteside, BOSCH, and MLCS Katana are very good - they will cut all day w/o a problem.

Remember - you're going to spin this bit at 20,000+ rpm = not a good time to have things go wrong.

That being said there are a couple of "lessor known" brands that offer very good quality (like MRC & GEO of the wood world - they're not mass market names).

Holbren

Blade's n Bits

I've not used anything from Blades-n-bits but I've heard good things. I have used bit from Brad (Holbren) - he a good guy & stands behind his products (note: I'm not affiliated with either of them).

Routers are much the same. The name brands (Bosch, DeWalt, PC, Hitachi) have "made their bones" - they've proved themselves to be workhorses. Others such as Ryobi, Sears (except the Bosch re-name), Skill can function fine in the "occasional/weekend" use role. With the higher end units you get a stronger design - beefier colletts, stronger bearings = they're designed for heavy use.

If you want really good info on what can be done with a router look for book(s) by Pat Warner - he's pretty much THE authority on routers.
 
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