Running power to LEDs and plug advice

[sfsuphysics]

So need some ideas for getting power from my PS to the LEDs. Probably looking at about a 10 foot length for whatever power option I go with.

First question, using LDD-HW drivers (no boards to put them in), is there any advantage to having a short run from the power supply? or a shorter run to the LEDs? Only advantage I can maybe think of is that my controller will be back near the PSU (out of the humid zone), and the wire for the PWM control won't have to be that long.

Plugs for the LEDs, this is something I've been racking my mind over. I'll basically have 10 wires going to each fixture I make, 4 channels for LEDs, plus power for the fan. What are people using for quick disconnect type plugs? (or are they?)

My plan is to have a small project box attached to each heatsink where I can have the spaghetti of wires and what not hidden, so if I want to do wire nuts I can cram 10 wire nuts into it or have some terminal blocks inside but I do like the idea of those LED wires coming to the project box and simply having a plug where I can have it all done on "dry ground" hang the fixture, then run the wire and plug right in, rather than hanging the fixture, running the wire then hanging over the tank attaching wirenuts, hoping I don't drop anything into the tank etc.

Cant find many options for an 8 pin plug, however using 2-4 pin plugs (plus a 2 pin for fan) would be fine too, just everything I've seen has one side that's wired, the other side looks more like something you'd solder to a circuit board.

Anyways, some advice would be welcomed.

 

[pwreef]

You can use milspec connectors, but those are expensive. We are talking $50-$60. I used DB-9 in my previous fixture. There is no reason why you could not use PC monitor 15-pin connectors and monitor cable between LEDs and drivers.

 

[sfsuphysics]

yeah thought about a dsub connector. heck also thought about simply using a vga cable but then I saw the specs on some of the wires and skipped that idea, some of the channels were 26 or 28 gauge IIRC

 

[karimwassef]

Look for this is electronic bay:

100sets Waterproof JST 2Pin Male and Female Electrical Connectors Wire Terminal

 

[sleepydoc]

How much current are you going to be running? you may well exceed the current limit of the connector or wires connected to it. The PWM signal is far lower current so that's less of an issue. For that reason I'd lean towards having the drivers close to the LEDs

A longer run between the driver and the LEDs also means more of a voltage drop, before getting to the LEDs, but depending on your wire that's probably not going to be an issue.

I used some of these in my project. Only 6 pins, but you could either use 2 or they also make them with more pins.

Molex connectors would also be an option.

 

[karimwassef]

Good point. I'm assuming 500-700mA for using the connectors I posted.
This covers most LED and cooling fan currents.

 

[sfsuphysics]

1000mA for about half of them, 700ma for the other half.

But yeah I'm leaning towards the JST SM type connectors, I saw those big bundles. Not sure I like the wires attached to them though mostly because I can find the gauge of the wire but also because I'd like a single wire/plug without having to splice ends together. But I do like the idea that those SM connectors will clip together so there's no accidental unplugging.

After thinking about it, I do think I'll run the drivers closer to the fixtures, my thought of "running too much wire with the PWM signal wire" kind of was moot, when I realized I could simply run some much thicker gauge wire above the tank in a raceway track (I got plenty of 12 or 14 gauge NM wire laying around, then have each driver tap off that wire at the end via block connectors, then it'll be short 1-2 foot run to the LED fixture.

I used some of these in my project. Only 6 pins, but you could either use 2 or they also make them with more pins.

Those were some of the first I saw, I was a bit concerned about corrosion on the outer part and threads of the connector.