salinity dilemma

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6540137#post6540137 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lakeside518
I recommend a UV turbo twist;) 18 watt
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium...rs_ozonizers_coralife_turbo-twist.asp?CartId=
This 18W unit is way under power. The suggested 250 gallon rating is for killing bacteria and algae only, no way to kill parasites like ich.

Download the instructions for the "6x - 18W" here:

http://www.esuweb.com/productinstruct/pdf/096316770713.pdf

Go to the last page, it clearly shows that to kill parasites, you can not exceed 110GPH. Also you will need a water turn over of at least 3x of your tank volume. So this unit is only good for 110/3 = 36 gallon.

If you are looking for a Turbo-Twist (which doesn't have a wiper, and you'll need to clean the UV sleeve every month to keep the unit effective).

You should get the 36W version instead:

http://www.esuweb.com/productinstruct/pdf/096316770720.pdf

To kiil parasites, the 36W version is is rated for 290GPH, therefore it's sufficient for you 90 gallon tank.
 
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another question i have is, will my caulepra stay alive with a salinity of 1.020?

also i just tested my water

salinty- 1.020
nitrite- 0ppm
ph- between 8.0-8.3
alkalinity- 175ppm

i added some buffer to raise my alkalinity, is everything else good?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6539914#post6539914 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer1187
therbligs,

you said that you keep your salinity at 1.022, do you get any outbreaks at that salinity and how often?

and did you get outbreaks at 1.019 and also how often?

I did not get any at either salinity, but at 1.019 the fish were feeling it (3-4 months). I was also running a 36w Double Helix UV with a 125gph flow rate.

Most LFS will run a lower Salinity. In reality this is only a short period of time for the fish, because of the turn-over rate. This is the reason why they can run their system at such a low salinity.

I've even seen some LFS's run the same system for SW and Africans:eek2: I do not go to these LFS's anymore!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6541880#post6541880 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer1187
so u put the uv sterilizer inside your return line?
That will get you the best result, the clearer the water flowing through UV the better. If your return has much higher flow rate, then you should get a more power UV unit respectively. The parasites must stay inside the UV canister for certain amount of time and receive the necessary UV dosage before they are disabled :uzi:
 
k what bout my water parameters

salinty- 1.020
nitrite- 0ppm
ph- between 8.0-8.3
alkalinity- 175ppm

i added some buffer to raise my alkalinity, is everything else good?

and also will my caulepra stay alive with 1.020 salinity?
 
I've never had caulepra before. But why don't you just raise the salinity to 1.024, then you are free the throw anything into the tank without any worry.

1.020 will not prevent ich, LFS's are also using copper and UV at the same time to combat ich. Simply lower the salinity to 1.020 will do nothing for you.
 
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I have been running my FO tank at 1.020 for years. No problems. I also run a UV sterilizer. Its hooked up last in the chain to the return line. I got the Rainbow Lifguard. I like it because you can change the bulb without having to shut the system down.

FWIW - I have never had ich. (knocking on wood) :D
 
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