So I posted on here a few days ago about testing water... I had used API test kit and I got readings of about 8.1 PH, ammonia somewhere between .25 and 0, 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates... I have been cycling for a week now but the only thing I am using is live sand and cured live rock... And that's it.... I got these results after doing a 10 gallon water change but before the change I got the same results... The LFS however says I have high ammonia and nitrates ( b4 water Change)....I'm pretty sure they use either a tetra or instant ocean tests kits cuz they only have those in their shop.... Can anyone shed light on the situation
Saltwater testing
- Thread starter Erik2514
- Start date
Water change not really needed. With LR and LS you wont see much of a cycle , but during the cycle your tanks building bacteria you cant see and this bacteria helps handle your bio load so waiting 4 to 6 weeks before adding or tank maintenance is best. This hobby all about patients.
Always do water tests in the morning for best readings as reading could change from daily tank activity. You will need 2 test kits as phosphate test is in a separate kit.
Always do water tests in the morning for best readings as reading could change from daily tank activity. You will need 2 test kits as phosphate test is in a separate kit.
Do they have saltwater tanks? Your API test kits are better than their tetra or instant ocean test kits, in my opinion.
What you can do is ghost feed your tank lightly for a couple days(pretend you have a fish or two and are spot feeding them). Since there's nothing to eat it, it will decay, and you should see an ammonia spike. I used cured live rock from a local fish store and actually had no noticeable cycle, even when ghost feeding for almost a week, but every tank is different.
What you can do is ghost feed your tank lightly for a couple days(pretend you have a fish or two and are spot feeding them). Since there's nothing to eat it, it will decay, and you should see an ammonia spike. I used cured live rock from a local fish store and actually had no noticeable cycle, even when ghost feeding for almost a week, but every tank is different.
Well, having high ammonia and nitrates really doesn't make a lot of sense. If the tank was cycling you would have high ammonia, then nitrites, then nitrates. Give that a try, and see if you can get any noticeable ammonia. Like, .5, since the API ammonia kits almost always ready between 0 and .25.
Yea that's what I was so confused about cuz I have been reading about cycling but their tests show basically steps 1 and 3 high which confused me... But my tests show basically zero which seems to be how it should be with live sand and cured live rock... And I will... What kinds of fish food would would u recommend or does it not matter?
Yea I read it... Sorry I thought I also commented on it but I guess it didn't post...but I said that makes sense on why wouldn't see a change because there is dry little to no ammonia added... But wat I was confused about was why my test showed nothing... But my LFS showed spikes in ammonia and nitrate which made no sense
If he can ghost feed the tank for a few days without any noticeable ammonia or nitrites, and his nitrates rise, he doesn't need to wait. He can change a bit of water and SLOWLY add bioload. Maybe a couple of snails, or a small fish. If his tank is already cycled and he waits that long without feeding the tank or adding a fuel source for the bacteria to see if it is broken down properly.....he could starve the beneficial bacteria and be going backwards...
Waiting 4-6 weeks with an empty tank without adding a fuel source for the bacteria will do absolutely nothing for his cycle... I have had freshwater tanks for years and I don't understand this "wait 4-6 weeks" logic at all. Whether it's freshwater, or salt water. The science is the same. Once your cycle completes, ADD BIOLOAD. You could continue to feed the tank waste to keep the bacterial colony growing but what is the point of that? The good bacteria in your tank can begin to starve and predation will begin within the bacteria colony within 10 days. At that point you're just going backwards...
Well Pez68 I do agree that under the correct conditions starting to add would be alright if done slowly I like to go by the book. If it is LR and LS then their should be enough food for the bacteria to grow. I also used LR and LS with no testable cycle but I waited 4 weeks and then added a small shroom and a few snails and then waited and then a fish and more CUC.
But this hobby is all about being patient so suffering a few weeks looking at what they think is an empty tank only builds a stronger bond between you and this amazing thing , a tiny coral reef in your living room. Still amazes me.
Step by step. No hurry have fun.
But this hobby is all about being patient so suffering a few weeks looking at what they think is an empty tank only builds a stronger bond between you and this amazing thing , a tiny coral reef in your living room. Still amazes me.
Step by step. No hurry have fun.
I agree. However, every tank is different. I like to look at aquarium keeping as biology and chemistry experiments when starting off. You have to experiment with waste/fuel additions and monitoring of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. I like to imagine how much biolife would be in my tank, max, then feed it just like I would if it were full for a few days. Watch for the ammonia spike, watch for the nitrites to rise, then look for those to both zero out and nitrates to climb. Once you see those nitrates climbing, your bacteria is established and doing what it should. Get the nitrates down and get some life in there. The entire tank is a symbiotic relationship of everything and anything. Without a fuel source(waste) those bacteria can't survive either. Same way they allow the fish and inverts to survive.
Also if you start out with completely new rock, there is not much to die and it may take forever to get a cycle. You basically have to wait until enough waste floats into the tank from outside and triggers the cycle.
Also if you start out with completely new rock, there is not much to die and it may take forever to get a cycle. You basically have to wait until enough waste floats into the tank from outside and triggers the cycle.
Doesn't matter. All you are looking for is the decay of that food/organism to wake up the bacteria. Some people use a piece of shrimp but I personally don't like that method. Don't go crazy with the food. A small pinch every day should be fine. It's harder to extract than the piece of shrimp but a lot of snails or shrimp will clean the decaying food up as soon as they hit the tank. Mine did.
Until my nitrates became visible and my water parameters were good. 
Again, every tank is different. Let your tank talk to you and don't set any hard dates or timelines. Look for ammonia. Then look for nitrites. Then nitrates. Then get nitrates back down to zero with water changes. Then add life SLOWLY. Shrimp are sensitive to water changes and quality so take your time, and research every organism before you put it in the tank. With shrimp you need your salinity, PH, and temperature to be as close to the store you are purchasing from as possible. They don't do we'll with high nitrates either so keep them in check.
Research, research, research and don't be afraid to ask stupid questions.
Again, every tank is different. Let your tank talk to you and don't set any hard dates or timelines. Look for ammonia. Then look for nitrites. Then nitrates. Then get nitrates back down to zero with water changes. Then add life SLOWLY. Shrimp are sensitive to water changes and quality so take your time, and research every organism before you put it in the tank. With shrimp you need your salinity, PH, and temperature to be as close to the store you are purchasing from as possible. They don't do we'll with high nitrates either so keep them in check.
Research, research, research and don't be afraid to ask stupid questions.
