Saving Ora picassos from ich

SeedlessOne

Member
Okay I need some help with my situation. My 90g has been cycled for 2 weeks now. The first fish I added was a coral beauty a week and a half ago. I then added my Picasso pair last Monday. Everything has been great up until yesterday. The coral beauty was hanging out in a strange spot all morning and something didn't seem right. Noticed a small white spot of some sort next the its right side fin near gills. It was to big for ich and I thought it looked like an abrasion mark and didn't think much else. Later that night I was checking on the coral beauty and noticed ich developed over much of his body. He died last night. Now with that said I need to save the new clownfish for sure as they were very pricey.

All thats in the tank is the pair with sand, 15lbs live rock and 75lbs base rock. I was going to buy a cuc and the rest of the fish stock yesterday but I put it off.....I'm glad I did now.

I don't have a qt tank and would rather not stress the fish transferring them to a quick setup qt. Since I only have the pair of clownfish with no inverts should I just use the hyposalanity method in my dt? Thanks for the time helping me with choosing the best method for saving my clownfish and getting my new tank ich free.
 
If you HAVE to save them at any cost, get some coppersafe or quinine and dose your tank. It will limit your ability to have inverts and corals later, but it will have a 99% success rate of killing the ich. If you can, catch them and put them in a smaller tank to dose so the rock does not have the copper in it, but if thats impossible, just dose the whole tank. Good luck
 
..not to be rude , that 90 needs more than 2 weeks to cycle.
I ran mine for about 6 weeks before I put anything in it.
I would pluck the fish and QT them. Then stick a piece of shrimp ( from your grocer ) on a bamboo skewer in the tank until it rots off. dump a shot of vodka in the tank ....and wait. For about a month.
 
I am not going to use copper especially in my dt. I would rather not have to setup a make shift qt. I don't have anything tank or equipment wise and i think it would take to long to cycle the tank. I know a qt is optimal but can I get away with hypo in the display tank since there is very little fish and no inverts.


And thanks for the input but if you read I said the tank has been cycled for two weeks. Not the tank has been setup for two weeks.
 
A 10 gal tanks only cost around 10 bucks & makes a good q tank. You would need less meds for a tank of that size compaired to the 90.
 
Wouldnt I have to wait to cycle the qt? Never tried to throw a tank together ASAP.

And using the hypo method won't cost any money as I won't be dosing anything.
 
You don't cycle a q tank. Bare bottom, no rock, empty & maybe pvc fittings for the fish to hide in. A hob filter & a heater. Just do water changes.
 
Not to be difficult but rather me furthering my knowledge what would be the down side to using the hypo method on my dt? Thanks for the help so far. Never had to deal with ich before.
 
I used Kordons ich treatment from Petco on my 180 reef. I added a yellow eye kole tang from Foster and Smith and the next day all tangs were starting to get it. 3 days into it 95 % is gone and everybody is looking good. Good luck. If I lost my fish the tank was getting shut down.
 
You need a QT/HT. Its a vital piece of equipment. The "stress'' of moving fish to a HT/QT, or the "stress'" of a QT on new fish is anywhere near an acceptable reason not to QT all new fish and move sick fish to a HT when needed. If a fish can't handle that little move, its almost dead anyhow. It may be too late to cycle a HT now, you'll have to rely on WCs to control ammonia.
For future use: a HT/QT can and should be cycled. Use a HOB filter (I like Aqua-Clear) and keep an extra filter sponge in the flow of your DTs filter system. It will instantly cycle a QT/HT when needed. Don't re-use HT/QT sponges, they're cheap.
BTW, almost every current problem on the disease forum today could have been avoided with a proper QT regimen....but that's always the case.
 
I used Kordons ich treatment from Petco on my 180 reef. I added a yellow eye kole tang from Foster and Smith and the next day all tangs were starting to get it. 3 days into it 95 % is gone and everybody is looking good. Good luck. If I lost my fish the tank was getting shut down.
I have a feeling you're in that little window where ich is mostly in the cyst stage and will return in much larger numbers. I have never heard of the product (I assume its Kordon Ich Attack) you're using working long-term. tank-transfer, copper, or hypo are still the only ways to kill ich-----as most hobbyists learn sooner or later. There is no such thing as a "reef safe" ich cure.
 
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