ladybug5234
New member
I need help in IDing these guys. I think they're either H. Erectus or H. Reidi but I cant tell the difference. Can anyone help? Thanks!
Seahorse ID?
- Thread starter ladybug5234
- Start date
Bluespot22
New member
Not erectus for sure. They look like comes to me.
ladybug5234
New member
Yep, it seems that's what they are. Any idea, although I know it is generally frowned upon, if I can keep these with H. reidi? From what I understand they both can be kept at the same tank temp.
ladybug5234
New member
Yep, it seems that's what they are. Any idea, although I know it is generally frowned upon, if I can keep these with H. reidi? From what I understand they both can be kept at the same tank temp.
mollymonticello
Member
I don't recommend mixing species. I mix erectus with pipefish, but I quarantined them in a bare bottom tank for months. I also keep the temperature low (between 68 and 72, sometimes up to 74 in summer), so I think it helps keep bacteria populations low. I haven't had problems. Yet.
JennyL
New member
Beautiful H comes Ladybug. Are these Captive Bred?
I know a very experienced keeper looking for some healthy Captive Bred H comes.
I have kept H comes in the past and they are a delightful species.
Mine seemed to be more Nocturnal and became much more active after lights out in the evening. Not all H comes exibit this behaviour in talking with others that keep or have kept this species but mine did.
Mixing species is very risky and I would also advise against it.
I know a very experienced keeper looking for some healthy Captive Bred H comes.
I have kept H comes in the past and they are a delightful species.
Mine seemed to be more Nocturnal and became much more active after lights out in the evening. Not all H comes exibit this behaviour in talking with others that keep or have kept this species but mine did.
Mixing species is very risky and I would also advise against it.
ladybug5234
New member
These aren't mine. They're from a LFS. I've been doing some research and although the general concensus is not to mix species, I can't find any reasoning behind it. I just want to understand things better, that's all, and do what's best for the SH I keep. I do have captive bred Reidis (2) and I don't know where these came from. The only positive I see is they're eating frozen.
ann83
New member
It has to do with seahorses being asymptomatic carriers of pathenogenic strains of bacteria, specifically vibrio sp. Its not a compatibility issue, its a disease issue. It seems that seahorses from different species, or even the same species from different sources, can get each other very, very sick by exposing each other to strains of bacteria that they have no previous resistance to.
ladybug5234
New member
Is there a way to medicate them while in extended quarantine to diminish the chances of infection? Again, just educating myself here, not trying to be hard headed or put my beatiful H. reidi at risk.
ann83
New member
Nope. Its basically just taking a big risk. Mixing will either go just fine, or they'll get sick and then you treat them, or they die. Really no way around it. I would say that the steps that are most likely to help give you better odds are:
1. Quarantine for 8 weeks to get past shipping/LFS stress, make sure they are eating, and make sure they are used to your water and your routine, and to double check that they aren't carrying something really nasty that is going to present quickly.
2. Keep the water temperature under 74 degrees. I'd even keep it at 68 for a while after the seahorses are introduced to each other. That should keep bacterial reproduction slow, and prevent them from mutating to produce more aggressive proteins. The only problem with that is that H. comes are known for being less active at temperatures that low... so that presents another complication in mixing with them.
3. After the 8 week quarantine period is up, rather than introduce them to each other immediately, start gradually mixing water between the two tanks, a small amount at a time (while keeping the temperature under 74, and preferably at 68-70). That will give them time to be exposed to the bacteria in lower concentrations, and could, possibly, maybe but not necessarily, allow them to build up some resistance.
4. Keep all stress to a minimum. That means perfect water parameters, low to zero nitrates, low stocking density, no temperature fluctuations, no major salinity fluctuations, no pH fluctuations, good oxygenation, good pH, no aggressive or fast swimming tankmates, etc. etc.
However, even with all of these safeguards, you could still end up with a tank full of dead seahorses, or they could live together fine for years, and then the first time you have a temperature spike, or another stressor in the tank, the whole tank (or one species) could fall ill and/or die because they've finally faced large enough numbers of the foreign bacteria that they don't have resistance to.
An additional concern is that with the "TR" and WC seahorses in the LFS, like most likely these H. comes, there is also a risk of parasites, so it would be prudent to deworm them during the quarantine period. I would also consider freshwater dips.
1. Quarantine for 8 weeks to get past shipping/LFS stress, make sure they are eating, and make sure they are used to your water and your routine, and to double check that they aren't carrying something really nasty that is going to present quickly.
2. Keep the water temperature under 74 degrees. I'd even keep it at 68 for a while after the seahorses are introduced to each other. That should keep bacterial reproduction slow, and prevent them from mutating to produce more aggressive proteins. The only problem with that is that H. comes are known for being less active at temperatures that low... so that presents another complication in mixing with them.
3. After the 8 week quarantine period is up, rather than introduce them to each other immediately, start gradually mixing water between the two tanks, a small amount at a time (while keeping the temperature under 74, and preferably at 68-70). That will give them time to be exposed to the bacteria in lower concentrations, and could, possibly, maybe but not necessarily, allow them to build up some resistance.
4. Keep all stress to a minimum. That means perfect water parameters, low to zero nitrates, low stocking density, no temperature fluctuations, no major salinity fluctuations, no pH fluctuations, good oxygenation, good pH, no aggressive or fast swimming tankmates, etc. etc.
However, even with all of these safeguards, you could still end up with a tank full of dead seahorses, or they could live together fine for years, and then the first time you have a temperature spike, or another stressor in the tank, the whole tank (or one species) could fall ill and/or die because they've finally faced large enough numbers of the foreign bacteria that they don't have resistance to.
An additional concern is that with the "TR" and WC seahorses in the LFS, like most likely these H. comes, there is also a risk of parasites, so it would be prudent to deworm them during the quarantine period. I would also consider freshwater dips.
ladybug5234
New member
Ann, thank you for your extensive explanation. I now know enough about the risks that I'd be posing to my beautiful little girls and do not think I'd be willing to risk them. Besides, I think it might be too soon to get more Sh. Again thanks for your kind help!
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