Seahorse tank setup advice

rogerrgr

Member
I've failed at my first attempt at having seahorses and would like try again in the future. I would like to redo my current setup, or start over on a new one.
Right now, I have a 26g flat back hex that has been set up for 1.5 years as a goby and softie tank. I took out the fish and corals and tried to keep seahorses. It has a cpr hob refugium, hob instant ocean skimmer and pc lighting. It has argonite sand substrate, maybe 15# of live rock, and don't have any problems at keeping temperature at 70-71.
I really like the shape and stand of my current setup, but also have other tanks that I could set up. I have a reef ready 20g tall, and a regular 29g non drilled tank that are both empty.
My question is, what would be my best tank setup option to keep a pair of seahorses possibly erectus or kuda? From what I've read, it would probably be the 29g for the height. The 26g I have is only 16'' tall I think and an inch of substrate.. Or should I just look for a used bigger tank, like a hexagon or something and transfer the contents of my current setup. Or should I go bare bottom and remove the sand. I have the burrowing snails for stirring it up and I also vacuum it.
And are any of you using a sump hooked to your seahorse tanks? I have mostly hob equipment with my current setup.
Any advice or suggestions and pictures of similar sized setups would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
 
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Sumps are the best if you can swing one, but not a "must". Don't be afraid of flow, as SH can handle a LOT more than the "old info" dictates. Just be sure to use flow creatively and use common sense (e.g., don't blow your SH into the walls). About 10x turnover is what most folks are doing these days, altho we run about 15x, and I even know a keeper who runs 60x, but he spent a lot of time and trial and error to get it "just right".

For a single pair, go with the 29 gal. I also recommend 1" - 2" of substrate. I prefer nothing coarser than #3 grade and nothing finer than #1 grade aragonite. It "lays down" way better than "sugar-fine" sand and doesn't trap detritus like CC, thus requiring no vacuuming.

The "vertical" thing is really only important if you plan on breeding the SH, as the extra height gives them the space to complete their coital "spins" and subsequent egg transfer.

I also recommend using live macro in the DT...it's great for hitching posts, looks nice, aids in water quality via nutrient transport, and harbors pods for hunting between meals.

I also strongly recommend getting your SH from a reputable breeder/hobbyist breeder. They will come to you happily eating frozen mysis, and disease-free.

Finally, be aware that the optimum temp. for tropical SH is +74*F max, as this keeps the in-tank bacterial count within manageable numbers (SH are very prone to bacterial infections).

HTH
 
Yes, that helps. I already have some dry argonite sand leftover from my 125g reef tank the size you suggested. I have a tunze 6025 for flow that I didn't really use in the 26g due to the blowing the seahorses around.

I like having a sump on my reef tank but think I'll get an overflow box for my hob skimmer to help with surface skimming. And I have a hang on back fuge that I could use for pod growth along with the macro in the DT like suggested.
Would I be ok moving the contents of my set up tank to the new tank to cut down on cycling, or just start over? Would moving the old sand cause a nitrate spike?

I also have an 80g tall tank that may become available for use if I get rid of my freshwater south american cichlids. It has the same footprint as a 55 but the height is about 31'' or so, and never used meds or copper in the tank, but it has some scratches.. I just don't know if I can convince the wife to have that size tank in the bedroom. Might just be better to stick with the upgrade to the 29g for one pair.
Thanks guys!
 
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