Seeking sump guidance

[kevin95695]

Hi,

I originally posted this to the main noob forum on RC, but didn't get any responses, so I'm hoping going local will help:

I'm setting up an Oceanic 75g with 'Reef Ready' sump (model 1, 20g?). I'm thinking I'm going to remove the bio-balls and take them to the driving range. Something similar with the sponges. The sump is roughly broken into three areas. What I thought I'd do in pt 1 is filter floss on top (near in-flow) and rock under. In pt 2 I thought I'd do a 'six pack' configuration of plastic containers as a mini DSB with a wad of chaeto on top. Pt 3 would be heaters / return pump / skimmer plumbing. Did I miss anything? Am I making any major mistakes?

THANKS!

 

[MrMikeB]

Hey Kevin,

I think you are pretty close to what you will need. A couple thoughts/suggestions:

When you say 'mini-DSB' what exactly is mini? DSB, like the name implies, requires, well a deep bed. If you are not going deep enough (I think the consensus is somewhere like 12-18"), then you are not going to get the results you are looking for (assuming you are doing the DSB for absorption of nitrates, etc.) I only bring this up because there is inherent risk of having a DSB in the first place, so best be sure you are getting something back.

Also, although it does not hurt, you really need a ton of the chaeto to do much any good save keep your sump green or provide a wicked home for a ton of pods. I would suggest running either one or the other (DSB or macro) so that you can do one well enough to make an impact. (assuming of course you can do a DSB in the first place).

Is your skimmer and return pump external? or are they to sit in the sump too? If you have room, I would seriously look into a phosban reactor and a top off float. Believe you me, you will thank me later that you hooked it up in the beginning.

Hope this helps!

 

[kevin95695]

Thanks MrMikeB. Hmmm...

Skimmer is external, but the pump that feeds it is in the sump. I've seen DIY phosban reactors. Perhaps I'll do pvc tubes as DSB in chamber 1 under the 'diffuser' where the water spills in. I can go 12" if I do them there (assuming water level is cool -- I'm going to leave headroom to prevent flood in event of power failure). Chamber 2 would then be LR rubble and/or either chaeto or phosban reactor. Final space would be equipment.

I'm as confused as ever.

 

[miracles38]

Kevin
You should have the skimmer before the fuge. Otherwise the skimmer will take out the benefits of the fuge.

 

[MrMikeB]

Just to get started, here is what I would do:

1) Run the overflow into Chamber 1, and have it go through a filter sock/floss.
2) Run your skimmer in Chamber 1 as well to grab the stuff that needs to get out of the water ASAP.
3) Run your secondary chamber with chaeto and LR for extra filtration and pod growth
4) Run your phosban reactor, top off float, and gauges on the 3rd chamber where your return will go.
5) I would run the heater in the actual overflow if you can (back of the tank). Gets it out of the way and typically most heaters are too big to fit in a sump well.

As for the DSB goes, it takes awhile to establish and I think there is a lot of inherent risk there to worry about in the beginning. Risks like overfilling your sump when the power goes out. You can always add the DSB later through some creative use of buckets or other 'bolt' on pieces.

Clear up the water any? hehe, pun intended.

 

[kevin95695]

Thanks Kim. Thanks MrMikeB. Gotcha. Sounds like a plan.

I'm planning on replacing the floss often to avoid a nitrate factory. From this conversation I'm a lot clearer on my direction. Thanks again.

 

[Sheldon337]

I second the call for an auto-topoff. You will find adding a sump greatly increases evaporation.

 

[TNTREEF]

Can the floss and just siphon out the crap on the bottom of the sump at your water change. Save you a little $. The pods will eat what ever gets in the sump and your going to get detritus down there no matter what you do any way. Other than that skimmer, fuge, top off and return.

 

[kevin95695]

I'm clueless as to top offs. Any advice? I'll be running my 1/4" RO/DI line under the house to the stand. I talked to Reefugee recently a little about float valves, and I'm nervous about flooding...

Should I keep the drilled acrylic sheet near the top that is diffusing the water, or just let it splash down?

 

[MrMikeB]

As for top offs, I would hook your 1/4 into a mechanical float device (Kent makes a decent one) and leave your RO/DI active all the time. You can put a tee in place on the 1/4" tubing to run your water change basin. I would not worry too much about flooding when you have a mechanical filter. I think you will notice it deteriorate slowly enough to replace it when needed.

As for the water from the overflow, you will want to be mindful of the noise. I try to minimize any splashing because it is noisy and tends to get saltwater all over the place. Splashing = no good. Personally I run a pipe off the overflow beneath the water line in the sump into a filter sock. The sound is muffled and I still get a prefilter.

 

[kevin95695]

Hehehe. This is all coming together nicely. Thanks again.

 

[Reefugee]

I still think that a mechanical auto topoff system is not the way to go. I rather use a dual "electronic" float switch. Then have a pump pump the water into the tank.


BTW - I heard (but have not confirmed) that it is not good to have your RODI system run for a bunch of short interval (vs running it less frequently but for longer interval). I am not sure I believe this - but several people have mentioned it to me before.

 

[TNTREEF]

I have had my RODI hooked to a float valve in the sump for 3yrs and with no problems except for the valve sticking closed and my sump running a little low, but you are supposed to ck things like that along with all your equipment every couple days or so. And as far as it ruining the filters. No it does not. My S. Sac water is around 150-170 tds. I have only changed my membrane once in 3yrs(it's due now) and my other filters every 6mos. I get good clean water all the time. 0tds. I get 1-2 when my DI is used up.

 

[kevin95695]

That could be a whole 'nother thread... Reefugee can tell you, my TDS from the tap is >600ppm.

 

[Reefugee]

Troy ,

How do you know when it's time to replace your filters? I have my RODI system for about 2 years now, and have never replaced the filter. All I have done is flush the system and replace the DI resin. My TDS is usually 0-2 (depending on how used my DI resin is).

Minh

 

[TNTREEF]

Air Water Ice told me to change the membrane annually. As for the other filters I just go by how dark or dirty they are. The DI resin gets changed when my TDS reads 1-2. For the membrane you can also go by the flow of the pure water. If it's still slower than normal after you flush then change the membrane. I never let my TDS get above 2.