Serious Euphillia Problem!

Shawnts106

Shawnts106

New member
Hey, about a week ago, I had noticed that my frag of Neon green pink tipped torch was not acting right, it was closed up, the tenticles where very scrawny and slim and it looked at though their where wholes in the tips...

a few days later after dipping it in seachem reef dip it finnally died...

I was very upset, but thought that maybe it got stung by something in the tank...

NOW... I have noticed my Wall Hammer has got a case of a receeding outer membrain and it is not opening fully..

I also have noticed today that my Other torch, yellow tipped, is doing the same thing as my green one...

I have already lost 1 full head of it , and several others are doing the same thing!!!!

I am really scared, and DO NOT want to loose my torch or hammer!!!!

Could this be a strontium deficency...

I have been useing RODI water, but I always add some Osmoprep by kent before I put it in the tank...

I use no additives usually, besides the occational DT's phto and Oyster eggs...

and I will occationally put some Nutra Sea Reef Energizer in, and I DO MEAN OCCATIONALLY!...

the NutraSea Reef Energizer has Ca, Iodine, Strontium, and molybdenum in it...

I think this company no longer exsists...


anyway...

What is causeing this and what could it be?

Tank specs are
75gallons
Tidepool 1 filtration
ASM g2 skimmer, just put on a week ago
Ca 480ppm
Alk 2.5meq/L
phosphates undetectable
nitrates undetectable, maybe 1 or 2 ppm
lighting is 440watts of VHO and 130watts of PC

they have been doing fine for almost a year untill now...

I recently did a waterchange but used IO... I work at a LFS so we can get it in boxes "store salt" is what its called, its just basically the normal everyday IO...

what is this? Can I save my Euphillias?
 
If you don't test, the easiest thing to do is a bunch of water changes to eliminate that potential problem. Relating to Mg and alk, that is.
 
I have just done 2 waterchanges within a months or month and a half...

In general, Lol, I do waterchanges when I feel like it..

Considering my Trates, and Phosphates stay 0 to very low I dont feel such a NEEEED to do them so often... although I should really be doing them at least once a month, even if they are small... to replace things that are lost...

These past two WC's were 20gallon changes.


I have put on th ASM g2 and its really done alot of skiming for me... and Im loveing what its doing to my corals.. they are ALL coloring up with the exception of my euphyllias which Im worried to death about...


BTW: Today I took the torch and split the dieing polyps off of the healthy ones to try to min. the effects ....

And Dipped them in SeaChem's Reef Dip...

and for the hammer, its seems to be ok, but Im just worried because there isnt alot of overlaping membrain tissue... just about a Cm or 2.... and on one small spot of it its receeded to the outskirt...

I took some Purple UP and put a few drops on that area to see what that might do, considering it is Ca and Iodine , and has Strontium, Magnessium and molybdenum I think in it...

the hammer didnt like that too much...!

He closed quite quickly and and developed a thick white film on the area... I DONT RECOMMEND DOING THIS!
 
Water changes are not only to reduce pollution, they also supply trace elements that are needed by the corals and removed by skimming and carbon. Even if you dont need to do them you still should.
 
Thank you for that information, although I am already quite aware of that...

Notice this:

Considering my Trates, and Phosphates stay 0 to very low I dont feel such a NEEEED to do them so often... although I should really be doing them at least once a month, even if they are small... to replace things that are lost...
Click to expand...

But thanks for clearing that up for everyone else reading...
 
Hammer is still slowly receeding, whats left of the torch is doing good...

The hammer is receeding but is still opening...


I believe its got STN, what is this caused by and how can I stop it.
 
Re: Serious Euphillia Problem!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7370747#post7370747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106
Hey, about a week ago, I had noticed that my frag of Neon green pink tipped torch was not acting right, it was closed up, the tenticles where very scrawny and slim and it looked at though their where wholes in the tips...

a few days later after dipping it in seachem reef dip it finnally died...

I was very upset, but thought that maybe it got stung by something in the tank...

NOW... I have noticed my Wall Hammer has got a case of a receeding outer membrain and it is not opening fully..

I also have noticed today that my Other torch, yellow tipped, is doing the same thing as my green one...

I have already lost 1 full head of it , and several others are doing the same thing!!!!

I am really scared, and DO NOT want to loose my torch or hammer!!!!

Could this be a strontium deficency...

I have been useing RODI water, but I always add some Osmoprep by kent before I put it in the tank...

I use no additives usually, besides the occational DT's phto and Oyster eggs...

and I will occationally put some Nutra Sea Reef Energizer in, and I DO MEAN OCCATIONALLY!...

the NutraSea Reef Energizer has Ca, Iodine, Strontium, and molybdenum in it...

I think this company no longer exsists...


anyway...

What is causeing this and what could it be?

Tank specs are
75gallons
Tidepool 1 filtration
ASM g2 skimmer, just put on a week ago
Ca 480ppm
Alk 2.5meq/L
phosphates undetectable
nitrates undetectable, maybe 1 or 2 ppm
lighting is 440watts of VHO and 130watts of PC

they have been doing fine for almost a year untill now...

I recently did a waterchange but used IO... I work at a LFS so we can get it in boxes "store salt" is what its called, its just basically the normal everyday IO...

what is this? Can I save my Euphillias?
Click to expand...
What is your SG/salinity at? How do you measure it?
What is the aquarium temp.?
I strongly suggest adopting a different method of supplementing Ca and alkalinity.
What fishes do you have?
 
I second the above. Water changes are not only meant to add trace elements, but possibly in your case, to reduce them as well. Do check on the above, and if you have accurate means of doing so, do a substantial water change (~50%)
 
SG is at 1.026 to 1.027 depending on evap.

I measure it with a SEATEST Hydrometer by Aquarium Systems that I have had for 7 years...

Yes I am VERY aware of the inaccuracy of hydrometers... but when compaired to a lab grade floating hydrometer it is only .001 off...

Temp seems to stay 76 to 78... a little low I know.

I strongly suggest adopting a different method of supplementing Ca and alkalinity
Click to expand...
\

Why? I have been dripping Kalk... but lately I find myself being lazy and finding it easier to just mix up a batch of TurboCal whenever I need it...


What fishes do you have?
Click to expand...
No, my fish arent eatting them...



Water changes are not only meant to add trace elements, but possibly in your case, to reduce them as well.
Click to expand...
I agree



I did a 18 gallon WC Yesterday useing IO , and beefed it up useing Turbo Cal and SuperBufferDKH

nothing seems to have happend..


Everything is the same... the Torch is recovering I believe but the Hammer is still receeding... I believe it has STN or RTN... I would say its STN because its not SUPER FAST but its not all that slow either...


BTW: reminding you that ONLY these Euphylias are doing this... the Frogspawn is fine and so are all the other corals I have... which Include Acros, Monti, Yellow Leathers, Shrooms, Zoathids, Bubble, Xenia, Hydno, Turbinaria, And Pipeorgan... etc...
My Clams are fine too...
everything else is fine.. JUST these Euphylias...

whats the deal??

Im going to go mix a batch of Kalk to be ready for tomorow.. Useing Kents Kalkwasser mix....
 
I also seem to be having a Dinoflag problem too...

Ive got that coffee,brown colored mat on the substrate that if you look closely there appears to be tiny short hairs on it..

Fairly sure its Dinos


Not red Cyno, and not Diatoms...

what are your thoughts to trying to get rid of this stuff???

Could there be any correlation?
 
76-78 F. water temperature is fine.
It's not uncommon for people using hydrometers to have several of them (to double check accuracy). I would get a refractometer. (You can find decent ones for under $50 nowadays.)
Too bad you couldn't answer the fishy question. It's tough enough to try and help people without seeing what's going on first hand. Do you have a Bicolor Blenny by chance?

"Torch" and "wall hammer" are among the most sensitive types of Euphyllia. I've seen Iodine dips and/or fraggings save Euphyllia with tissue necrosis.
I'd carefully siphon out whatever brown stuff is growing on your substrate.
How's the new skimmer operating?
Any time there is a change and something suddenly goes bad I wonder if there's some type of correlation.
Was there a recent reason to feel the need to add a skimmer?
 
My guess would be chemical aggresion from the Leather corals.If your not already,start useing aggresive carbon filtration.I think 76 is on the low side of optimal but i wouldn't think that it is a causitive factor in the corals condition.IME,Euphyllia spp. are tolerant of dips but i would only do a dip if its a "brown jelly" infection.
 
Too bad you couldn't answer the fishy question. It's tough enough to try and help people without seeing what's going on first hand. Do you have a Bicolor Blenny by chance?
Click to expand...

No, no Blennys at all...

the fish I do have are:
Achilles Tang
Regal Tang
Powderbrown Tang
Royal Gramma
Blue Reef Chromis
and 2 Neon gobies yellow/blue


Lets not get on the " your tanks too small for those tangs " I am already aware and have been of that...
210g in planning... so lets just skip that part...


I would get a refractometer
Click to expand...
Yes, Ive been meaning to do that... haha

I've seen Iodine dips and/or fraggings save Euphyllia with tissue necrosis.
Click to expand...
I did dip the torch in SeaChems Reef Dip and that seemed to help...

I dont have anymore to dip the hammer... but would that dip save it from STN/RTN?

I'd carefully siphon out whatever brown stuff is growing on your substrate.
Click to expand...
Ive done it 50,000,000 times already..
no seriously, 3 or 4 times... still comes back...

How's the new skimmer operating?
Click to expand...
Very well... pulling out a good bit of stuff!

Was there a recent reason to feel the need to add a skimmer?
Click to expand...
Mainly because of this Algae from %^&#, and because I knew not haveing a good enough skimmer was not helping... and knowing that I couldnt put a fuge on their ATM wasnt helping either....

But it all started with my Green Torch frag... that died before I got the ASM G2...
Also, the algae was already present before the skimmer.



My guess would be chemical aggresion from the Leather corals
Click to expand...

I wondered that myself..
I do have 4 yellow tonga/figi leathers... 1 is about 6 to 8 inches across and the other 3 are small... 1 inch here 2 inch there...

But My big one is just not all that happy now-a-days

Euphyllia spp. are tolerant of dips but i would only do a dip if its a "brown jelly" infection.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is why I dipped the torch.. I also dipped the green frag when It was not doing so hot but that didnt do a thing...
 
If you've had a prior brown jelly infection with one of your corals,its possible it spreaded.That crap is tough,I had to do 2 seperate direct Lugols applications as well as blast the dead tissue/jelly substance off with some tank water.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7406185#post7406185 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106





I agree



I did a 18 gallon WC Yesterday useing IO , and beefed it up useing Turbo Cal and SuperBufferDKH

nothing seems to have happend..
Click to expand...

If there are any possible toxicity effects, 18 gallons would have little effect--what I was referring to was along the lines of a 25-35 gallon water change. If you do this, that could at least eliminate one possible cause.

On the other hand, if there is a serious protozoan infection (such as some "brown jelly" infections), then freshwater dips may help.
 
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