Serpentisaccus - New Purple Firefish

EricGRIT

New member
1. How old is this aquarium?
One week (QT tank)

2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level?
0

3. What is SG of this aquarium? How measured?
1.025 - Refractometer

4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium?
One week (QT)

5. Was it quarantined? If so, how? And how long? Was it prophylactically treated? How?
Currently in QT

6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When?
No copper-based, but I am using Seachem Paraguard while fish are in QT.

7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer?
N/A

8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? What color?
Two egg sacks hanging out of his right gill area. Compared to pictures of Serpentisaccus online and it looks just like it.

9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish?
Hangs out at the bottom but swims around to get food no problem.

10. Is the fish eating? What?
Mysis, NLS Pellets, Marine Cuisine


I'm wondering if anyone has any tried and true methods to remove this parasite. I've heard that a freshwater dip may cause it to leave the host but haven't heard anything 100%. I'm assuming the Paraguard isn't going to do anything for him. Ripping the thing out seems to be iffy at best - probably killing the fish.
 
Take the fish back. Alternatively physically remove the eggs and then leave the fish in quarantine for a couple of months for observation.
 
Oh boy, not what I wanted to hear. Purchased online so there's no returning it. Thank you for the feedback, though.
 
It might be this one: Serpentisaccus magnificae gen. et sp. n., a Copepod (Caligoida: Lernaeoceridae) from the Firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica Fowler, 1938

It's a crustacean parasite. The recommended treatment is Trichlorfon (Dylox) - 1 mg per 1 liter for 2 to 3 days. Only to be uses in a hospital tank.
It is also toxic to fish so use it with caution and keep an eye on the fish to stop the treatment as soon as it shows signs of distress.

I think there was another fish treatment that kills all crustacean - I just can't remember the name anymore.
 
Last edited:
It might be this one: Serpentisaccus magnificae gen. et sp. n., a Copepod (Caligoida: Lernaeoceridae) from the Firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica Fowler, 1938

It's a crustacean parasite. The recommended treatment is Trichlorfon (Dylox) - 1 mg per 1 liter for 2 to 3 days. Only to be uses in a hospital tank.
It is also toxic to fish so use it with caution and keep an eye on the fish to stop the treatment as soon as it shows signs of distress.

I think there was another fish treatment that kills all crustacean - I just can't remember the name anymore.

Yes this is what I believe it to be.

I tried a freshwater dip for 5 minutes today with no success, but I can try it a couple more times. Definitely open to more options.
 
I would be careful with insecticides if there is no record about it being safe for fish.

Other things you can try:

1. Formalin dips: 30 t0 45 minutes. I'm using now Fishvet's Formalin MS and their dosage for dips id 20 drops per gallon.

2. mechanically remove or damage the parasite: crustacean have an open blood circulatory system so any break in their shell (other than joints where they have closure mechanisms) will cause them to bleed out. I would do this only under a microscope to be sure not to injure the fish. You would also need very fine tipped tweezers.

3. interceptor may be a solution but since it doesn't even work reliably against all coral bugs I can't guarantee it will work against this parasite.
The other problem with interceptor is that you need to see a vet to get a prescription.

4. try a cleaner shrimp or wrasse - these are the parasites they live off.

If using Dylox make sure to precisely meter the volume of your treatment tank to get the dosage right. I would empty the tank completely and then meter exactly the amount of water I put in.
 
Noga lists Diflubenzuron as effective treatment (not sure if for fresh or saltwater).

As most effective treatment is manual removal recommended.
 
Thanks again, everyone. I'll see if I can figure something out. Maybe give him his own tank or something, or maybe someone else will want him. I'm definitely not putting him in my DT, even though it is relatively rare to have this spread (or even possible?).
 
Thanks again, everyone. I'll see if I can figure something out. Maybe give him his own tank or something, or maybe someone else will want him. I'm definitely not putting him in my DT, even though it is relatively rare to have this spread (or even possible?).

It is possible, but rare.
 
As I understand it these can and will spread rather quickly. So I would make sure he is clean before adding him to a tank with other fish.
 
Any suggestions on where to get Dylox 80? This Bayer grub killer contains Dylox, but who knows what else: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bayer-Advanced-10-lb-24-Hour-Grub-Killer-Plus-Granules-700740/202019111

The active ingredient in De-Los from NFP is triclorfon (Dylox 80): http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/NFP-products-De-Los-59570.Item.html

As Steve said above, this stuff is extremely toxic (organophosphate). You should be very careful administering and handling this compound.
 
Before I poison my fish with something that may not even work I would try to pick it off first - the chances for success are just better.
 
Back
Top