Several questions about LPS corals.

[salfegio]

The aquarium is running long ago. So a biological balance is a normal. Recently the corals had been placed inside the aquariums. It was plerogyra, euphyllia, zoanthus, favites, nemenzophyllia, palythoa, clavularia.
What to do next? What the parametres it's necessary to track? How i might to add Ca without Calc-reactor?Tell me more about Balling-methods, please. Must i measure necessarily the following parameters: Boron, Strontium, Iodine or enough to add every week from prodibio supplements (eg)? How avoid the bacterial infection of the corals?What a problems wait beginners marine aquarist, who want to keep in order the lps corals? I don't have algae-filter, thereby question arise "How reduce nitrate and phosphate?". I had attempted to reduce with help Chemi-pur elite, purigen, Seachem nitrate and phosphate minus (i have another small tank, who is contain many nitrate and phosphate). I did not see the results.

Big Thanks.

 

[droth335]

Hi Max,

I will try to answer your questions as best I can.

1) you do not need to measure Boron, Strontium or Iodine. If you do regular water changes (10%-20% per month) those elements will be replaced. Since your tank is well established you should only need to measure Calcium Nitrates, Magnesium, Phosphate.
2) how to add calcium without a CA reactor. I would suggest using Kalk in an Automated Top Off (ATO) system.
3) I would not worry to much about bacterial infections in your tank as I have never had one in 12 years of this hobby. You should dip new corals in a coral dip when you purchase them though.
4) To keep nitrates low be sure to have plenty of liverock (1-2 lbs per gallon) and don't overfeed. What are your nitrate levels now?
5) Granular ferric oxide (GFO) would be a good way to reduce phosphates (as well as be sure not to over feed) particularly since you don't have ac sump. How high are your phosphate levels today?

One additional question I would have is what type of lighting do you have for your tank? That would be a key to how well LPS coral will do in your tank.

 

[akitareefer]

Previous post is all good info. For nitrates and phosphates you should be fine if you are feeding properly, getting good flow, skimming and vacuuming.

Another key test to have is alkalinity! Very important for any tank with corals. Without kalk and and a calcium reactor you can consider 2 part dosing. Never use any of these methods without testing and getting a routine.

 

[salfegio]

I would suggest using Kalk in an Automated Top Off (ATO) system.

I hear this for the first time. What is it?

ac sump

I don't understood, what is "ac sump"?

I not measured nitrates and phosphates as yet.

One additional question I would have is what type of lighting do you have for your tank? That would be a key to how well LPS coral will do in your tank.

My tank is having now 6*t5 fluorescent lamp. In the future i want to have a very powerful diode lamp with a system sunrise-sunset with ability to let lightning and more and more))

For nitrates and phosphates you should be fine if you are feeding properly, getting good flow, skimming and vacuuming.

Vacuuming? what is it?

 

[droth335]

Kalk is short for kalkwasser which is German for lime water and is really calcium hydroxide. Here is a link to a kalk product available from BRS:
http://reefbreeders.com/faq.html

The easiest way to dispense kalk is through an automated top off system whereby water that evaporates from your tank is replaced with kalk water from a reservoir separate from your tank by means of a float switch and a small pump. The kalk is mixed with ro/di water (not saltwater) in the reservoir so it is used to replace the evaporated water. Here is a link to the ATO product I use but there are several good ones available in the market:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/jbj-a-t-o-water-level-controller.html

And a good article on kalk in the aquarium by Randy:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php

Regarding the "ac sump" - that was just a typo on my part. The sentence should have read "since you don't have a sump". Sorry!

Your lighting should be fine for soft and LPS corals and akitareefer is correct about testing alkalinity - I had meant to list that as a test to do regularly.

Vacuuming is the process of removing detritus - usually when you are performing a water change. I like to use a turkey baster and blow the detritus off the rocks and then vacuum the sand bed with something like this:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/jbj-instant-siphon.html

Hope this helps. Good luck with your tank!

 

[Don Quixote]

I would culture macros alongside corals. They are a huge asset in keeping things stable. Dragons breath, Caulerpa Prolifera, Red grape are some easy to keep and faster growing specimens.

 

[Fishypapa]

2) how to add calcium without a CA reactor. I would suggest using Kalk in an Automated Top Off (ATO) system.

Dave, just curious but why would you favor Kalk over 2-part Ca/Alk ?
I've used both and find it easier to just add the 2-part each night.

 

[droth335]

Dave, just curious but why would you favor Kalk over 2-part Ca/Alk ?
I've used both and find it easier to just add the 2-part each night.

Both are effective methods and in my opinion it comes down to personal preference. I prefer the ease of filling up my ATO top off every 10 days with ro/di water and kalk rather than a dosing pump or manually dosing each day.

 

[Fishypapa]

Both are effective methods and in my opinion it comes down to personal preference. I prefer the ease of filling up my ATO top off every 10 days with ro/di water and kalk rather than a dosing pump or manually dosing each day.

Ah ok. I thought I might have been missing something. haha
Doesn't the Kalk though cause an increase in alkalinity? (I have a 1/2 g of BRS kalk but only used it once so i'm just curious)

 

[wolfenstein87]

"How reduce nitrate and phosphate?"

Like others have said, nitrates and phosphates can be controlled by not over feeding and regular water changes (5-10% weekly/biweekly). Phosphates can also be introduced into your tank if you are using tap water. If you don't already have an RO/DI system, get one. This will be your best investment in keeping your tank stable. Excess food and animal waste will cause your nitrates to build up if your tank does not have the proper amount of bacteria to break it down. Quick fixes can include putting carbon in your filters and skimming. Make sure you have plenty of porous rock in your tank for the best form of filtration e.g. pukani. My tank does not have any filter medium or skimming equipment and is completely managed by rock, sand, and weekly water changes.

The best advice I have ever received is "don't dose what you can't test for". Also, really pay attention to how your livestock behaves. You'll know when something isn't happy.

Hope this helps.

 

[Fishypapa]

Like others have said, nitrates and phosphates can be controlled by not over feeding and regular water changes (5-10% weekly/biweekly).

+1 although I'd say 10-20% w/biw

Phosphates can also be introduced into your tank if you are using tap water. If you don't already have an RO/DI system, get one. This will be your best investment in keeping your tank stable.

+1 and it saves money over buying it from the LPS in the long run.

Excess food and animal waste will cause your nitrates to build up if your tank does not have the proper amount of bacteria to break it down. Quick fixes can include putting carbon in your filters and skimming.

Nitrate and Phosphate will accumulate to some point anyway but yes fish waste and excess food will cause it to do so faster. Carbon and skimming do little if anything to remove these though. Good husbandry is the best way to deal with it. Otherwise, run GFO and dose Vodka or Vinegar for nitrates.

Make sure you have plenty of porous rock in your tank for the best form of filtration e.g. pukani. My tank does not have any filter medium or skimming equipment and is completely managed by rock, sand, and weekly water changes.

Right! This is a great tip. You def. want porous rock and a good amount of it so the bacteria have a place to live and reproduce to do the filtering.

The best advice I have ever received is "don't dose what you can't test for". Also, really pay attention to how your livestock behaves. You'll know when something isn't happy.

Absolutely!