shackscs
Super Premier Member
Well the move is on. Purchased a new home and the first thing after the “Honey Do†list is the construction of my “Man Cave†in the unfinished basement.
I was lucky or unlucky depending on how you look at it to pick up the following equipment that was used for a freshwater setup, yes, freshwater:
220 Oceanic cherry 3 sided starphire glass, ¾†brick style (no center brace) tank 72â€ÂX24â€ÂX30†with dual overflows. True 220 as the previous owner was adamant about the internal glass height being 30â€Â.
Oceanic Cherry Stand
72†Solaris H Series LED light fixture (Replaced power supplies and now working on the LED boards) Pretty nice fixture. Most likely to be an LPS softy tank unless I put SPS higher. It is currently on my 125 and it looks sweet but the light is directed directly beneath the fixture and not out. This is going to be rather problematic as the intended tank is 24†wide.
CO2 tank, controller, and regulator (All I need now is a good Calc reactor.)
Freshwater Reactor
Pin Point pH Controller, wireless thermometer, pH and temp probes
Neptune Aqua controller III with pH and Temp probe and DC8
1/3 HP Chiller
1:1 RODI system complete with 70 Gallon holding tank and sensors to shut off the RO unit and turn on the feed pump. Not quite ATO as the previous owner used a remote to turn on the feed pump itself.
40watt Rainbow Plastics UV
2 300 Watt RENA Smart Heaters (Love these. Saved my tank once with the LED alert system)
Misc Mag Drive pumps to run Reactor and UV
Vortech MP40W
Some of the above equipment will not be used. Once I have started with the actual build I will list the particulars that will keep this tank running. I am planning on LPS, some SPS, and mostly tangs, probably 3-4 at the most and none of the tang busters. I will be stocking the tank with most of the corals and fish livestock from the 125 tank.
The basement area is 15’ by 85’. I am thinking I will need 4ft behind the tank to work comfortably on the 125 tank that I am considering using for the sump so a wall with go up at that point. On the opposite side of that wall will be the tank and 10 feet of Man Cave room with another wall acting as the entrance to the room.
So far this is what I am looking at:
The overall size of this room is 15 x 15. I can go longer but obviously not wider.
I am also planning on putting the bar on the right side of the tank. :lol: (What is it bars and reef tanks anyway?) :lol:The right side will hold bar stuff, glasses, shakers, etc. Both the bar and add-on will be the same cherry color as the stand.
The bar top will be oak stained cherry with many, many coats of polyurethane. This will also come out flush with the front of the stand that the tank is sitting on.
Because this is a 3 sided starphire tank, I will not be putting it in the wall as previously planned.
There is a 6†gap behind the tank before the wall. This will allow for locating any jumpers or other escapees that may be saved and put back into the tank. The previous owner did make an acrylic extension that rose about 4 inches above the top of the tank to keep jumpers at bay. I am not sure how this will with this new plan but we will see.
As I said since the basement is unfinished this will be a long build thread.
I have been lurking around and checking out some of the tanks of about the same size and reading to see problems may arise that I have not thought of. One of which is to have an electrical contractor come out and run a subpanel to the sump room. I will have to add access to water for the RODI system as well as a drain\sink for water changes.
I am looking for advice of what you may have done differently if you had to do it over again. Any other advice that you guys\gals can offer would be much appreciated.
I was lucky or unlucky depending on how you look at it to pick up the following equipment that was used for a freshwater setup, yes, freshwater:
220 Oceanic cherry 3 sided starphire glass, ¾†brick style (no center brace) tank 72â€ÂX24â€ÂX30†with dual overflows. True 220 as the previous owner was adamant about the internal glass height being 30â€Â.
Oceanic Cherry Stand
72†Solaris H Series LED light fixture (Replaced power supplies and now working on the LED boards) Pretty nice fixture. Most likely to be an LPS softy tank unless I put SPS higher. It is currently on my 125 and it looks sweet but the light is directed directly beneath the fixture and not out. This is going to be rather problematic as the intended tank is 24†wide.
CO2 tank, controller, and regulator (All I need now is a good Calc reactor.)
Freshwater Reactor
Pin Point pH Controller, wireless thermometer, pH and temp probes
Neptune Aqua controller III with pH and Temp probe and DC8
1/3 HP Chiller
1:1 RODI system complete with 70 Gallon holding tank and sensors to shut off the RO unit and turn on the feed pump. Not quite ATO as the previous owner used a remote to turn on the feed pump itself.
40watt Rainbow Plastics UV
2 300 Watt RENA Smart Heaters (Love these. Saved my tank once with the LED alert system)
Misc Mag Drive pumps to run Reactor and UV
Vortech MP40W
Some of the above equipment will not be used. Once I have started with the actual build I will list the particulars that will keep this tank running. I am planning on LPS, some SPS, and mostly tangs, probably 3-4 at the most and none of the tang busters. I will be stocking the tank with most of the corals and fish livestock from the 125 tank.
The basement area is 15’ by 85’. I am thinking I will need 4ft behind the tank to work comfortably on the 125 tank that I am considering using for the sump so a wall with go up at that point. On the opposite side of that wall will be the tank and 10 feet of Man Cave room with another wall acting as the entrance to the room.
So far this is what I am looking at:
The overall size of this room is 15 x 15. I can go longer but obviously not wider.
I am also planning on putting the bar on the right side of the tank. :lol: (What is it bars and reef tanks anyway?) :lol:The right side will hold bar stuff, glasses, shakers, etc. Both the bar and add-on will be the same cherry color as the stand.
The bar top will be oak stained cherry with many, many coats of polyurethane. This will also come out flush with the front of the stand that the tank is sitting on.
Because this is a 3 sided starphire tank, I will not be putting it in the wall as previously planned.
There is a 6†gap behind the tank before the wall. This will allow for locating any jumpers or other escapees that may be saved and put back into the tank. The previous owner did make an acrylic extension that rose about 4 inches above the top of the tank to keep jumpers at bay. I am not sure how this will with this new plan but we will see.
As I said since the basement is unfinished this will be a long build thread.
I have been lurking around and checking out some of the tanks of about the same size and reading to see problems may arise that I have not thought of. One of which is to have an electrical contractor come out and run a subpanel to the sump room. I will have to add access to water for the RODI system as well as a drain\sink for water changes.
I am looking for advice of what you may have done differently if you had to do it over again. Any other advice that you guys\gals can offer would be much appreciated.
