Shallow 75g SPS Build

Finally got around to installing the gfci receptacles and ethernet for the Apex. Now just waiting on the desk grommets to arrive so that I can get the Apex mounted.

 
For this build I decided to use Marco's key largo shelf rock.

http://www.marcorocks.com/dry-rock/key-largo/key-largo-shelf-rock/

This is probably my favorite rock out there. I love the amount of holes and porousness of the rock. This rock in particular is clean cut at the bottom which will be great for me as I think Im going with a bare bottom tank on this one. It sure comes in handy for shallow tanks.





I rinsed the rock off with tap water to remove any dust. After I soaked the rock in a vinegar solution to remove any traces of copper. After this, I gave the rock a dip into some RODI water mixed with Seachem Prime.



I set up a small separate 10g tank with about 8lbs of live rock thats been running for about two weeks now. Under the rock I have included Seachem Pond Matrix. The Matrix will be transferred into the main tank after some time goes by to establish some bacteria from the live rock. I also have 2 filter sponges inside the Aquaclear 70 to collect additional bacteria as well. Having the live rock seed these sources will not fully protect against unwanted pest but will sure reduce the likelihood by a large margin imo. This way the actual live rock doesn't need to be transferred into the main system. Ive been feeding the 10gallon tank with some raw shrimp to further increase the existing bacteria population in hopes that it will spread onto the Matrix and sponges. This will allow my main tank to cycle MUCH faster if not instantly.

 
Last edited:
Finally got to mix up some salt and get the tank up and running. I then rinsed out the filter sponge that I had been seeding in my ten gallon tank for the past 3 weeks, as well as the Matrix media. I left a large raw shrimp inside the filter sock for the past two days and to my surprise the ammonia content has remained 0ppm without any rise. I think the tank is cycled, but will still probably leave the shrimp in there until I get my fish. Boy, does the room smell awful though....
 
Last edited:
I still have tons of small tedious work to do, but really couldn't wait any longer on getting the tank filled. Now for mounting the apex.

 
And then there were PODS!







Still waiting on an additional Apex 8 outlet to come in so that I can move the ATO setup into the other room without being clustered over my water container.
 
Heres a pic of my live black worm setup I made recently. Only item I really needed was the acrylic which was $20. All remaining items were just leftovers. This is going to be my first time so hopefully all runs smoothly. I currently have the freshwater cycling in a bucket with some bio-max.





I didn't care for the two 1/4'' John Guest bulkheads so I decided to just remove them and put in a bulkhead.



I will have the media in the first chamber and a filter sponge in-between the drain and worm culture. All of this will be placed in a 14g rubbermaid tote.
 
My stocking list is looking like:

Two occellaris clowns
White tail bristle tooth tang
Midas or Tail spot blenny

I just picked up a set of clowns yesterday. Hard to get a picture as they are constantly swimming back and forth.





Day two they still are not eating. They didn't seem interested in pellets, PE mysis, or live blackworms. However, the second I added some of my live Tigger Pod culture into the tank they went into a feeding frenzy. Glad I have plenty of them on hand!
 
For the record, culturing live blackworms is a major PITA. I ended up throwing them out. The problem is that it is impossible to prevent them from going down the drain into the return pump or sufficating in the sump.

At first the live worm setup was set level at a very low turn rate with a sponge filter. The sponge filter was really useless as the worms went through it (surprisingly). I then decided to set it at an incline so that the drain sets at the highest point. This didn't provide even a dent in the results. The problem isn't the flow, but the worms themselves. They are simply just to active and climb over the baffles.

Personally, I no longer think the amount of work involved is worth the reward.
 
Just installed the screen cover for my aquarium's top. Really wish I would have went with Vortech power heads, instead of the Tunze. Tunze requires the cord to exit the aquarium, which makes the screen cover difficult to manipulate.



 
Back
Top