Shallow Seahorse tank

Nativeshark

In Memoriam
I have a trough I use as a fuge which is hooked up to my 300 gallon predator growout tank. it is only 10 inches deep. I can fill it up to 12 or 14 inches if needed. It is 18 inches wide and 48 inches long. it has a flow rate of 550gph. No pumps in the trough. Temp is at 74.

My main concern is the height of the tank.

Will this be good for seahorses? If not seahorses how about pipefish? How about both? Any species recommendations.
 
The reason that height is mentioned in seahorse care guides is that seahorses need tanks at least three times their height to reproduce - their courtship dances involve a lot of vertical movement (except in one species: Hippocampus capensis). Aside from that, the only height requirement is that it is tall enough for them to be able to swim around upright, and ideally have some vertical space to maneuver in. For that reason, I would fill it up to 12 or 14 inches. (By the way, do your height measurements account for sand or not?)

The only other thing I would be concerned about is that the seahorses might get infected by a pathogen that was introduced by one of your predators (I assume that they are wild caught?). The problem with seahorses' immune systems is that they have a lot of trouble adapting to foreign pathogens once they have reached adulthood; any captive bred seahorses you buy will only have encountered and learned how to fight the kinds of pathogens found in captivity, so they will be vulnerable to any foreign pathogens that your predators brought in on them. (Ditto for pipefish, though they are perhaps a bit more hardy.) While getting wild caught or tank bred seahorses might solve this problem, they would in turn be much more difficult to keep alive than captive bred ones. None of this is necessarily a deal-breaker, but it's important to be aware of it if you do go through with this.

While the height of the tank is fine for seahorses, pipefish would have no problem with it at all. So, you could definitely get both seahorses and pipefish, just the former, or just the latter. It's your choice. As for species recommendations... well, if you get seahorses, you might look into getting Hippocampus fisheri, since they are some of the shortest captive bred species available. On the other hand, in a tank that large, you might not ever be able to find them. In terms of hardiness, your best bet would be Hippocampus erectus, which, coincidentally, are also the easiest to obtain. Hippocampus reidi are also hardy, but they are among the taller species of seahorses, so it might be better to avoid them. Hippocampus kuda would also be fine; they are not as common on the market as H. reidi or H. erectus, but ORA, Seahorse Source, and Ocean Rider breed them, and I think that Live Aquaria now stocks ORA H. kuda as well as the wild caught ones. As for pipefish, I suggest you take a look at Fused Jaw(.com): they have a series of articles on the subject of keeping pipefish, including an overview of the species better suited/more available for aquaria. Also, I should mention that Ocean Rider now offers a species of pipefish, making them the first and only ones to regularly breed and sell a pipefish species.

The only other thing I am concerned about is the flow rate. Now, for the record, I have no idea whether or not 550 gph is too much for seahorses. GPH is not an accurate indication of the speed of the current in the tank, so it may be just fine - there is no way to tell from that number alone. However, since we really can't say whether or not 550 gph is appropriate for seahorses, I suggest you make sure that there is a "peaceful" area of the tank by, for example, using live rocks to block off a corner (not completely, since you need to leave space for the seahorses to enter it, but sort of like how people use those really tall trees as windbreakers). Seahorses can deal with much more current than most people assume, but since they use only their one little fin to swim around, it is important that they have a low-flow area to which they can retreat when they are tired out. So as long as you make sure that they have somewhere sheltered to retreat when they get tired, the current - whatever it is - should be just fine.
 
Thanks for the great information. The fuge is bare bottom with cheato and caluperia. The flow comes from my overflow tube underwater. It isn't creating a powerful current like a powerhead.

A few more ?s.


Is barebottom bad?
Should I add a baffle or block off an area and give the seahorses less room?
Which are easier to breed fisheri or erectus?
 
Barebottom is not bad at all. It just means that you can easily vacuum up uneaten mysid shrimp, which makes nutrients easier to manage and keeps the system more sanitary in general.

I don't see any reason to give the seahorses less room. As long as there is a sheltered area - and a patch of caulerpa should suffice, I think - for them to rest in, they will be fine.

I can't say whether H. fisheri or H. erectus are easier to breed, simply because almost no one has bred or kept H. fisher before (they were only discovered a couple of years ago, after all). Hippocampus erectus is generally considered the easiest large species to breed. On the other hand, Hippocampus fisheri was successfully bred on the first try, with the very first captive specimens - this was done by the staff at Wakiki Aquarium, though, so I am not sure how much it says about the relative ease of rearing their fry. I might be mistaken about this, but I think that H. erectus might actually have been the first (large) species of seahorse to be bred in captivity (in America, at least). Anyways, although I can't really compare the ease of breeding/rearing those species, if I were aiming to breed seahorses, I would go for Hippocampus erectus, simply because of the wealth of information about rearing their fry that has been amassed over the history of captive bred seahorses.

One last thing: if there are pipes on the end other end of the tank (leading to another one, I assume, since you said there were no pumps in this tank), be sure to cover them up so that the seahorses don't get sucked into them or wander off. You could use a simple mesh screen (pantyhoes, even) or some foam for this.
 
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