sick tang

The yellow acts much better but the brown patch has definitely spread.
Its now on his nose too
DSC_0607.jpg


MY powder blue now has signs too. His bottom fin has a brown spot. Also there are the white things on his pectoral fins.
DSC_0605aa.jpg

I dont think its ick, the white is kinda puffy looking like cotton.

I would dip your yellow tang in a product called hydroplex. You can find it at your lfs for around $30. It is excellent for bacterial/fungal infections. At the rate your describing what's happening to your yellow tang doesn't sound good. Take note, doing dips works the best. Adding it directly to the tank will hardly do anything. I bought it at my lfs for sum $30. Here it is, http://www.google.com/products/cata...KHNJaEywWB-JH_Ag&sa=image&ved=0CBMQ8gIwAzgA#p

My lfs owner swears by it and that's all he uses to treat sick fish. He's been doing saltwater for 15yrs.

If it's puffy like cotton as your describing for the powderblue then it could be a bacterial/fungal infection. I wouldn't do anything to fast and observe and see if it goes away. I'd treat the yellowtang.
 
A temp of 81 will not cause any problems. My tank runs 79 at night and 81 during the day. Been that way for years. Stability is more important then actual temp unless your going over 85 degrees then I would start to worry.

I would think that water quality would have something to do with it. I had a yellow tang get similar looking spots right after I did a flat worm treatment. After several large water changes he was back to normal. Keep up on the feeding and do some large water changes.

Large WC would be very beneficial, especially considering the waterquailty. I'd say go for at least a 40-50%. It wouldn't hurt anything. Unless you had very delicate corals which you don't. Make sure temp/salinity is the same when doing a big wc or any for that matter!
 
Ive been feeding a half sheet of nori daily, and also rods food twice daily. For the rods food i usually break off a piece about 1/2" wide and 1 inch long.

I would hold off on the rods food. I'd say every other day would be plenty, but considering you don't have a ton of corals or planktivor eating fish I would cut back. If you don't have proper flow and this stuff is settling at the bottom it will cause a lot of issues. Rotting food sitting at the bottom of the tank could easily cause a spike in ammonia and could be leading to your fishes problems. Make sure all the food doesn't go uneaten. It's hard to detect if rods food is eaten or not because some of the food is very very small.
 
+1 on large water change.

It is safe if you match the temp, salinity, and PH. You also want to mix the salt for at least 24 hours.

It's the lowest risk, and can greatly benefit sick livestock.

Get a QT set up today. I'd get at least a 20 gallon, and a divider to keep the fish separated.

I'd also pick up a second nitrate kit. A reading of 0 seems very unlikely for your setup, and high nitrates would be just one more sign that you are having water quality issues.
 
I thought about dipping him, but i was afraid the stress of me trying to catch him might make him worse

Sometimes the easiest solution (for you and the fish) is to drain half of your tank into plastic pail, remove as much rock as possible, and then catch with a small plastic container or net.
 
Just read that ruptured blood cells pouring into the the external mucus can cause reddening and discoloration.

This is most notable in fish like Yellow Tangs because of their color.

Possible causes are bacterial, parasitic, water quality, malnutrition, and stress.

1890087955.jpg
 
+1 on large water change.


I'd also pick up a second nitrate kit. A reading of 0 seems very unlikely for your setup, and high nitrates would be just one more sign that you are having water quality issues.

I do have two kits. Both are reading zero. I am not surprised, as i have a fairly small bioload, with a fairly large tank, over 200 lbs of rock, a dedicated refugium( deep sand bed in there with lots of both calerpa and chaeto.

I should also mention that i got the tank used, and i used cycled substrate. The tank only did a little mini cycle ( only had one damsel in there). I never saw ammonia, straight to nitrites.
 
I do have two kits. Both are reading zero. I am not surprised, as i have a fairly small bioload, with a fairly large tank, over 200 lbs of rock, a dedicated refugium( deep sand bed in there with lots of both calerpa and chaeto.

I should also mention that i got the tank used, and i used cycled substrate. The tank only did a little mini cycle ( only had one damsel in there). I never saw ammonia, straight to nitrites.

Looks like you got a good grasp on water with the refugium and testing, but even if your test are reading 0 a large water change would help out tremendously. If somethings wrong in your reef tank a water change can never hurt and would help out more than doing nothing. I agree with you and wouldn't bother catching your fish and setting up a QT because I too believe it would cause more stress. That's the last thing you want to do to a sick fish. Looks like you're assessing the problem very well..
 
+1 on large water change.

It is safe if you match the temp, salinity, and PH. You also want to mix the salt for at least 24 hours.

It's the lowest risk, and can greatly benefit sick livestock.

Get a QT set up today. I'd get at least a 20 gallon, and a divider to keep the fish separated.

I'd also pick up a second nitrate kit. A reading of 0 seems very unlikely for your setup, and high nitrates would be just one more sign that you are having water quality issues.

Triple T an uncycled QT tank can lead to a lot more problems than just the ones he/she currently has. For example, ammonia burn is very common on a newly set up tank which has ammonia/nitrite spikes. The bacteria/fungal infection would escalate into something far worse.
 
Triple T an uncycled QT tank can lead to a lot more problems than just the ones he/she currently has. For example, ammonia burn is very common on a newly set up tank which has ammonia/nitrite spikes. The bacteria/fungal infection would escalate into something far worse.

QT should involve seeded media from the display tank, and/or frequent small water changes. And frequent water testing.

If these can't be done, then yes, I agree.
 
ok , i do have another tank...a 30 gallon . Its about 2 months older than this one. It has a damsel, a condy anemone, some crabs, some snails, a candy cane, a frogspawn.... a brain coral. ( not much as most of the stuff has been moved to the tank with issues.)

The water on that tank is very good quality. Everything tests out zero.
It has a canister filter on it ( fluval 305). I am running carbon, and purigen in that canister.

I could use that as a hospital tank, as long as i dont run copper ( think). I would have to remove the carbon. I can even move inhabitants, if need be.
Would that be a good idea?

Since i dont know if this is gram neg or pos....or if its a fungus...or what the heck is going on.....What would i treat them with?
 
Too much stress trying to catch the fish. If it were me I'd just let things be. Taking him from one tank to another really wouldn't do much. If you can't identify what it is then why treat him with something that may not work. All that time catching him may be for nothing. Keep him well fed and WC's are key.
 
You say the Yellow Tang is showing improved behavior and eating habits.

But the Powder Blue is now showing new symptoms.

So it's a mixed bag.

If this were my tank, I would do a 50% water change, hoping there is a water quality issue that I can't test for.

And continue to focus on feeding that Yellow Tang everything he'll eat, soaked in supplements. I'd visit every LFS today and come home with either Selcon or Kent's Zoe (and Zoecon if they have it).

KM3295_99.jpg


I'd also add a Polyfilter pad or Pura pad to my sump to eliminate a variety of possible stressors.

MN3311_99.jpg


If they show improvement, I would do yet another 50% water change.

If they worsen...

I would catch them and administer treatment. If you have to re-purpose your other tank for this, so be it. But it sounds like you'd be better off purchasing a new QT tank and a cheap sponge filter. The AquaClear HOB filters are also convenient for QT tanks.

images


img8873583med.jpg


As far as a dip or other treatment, I'm not sure what to recommend. Hopefully others have a better idea of the ailments and best treatment.

But I would avoid meds and QT until I felt I had no other choice, and was somewhat confident in the diagnosis.
 
Back
Top