Sigh. How does this map look?

Bent

I got nothin'
So I took some time today to map out the sump, fuge, ato and salt mix station. I THINK I have it worked out. Bear with me and try to follow it, and let me know what you think.

231CD702-E749-431C-8B10-0AD742525AA1.jpg
 
Well that is comprehensive. Everything looks good to me. That is about 95% the way I have my system set up. I just do not have a UV or GFO yet but will have it set that way. On the RODI unit I do not use a solenoid, timer, and relay. My set up is just uses the float valve and auto shutoff valve from BRS.
 
THANKS!

I used the solenoid and float valve for a couple reasons. I wanted an auto shut off in case the float valve failed for some reason, and I'm paranoid enough to really want a float switch tied to the R/O unit itself so that if the solenoid fails, and the float fails, then the float switch would shut the whole system down.

I'm thinking about getting the ATO from avast. It looks nice, and has a peristaltic pump.
 
Pretty well thought out, one add you might want to do since you've just about got it there anyway (or maybe you planed it already and it just doesn't read to me in the block diagram, a bit blurry on my screen) is an auto refill for the RO Container.

Just need a high and low float, a relay and the solenoid which you already have by the looks of it.

You could pretty easily also set up auto water change if it's not in the current plans as well.
 
Yeah the auto refil on the container is there.

R/O feeds the container, solenoid times it, float valve will stop the flow if the solenoid fails. The float switch will shut off the R/O if the solenoid and float valve both fail. (Call me paranoid.)

The water change method I'm planning will go as follows:
1: pull the ball valve and drain the R/O water into the mix container.
2: pour the salt in and turn on the mix pump and the heater.
3: pull the ball valve on the sump and drain the sump.
4: turn on the pump to pump the new water in the sump.


HOPEFULLY, that's how it will work.
 
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