So I've got AEFW...

Did you say you have not seen any worms or any eggs? How do you know you have aefw? Is there visable damage?



If you actually have them I would turkey baster for a few weeks to get the numbers in check and make sure the acros are healthy and strong before dipping. Then I would do weekly dips from the tank and put them back after each dip. Once you have beat the aefw then you can overhaul and clean the rockwork. Doing it all at once is just asking for the corals to rtn ime. Also I would use revive or melafix so you can clearly see worms coming off the coral and it's much easier to do dips without worrying about Bayer getting into the tank and killing off stuff.



Also heard good things about flatwormstop and turkeybasting with it. Probably won't rid the tank of aefw but most people rarely see a spot with damage. I wouldnt bother spending the money on coral booster since flatwormstop stop does what it's supposed to do, they are just trying to sell an extra bottle if you ask me.



Undertai, Dr. G dip is for red bugs... Not an in tank treatment for aefw.



Thanks Piper.

I saw some tissue damage on a few acros, but have so many that 90%+ have no signs.

I've never seen any eggs on any of the corals either.

When dipping the damaged corals some flatworms have come off - leading me to believe they were AEFW.

I have two frag tanks plumbed to the same system that I will move the cut corals to for the duration of the dipping process. I realize this is not ideal as they are not 100% separate systems, but it is what I have to work with.

If I don't remove the rocks with encrusted acro bases and kill the bases in darkness IMO it will take longer to eradicate the worms as they will have a large constant food source for months(that won't be dipped) to eat and multiply while I dip the colonies in the frag tanks.

I dipped everything in Coralrx pro when I introduced the Acros to the tank, but that failed so now it's Bayer for me. I pour out most of the dip solution after I'm done dipping corals and then add water to clear it up so that I can see what has been killed.




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Problem with a lot of the AEFW fish/shimp is that's one of the last things it wants to eat. If you feed well they wont real go after them much.
I did talk to a guy that pickup 10 6 line and that seem to control the problem.
but 6 lines maybe a new problem with other wrasses.

Best you can do is control with a mix of fish, basting, removal if you see them or eggs, and Zovit flatworm stop. Lots of reefer live with them.

Do you have a manjo wand? if so just zap around the arco and you will see them running. you can zap them with it too but will leave a spot of the acro.
 
Frag tanks attached to the system is actually ideal imo. Same water really helps things stay stable and there is no need to move to another tank to dip the corals. A lot of people say this is best but I only suggest it if the other tank has similar water and is a very mature tank. It's just so hard/risky to move large acro colonies to other tanks all at once. Some will take a turn just from being positioned under a different light angle or flow and this is what aefw pretty on, weak acros.

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Problem with a lot of the AEFW fish/shimp is that's one of the last things it wants to eat. If you feed well they wont real go after them much.

I did talk to a guy that pickup 10 6 line and that seem to control the problem.

but 6 lines maybe a new problem with other wrasses.



Best you can do is control with a mix of fish, basting, removal if you see them or eggs, and Zovit flatworm stop. Lots of reefer live with them.



Do you have a manjo wand? if so just zap around the arco and you will see them running. you can zap them with it too but will leave a spot of the acro.



Thanks. I can't see any on the corals themselves, and am dosing flatworm stop and coral booster daily.


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