Solaris Led lighting systems
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Sorry, wasn't specific. I put the brakes on because of the quality issue. I sent Pat an email to let him know about the quality issue post. He's in Mexico, but I thougth I'd post his reply:
"The 14" units are from are original order back in April of 2006. We ordered a bunch, and for a lot of reasons we have stopped shipping the 14" units out. All the quality control issues that have been fixed with all the other lengths have not been fixed with the 14" unit because they are still from the original batch. If you read the first posts back in August of 2006 you will find a familiar sound. Moving forward since January 2007 this has not been the comments.
I have been in Mexico for the past week and not due back until Wednesday. I am not currently up to speed on his problem, and what we have done to correct it. I am sure that within the next week we will have his problem solved."
"The 14" units are from are original order back in April of 2006. We ordered a bunch, and for a lot of reasons we have stopped shipping the 14" units out. All the quality control issues that have been fixed with all the other lengths have not been fixed with the 14" unit because they are still from the original batch. If you read the first posts back in August of 2006 you will find a familiar sound. Moving forward since January 2007 this has not been the comments.
I have been in Mexico for the past week and not due back until Wednesday. I am not currently up to speed on his problem, and what we have done to correct it. I am sure that within the next week we will have his problem solved."
Well, looks like there's a competitor for PFO's Solaris:
http://www.aquaillumination.com/
They claim to be brighter than the Solaris 400w, more efficient, cheaper (?), expandable, 24 hour burn in/test of every unit, AND built in the USA. Availability is about 6 weeks.
No, I don't work there - I'm just shopping for a replacement for my 400w MHs, and I don't want to buy a chiller.
http://www.aquaillumination.com/
They claim to be brighter than the Solaris 400w, more efficient, cheaper (?), expandable, 24 hour burn in/test of every unit, AND built in the USA. Availability is about 6 weeks.
No, I don't work there - I'm just shopping for a replacement for my 400w MHs, and I don't want to buy a chiller.
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Amphibious
New member
I'm not sure how Aqua Illumination can make that claim since the 400W Solaris isn't even out yet. I searched their web site and didn't see any of the features you mention. Where are you getting that info from? They claim to be taking pre orders but their shopping cart doesn't work.
Time will tell.
xinumaster
reef addict
I send them (Aquaillumination) an email and they reply back a minute after. Your right their very responsive.
heuerfan
Active member
Where did i mention in my post that your clams weren't healthy or gaping? I merely pointed out my experience with clams under power compacts and then how they looked when i upgraded to halides. When i had my clams under power compacts i got tons of slack because of how their mantles looked, exactly like yours.
My point is when i upgraded to halides they stopped doing this. Post that pic in the clam forum and see what they say.
ReefingBuddha
New member
Hi everyone.
I Have been following this thread for a while and have found it very useful in making my decision to use Solaris lights for my new reef tank project.
I am building a 470 gallon 60" x 60" x 30" tank that will be viewable from all 4 sides. I will be caring primarily for SPS corals, particularly Acros. I have had some concern about the abilities of the LED lighting but feel better now that the 400w versions are available.
Now, the question I have concerns the configuration of hte lighting system. I have played around with different length H4 configurations ranging between 3 and 5 fixtures. I think that 3 of the 48" fixtures might do the trick but as the lights are recommonded to come up to hte edge of the tank perhaps 3 of the 60" models would work better. I am looking for hte maximum amount of useable light possible in my setup and would appreciate any help that I could get.
I am very excited about this new advancement in the hobby and can't wait to test the lighting system myself. I am attempting to create a cutting edge efficient system and this will certainly help.
Any help will be greatly appreciate. Thank you
I Have been following this thread for a while and have found it very useful in making my decision to use Solaris lights for my new reef tank project.
I am building a 470 gallon 60" x 60" x 30" tank that will be viewable from all 4 sides. I will be caring primarily for SPS corals, particularly Acros. I have had some concern about the abilities of the LED lighting but feel better now that the 400w versions are available.
Now, the question I have concerns the configuration of hte lighting system. I have played around with different length H4 configurations ranging between 3 and 5 fixtures. I think that 3 of the 48" fixtures might do the trick but as the lights are recommonded to come up to hte edge of the tank perhaps 3 of the 60" models would work better. I am looking for hte maximum amount of useable light possible in my setup and would appreciate any help that I could get.
I am very excited about this new advancement in the hobby and can't wait to test the lighting system myself. I am attempting to create a cutting edge efficient system and this will certainly help.
Any help will be greatly appreciate. Thank you
Amphibious
New member
thirschmann,
Wow, a 470 walk around that will be an awesome tank. Are you building it yourself?
All us Solaris lovers are excited about the new 400W units. You are correct that the lights should come to the edge of the tank ends. The reason is, unlike MH which bounces or spreads light all over the place, LED lighting is directed straight down into the tank. Consequently, the 6" on either end would have a shadowed effect. Three 60" models will cover the tank more evenly left to right. To get the same even coverage front to back may require raising the lights above the tank. The light spread increases as you raise the lights. You may have to play with that to get the coverage you are looking for or consider a fourth light.
Dick
Wow, a 470 walk around that will be an awesome tank. Are you building it yourself?
All us Solaris lovers are excited about the new 400W units. You are correct that the lights should come to the edge of the tank ends. The reason is, unlike MH which bounces or spreads light all over the place, LED lighting is directed straight down into the tank. Consequently, the 6" on either end would have a shadowed effect. Three 60" models will cover the tank more evenly left to right. To get the same even coverage front to back may require raising the lights above the tank. The light spread increases as you raise the lights. You may have to play with that to get the coverage you are looking for or consider a fourth light.
Dick
Im doin an experiment using a light mover on mine as it may reduce the need to have the entire tank covered with fixtures. Not sure how it will work out but worth a try.
Has anyone ever tried this before? Im looking at a Hydroponics type track system that has a time adjustable setting fro movement. If this works and doesnt effect coral growth it could mean the differnece of using 1 48" unit verse 2 units and saving the money on electricity to run it in lieu of a small wattage track motor to get the coverage.
I thought about the cloud cover in the real ocean as a natural dimming effect to a natural reef and this seemed like an obtainable goal with a track light mover.
KEEP in mind you can set the pause time at eitheir end of the track to a desired time so no one end would recive more light than the otherand overlapping would be minimal.
Just a suggestion and Ill post some results when I get this inplace. I could be off the deep end all together here.
Has anyone ever tried this before? Im looking at a Hydroponics type track system that has a time adjustable setting fro movement. If this works and doesnt effect coral growth it could mean the differnece of using 1 48" unit verse 2 units and saving the money on electricity to run it in lieu of a small wattage track motor to get the coverage.
I thought about the cloud cover in the real ocean as a natural dimming effect to a natural reef and this seemed like an obtainable goal with a track light mover.
KEEP in mind you can set the pause time at eitheir end of the track to a desired time so no one end would recive more light than the otherand overlapping would be minimal.
Just a suggestion and Ill post some results when I get this inplace. I could be off the deep end all together here.
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