SolaTubes for reef tanks

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You know this is what I have been wondering for a long time!! I am right at the tropics in Kerala the southern tip of India.
O have a 200gal Reef thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s ahmmmm OK. I have always wanted a large wall to wall tank in the sitting room. I was afraid; considering the cost of electricity and normal power outages in a developing economy.
This sola tube idea stuck me early on but I did not come across this forum. To-day I did.
Now I will start planning.
But there is a problem, my house is double storied and the tube has to go to the top. Any one who tried this?
I have 3-4 years gap for planning and slowly collecting all needed equipment. I plan to have a sump with Mangroves that will take care of the nitrates problem.
It is my hope that I will have a nice reef with seeded oysters that will not be harvested. So in times of need it will be a good investment!! A ready money source as the pearls would be really huge *smile*.
But I do not know how to decide all the equipments needed. Any body who can point me in the right direction?
Reef keeping is nascent in India. But we will catch up.
 
I am in the process of remolding my next house
The room I will have my next tank in faces east
So the tubes will be on the East side I will have them straight down I am planning on using the 20" tubes
So today the east side got sun from 7am to 5 pm
I am going to frame the 20" tubes in a false chimney
It will raise them to get more direct sun light
I think it make a big difference in the winter with the shorter days
But as plans go, I will have too se how things work out
Ken
 
I have a question for those of you with Solatubes installed. I have 3 14" Suntunnels installed, two face south, one faces east and we get lots of sun here. The tank will be 90X48X30 so I know the 3 tubes will not be enough to grow the types of high light corals I will be growing. Can someone advise me on a possible supplemental lighting scheme that would suit my needs? Here is my need list:
1. Lowest operating cost. I added to tubes partly to defer some of the electrical costs so I don't want to add a ton of wattage if I can help it.
2. Lower heat. I do not want to use a chiller. Halides are okay but not so many as to raise the temperature of the water.
3. The back portion of the tank can be darker, meaning every square inch of the tank does not need to be lit up.
4. Modestly high light. I don't believe in the "more is better" concept when it comes to lighting. To give an idea, I had 2 175 watt 10K with actinics on my standard 90 gallon. That was perfect to me. I am open to trying 6500 as recommended by Anthony Calfo.
Thanks.
 
Amanda,

I have (04) 54 Watt (48") T5HO's on my 90. (02) are the new Uri True Actinic and (02) are the Geismann Actinic Plus. These lights coupled with the Natural light are perfect for my Tort, Hoeki, Chips Acro, Tricolor, Milli's, other various SPS along with lots of softies and anemones.

T5's use relatively low wattage and produce very little heat. Personally I wouldn;t consider any other type of supplemental light for your setup.

Can;t wait to see some pics.

Later,

Jim
 
Hi Jim. I actually answered your post a few days ago but it didn't go through.
So are your T5s actinic only?
Anthony Calfo just told me that if I do want to do a shallow water Indo-Pacific biotope with some Yellow Fiji Leathers (I love this coral) that I should use as many halides as I would be using if I didn't have any tubes at all. He didn't think I would be impressed with the output of the tubes. It's hard to disagree with him since he grows coral with sunlight for a living but all the folks here seem to have success with the tubes. I may just buy a light meter to test how much output these tubes give off and compare it to a halide fixture. I'm pretty sure I will have to add some halides since the tank is 30" deep and with the 48" width it would take so many flourescent tubes to get good coverage. Perhaps I should get corals from slightly deeper waters than the Yellow Leather. I have so many decisions to make.
BTW the tank is going to be made from plywood sealed with epoxy with a glass front and side panel on one end. My husband is going to build it. If you are handy at all it's a very affordable way to get a large custom tank. I can't wait!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7670961#post7670961 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chihuahua6
Hi Jim. I actually answered your post a few days ago but it didn't go through.
So are your T5s actinic only?

I have (02) 54 Watt Uvi (Old Uri) T%HO Super Actinics and (02) Geissman Actinic Plus.

I'm pretty sure I will have to add some halides since the tank is 30" deep and with the 48" width it would take so many flourescent tubes to get good coverage.

Watt for Watt, you will get better PAR and coverage with T5's than Halides. Halides give you more of a Spotlight than Flood light coverage. Your previous post indicated you are concerned about energy consumption and heat. These are two reasons why I recommended T5's to you. As far as depth, your reef will only be 6"'s deeper than mine. I currently have Pink and Blue Stylo, Chip's Acro, Richmond Tricolor, and Green Milli at 18" from the waters surface and they are doing GREAT, with only (04) T5's and the (02) 10" Solar Tubes.

Just sharing what formula has worked well for me here. Best of luck with your decision.

Jim
 
Kochu welcome to reefcentral. :) I don't think you need intense lighting for oysters. If you are going to have other corals in your tank than invest in a lighting system.
 
"I am going to frame the 20" tubes in a false chimney
It will raise them to get more direct sun light "


That's a great idea :thumbsup: For people with a steep roof pitch or if your tubes are on the "wrong" side this would be an idea.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7342774#post7342774 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by onetrickpony
I am in the process of remolding my next house
The room I will have my next tank in faces east
So the tubes will be on the East side I will have them straight down I am planning on using the 20" tubes
So today the east side got sun from 7am to 5 pm
I am going to frame the 20" tubes in a false chimney
It will raise them to get more direct sun light
I think it make a big difference in the winter with the shorter days
But as plans go, I will have too se how things work out
Ken

WOW!!! That is good thinking for the location issue I have with the two I have to install, a "light chimney" great idea!!!

Tim:cool:
 
Nice thread. I currently researching solatubes for my 225. I about to move it into the garage and would like to doway with my MH and save some $$ on electricity. What are people doing about the UV filters on these types of skylites? Are you replacing the filter with something else (acylic)? Does it even matter?

Thanks
 
I am considering two 48" x 48" skylights like you, Herpervert. Mine will face south and be on a roof with an 8/12 pitch.
As the light enters the tank, I'm bound to get all kinds of different angles as the light bounces around the light tunnel. Rather than a diffuser at the skylight, I thought maybe using eggcrate as a tank cover. And maybe paint the eggcrate blue first.

Any opinions?

Joe
 
Couple Updated Pics

Couple Updated Pics

Here are some updated pics. I recently dropped back to (02) T5's from(04) because I was blocking a lot of natural light from the tubes.

Here ar a couple top down and other misc pics..

91022P8200059__Small_.JPG


91022P8200060__Small_.JPG


91022P8200061__Small_.JPG


91022P8200064__Small_.JPG


Just getting over a wicked case of Monti Eating Nudi's.. Sure you can see the destruction evident in my Orange Cap.

Later,

Jim
 
Couple of front shots from tonight, only T5's... I'll get some Natural light shots tomorrow...

91022P8200087__Small_.JPG


My red cap in the middle just got crushed by monti nudi's.. I had to frag him to get to all the Nudi's and Eggs...

91022P8200050__Small_.JPG


Later,

Jim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7984926#post7984926 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lordhelmet
thats an interesting way of mounting frags.

Yep. Filling up my glass with living corals.

Later,

Jim
 
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