Solenoid Valve help
- Thread starter gotzkill
- Start date
slief
RC Sponsor
Hate to break it to you but that is not going to work for your tank. First, it has a metal/brass housing that is not salt water safe. Secondly it is a DC 12V solenoid that will need an AC Adapter capable of handling 15 watts.
What you want is an all plastic or nylon 110v AC solenoid. Personally, I only use solenoids from STC Valves. They are a manufacturer and they make high quality solenoids that won't let you down. I've been using their solenoids on my tank for years now. While none have failed me, I always keep spares on hand. It comes with bare wire ends so you will need to add a power plug to the end of the wires. You can get the power plug from any hardware store. Also, you will need to use the relay outlets 4 or 8 on your EB8 as these are low current devices which won't work properly on the other 6 triac based outlets.
What you want is their 2P025 1/4 - 3 which is an all nylon/plastic, normally closed 110v solenoid with 1/4" female NPT threads. That will accommodate your john guest style push lock fittings.
You can find those valves here.
http://www.stcvalve.com/Process_Valves.htm#0
What you want is an all plastic or nylon 110v AC solenoid. Personally, I only use solenoids from STC Valves. They are a manufacturer and they make high quality solenoids that won't let you down. I've been using their solenoids on my tank for years now. While none have failed me, I always keep spares on hand. It comes with bare wire ends so you will need to add a power plug to the end of the wires. You can get the power plug from any hardware store. Also, you will need to use the relay outlets 4 or 8 on your EB8 as these are low current devices which won't work properly on the other 6 triac based outlets.
What you want is their 2P025 1/4 - 3 which is an all nylon/plastic, normally closed 110v solenoid with 1/4" female NPT threads. That will accommodate your john guest style push lock fittings.
You can find those valves here.
http://www.stcvalve.com/Process_Valves.htm#0
slief
RC Sponsor
Keep in mind that there are both normally closed and normally open solenoids. Normally closed remains closed until power is applied. I use solenoids for my ATO as a failsafe and to prevent siphoning. As such, I use normally closed and only open the solenoid when the ATO turns on. I also used a normally closed solenoid for my skimmer wash down. When I tell my Apex to power that outlet, the solenoid opens and tap water is sprayed into my collection cup. Co2 reactors are another example where normally closed is used. That said for a Co2 reactor, a brass solenoid similar to yours would be used since they are safer for high pressure.
There are some applications that a normally open solenoid may be useful. Those would include applications where you would want the solenoid open more than it is closed. Gravity fed dosing would be one application where the solenoid could be open more than it is closed. Most uses for a solenoid however would be for normally closed but I wanted to point that out.
What is your intended use for the solenoid? If it's for a calcium reactors Co2 input, you could probably make the one you have work despite the DC voltage. The key is not using metal based solenoids where they are handling water or fluids in a salt water tank environment. While they are fresh water safe, they are not ideal and should be avoided.
There are some applications that a normally open solenoid may be useful. Those would include applications where you would want the solenoid open more than it is closed. Gravity fed dosing would be one application where the solenoid could be open more than it is closed. Most uses for a solenoid however would be for normally closed but I wanted to point that out.
What is your intended use for the solenoid? If it's for a calcium reactors Co2 input, you could probably make the one you have work despite the DC voltage. The key is not using metal based solenoids where they are handling water or fluids in a salt water tank environment. While they are fresh water safe, they are not ideal and should be avoided.
Redman88
New member
to get that one to work you would need one of these
http://www.amazon.com/AMIGO-AMS3-12...=1406250016&sr=8-10&keywords=12v+wall+adaptor
and these
http://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio...id=1406250077&sr=8-1&keywords=spade+connector
How ever there is the brass parts so every thing else isn't worth getting
http://www.amazon.com/AMIGO-AMS3-12...=1406250016&sr=8-10&keywords=12v+wall+adaptor
and these
http://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio...id=1406250077&sr=8-1&keywords=spade+connector
How ever there is the brass parts so every thing else isn't worth getting
slief
RC Sponsor
What he means is that you have a brass solenoid so don't bother getting anything for it as it is not salt water safe. Obviously, he could have just omitted the parts list so as to not cause any confusion but his last sentence was pretty straight forward. There are brass parts in that solenoid so everything he listed isn't worth getting.
slief
RC Sponsor
I wouldn't use it. You don't any metal to come in contact with your tank water. This would include your filtered RODI water.
I also would strongly advise against gravity feeding water, especially kalk and using a solenoid valve for that. Solenoids fail and you will set yourself up for disaster. Not if but instead, when. Use a dosing pump instead and the solenoid for a failsafe.
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