D2X + 105mm VR + 68mm of Kenko tubes + SB-800 (hotshoe) + Feisol 3401 tripod + RRS BH-55. Camera on tripod with the ballhead in the knotch so that the camera is looking straight down. Lens manually locked at 1:1.
All 3 pods on the back of a opaque cup sitting on top of a white piece of paper.
That's basically all it is to it. The trickiest part is getting the object into focus with the lens locked at full magnification.
Very nice shots.
I believe with that setup those posted pictures were just a resize. it would be interesting to post a 100% crop to assess total magnification and sharpness, which I'm sure will be imressive.
I do use a similar setup fo extreem magnification with the following difference a shorter lens 50 mm 1.4 and a reversing ring over the extension tubes. Focusing is really difficult but you'll find it much easier if you get a macro forcusing rail. Using a focusing rail is easier to manipulate the camera instead of pushing the whole setup or your subjects up and down also it does not move from shot to shot. Using a wireless remote minimizes vibrations and also minimizes camera move which decreases your focusing efforts.
Last thing that i found usefull was to bounce the flash up into some white reflective material which decreases the hotspots on your subjects and gives you smooth illumination.
Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Yup, these are right off the camera with no cropping.
Looked at focusing rails awhile back but I don't do enough of these shots to really justify them. CDs/DVDs are pretty easy to work with in helping with focusing. Pictures were taken w/a 10 pin remote (the Nikon wireless remote for D2 series are crazy expensive...) and I'll have to try bouncing the flash next time. The hot spots that you see is from the water.
Eric,
I never knew there would be such a price difference with the woreless remote controls of the D2 Series and the rest. I got the wireless one for my D70s for less than 20 usd. Anyway I don't see any difference between using the wired one and the wireless the idea is not to cause any camera movement to avoid having to refocus.
Again these pictures are just great and I am just being over critical.
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