Sorta hit a wall - Water too clean?

Tuscaquatics

Active member
To get the details out of the way first - 75 gallon display with 100 lbs. live rock, 30 gallon sump/fuge with DSB, around 25 lbs. rock rubble and chaeto, Bubble Magus NAC6A skimmer, 4xT5s, 2 K3 powerheads.

Parameters - SG 1.025-26, pH 8.5, nitrates undetectable, phosphates undetectable. I try to keep calcium at around 460 and alk around 12 dKH, but it's not easy with the ridiculous coralline growth I have. I drip kalkwasser to maintain.

This tank has been up since March but everything except around 50 lbs. of the base rock came out of my 55 gallon that had been up since March '09.

Here's my problem. The tank has mostly soft corals aside from a couple anemones and a couple pieces of LPS. All of my livestock is doing great except for the absolutely most hearty softies, specifically mushrooms, Kenya tree and, to a lesser extent, xenia. They had been growing like crazy and acting normal for months, but now that I have everything under complete control, they seem to be acting goofy.

A lot of the mushies, especially the red ones are growing really tall with long, thin necks. Instead of lying next to each other peacefully against the rocks, they seem to all be stretching up and out as if they were competing for light, which I really don't think is the case since they don't need much light to begin with and they've never done it in the past.

Many of them, after stretching out for a few days, will begin to twist a bit at the necks until they break off. I know that mushrooms will jump off and go for a ride once in a while as they attempt to spread, but this is different, and is occurring on a larger scale.

The xenia is simply limp and somewhat bland. Not dead or dying by any means, just not doing well and certainly not spreading.

And the Kenya tree is acting incredibly goofy, especially considering that I've never had it do anything but spread exponentially and thrive under any conditions I throw at it. I have a huge shrub of it right up under the lights and in quite a bit of flow. It's seriously one of the bigger Kenya trees you'll see. The trunk of it is probably two inches in diameter. It's gotten quite accustomed to the high light and flow and always excelled. Lately, it's been giving off a ton of branches and falling over limp. Much of the time it closes it's polyps and turns white; if you have any you'll know what I'm talking about.

There are many satellite trees growing all over the tank and in the corners and most of them are open and looking fine, but the last couple of days a few of them are acting the same.

This is all so puzzling because everything else is excelling. My BTA just split and both of them look great and never act funny. I have an open brain that does fine on the sandbed. Green star polyps are taking over an entire large rock. Palys are covering huge sections of rock. Torch coral is growing on the sandbed. Heck, even the mushrooms and Kenya tree that aren't acting funny are doing fine.

And this has all started happening since I got my phosphates down to undetectable. My nitrates had been at zero since not long after I set things up, but I had some lingering phosphates from the new rock I added. I battled hair algae and bryopsis for a while, but that's long gone now and I have no nuisance algae in the display or fuge.

Could my water maybe be too clean for these soft corals? I don't have a lot of fish so I don't feed a ton and I don't dose phyto or zoo or anything like that. I had always thought that, even though they like nutrients in the water to a certain degree, they would still do well in extra-clean water or SPS-type systems.

What are your thoughts? Anybody else have problems like this?
 
how often do you do water changes?

I knew that would get asked, and I probably should have addressed it to begin with, but I figured my post was too long.

I don't do a lot of water changes. I tend to do a larger one less often. I changed about 30 percent around 6 weeks ago probably. I don't need them for nutrient control so I save the money for other stuff.

I'm glad you brought it up because it's something I wanted to discuss. What is it that would be depleted by the corals that I'm not replacing? Iodine? Trace elements? Can I dose these things or do I just have to do water changes? I know iodine is next to impossible to test for and trace elements, good luck.

It's still funny, though because I've gone longer without changing water and didn't have this problem. The difference truly seems to be the extra water quality.

I suppose I should just break down and do a water change and put that to rest as a possibility, but this is different than I've experienced in the past.
 
Come to think of it, another thing I did recently was run activated carbon for 10-14 days or so. Since then is when this has been happening.
 
i wouldn't say "to clean", but yes, you have changed your tank. some corals, the ones you named for sure, appreciate/thrive on slightly heavy nutrient loads. shrooms shrinking to me would be a sign of photo-inhibition, try to shade them. simple things like carbon can change the clarity of the water profoundly!

Interesting. Most of the shrooms I'm talking about are shaded. The Kenya tree is all over.

And, by the way, by "too clean" I don't mean that I think my water is anywhere near as clean as natural sea water. I just mean that I feel like it's reached a level of stability and low nutrients that would favor keeping LPS/SPS rather than a butt-load of softies. I'm wondering if having the lack of nutrients in a closed system might prevent them from eating what they need out of the water .

What about dosing phyto? I know that most corals don't eat it directly and that the verdict is still out on whether soft corals ever actually do, but maybe the extra bio-load might help. Or maybe I should try leaving my skimmer off sometimes. Could I be "over-skimming?"
 
IMO, I would start with weekly water changes around 10%. I would also feed the tank some zooplankton corals need food. phyto is for clams and feather duster worms and food for zooplankton, not for corals. i agree that the gac is causing some of the change, but i feel carbon should be used. Food seems to be the key in my reef, I also dose lugols at the min. dosage. With your sandbed and chaeto combined with the amount of animals in your reef, feeding the tank will only help it, and finally IMO, and here we go, you can't over skim a reef.
 
I have never used carbon in the 8 years of reef keeping. I agree with smaller water changes more often and instead of adding liquid foods I would add a few more fish and feed them things like copepods, plankton, and cyclpoeeze.
 
Could my water maybe be too clean for these soft corals?

Maybe.

Come to think of it, another thing I did recently was run activated carbon for 10-14 days or so. Since then is when this has been happening.

Could be the cause.

If your system was phosphate limited you probably wouldn't be seeing the growth that you say. Are your bulbs old? Is your temperature constant? No water changes can lead to trace element deficiency (iodine, iron, etc.). What every critter needs to be 100% is still relatively unknown.
 
thats some pretty high DKH and PH

I have more growth at 8dkh and a PH of 8.2

your water is not to clean and its not a matter of to few trace elements

I never run carbon or needed to, if you had SPS and are battling chemical warfare then yes run carbon. Softies and LPS dont need it.

Its true softies and LPS do well with less then perfect water but they flat thrive in clean water to. Ive seen more growth in clean water if truth be told

I would stop the carbon since it corrilates with your issues and tame down the dkh and ph

Im a fan of large water changes myself and I see no harm in what youve done so far as far as water changes go
 
Thanks, guys. You've been giving some great advice. I'll address some of your points.

That wasn't the first time I've run carbon. It's been a while, but I got some pretty good stuff and tried it because I was having cloudy water and I thought it might help clear it up. I don't think I'll run it again anytime soon.

My bulbs are less than a year old. I don't overdrive them or anything, so I think they're still fine. They're two ATI Blue Plus, one Aquablue Special and a KZ Fiji Purple. The more light-demanding corals seem to love it.

My pH is high because of the kalkwasser. I can't get it below 8.5 unless I let my calcium drop below 400. And do you really think 8 dKH would be the proper alkalinity for a calcium level of 460?

My temp is stable at around 78. Magnesium I keep around 1350.

And the phyto, it's funny you say corals don't eat it. I've been a firm believer that they don't, but you can go back in threads and see where I've argued this point with people and they don't believe me. Many people think soft corals directly eat phyto.
 
if you want your Kenya tree and Xenia and shrooms to do better

do not do a water change
do not change your light bulbs
do not run carbon

keep alkalinity below 11 dKH and allow pH to drop down to 8.0 -8.2

feed aquarium (anything!) heavily

Your first post was correct- the aquarium is "too clean" for these corals to thrive.
 
if you want your Kenya tree and Xenia and shrooms to do better

do not do a water change
do not change your light bulbs
do not run carbon

keep alkalinity below 11 dKH and allow pH to drop down to 8.0 -8.2

feed aquarium (anything!) heavily

Your first post was correct- the aquarium is "too clean" for these corals to thrive.

Then what is the proper alkalinity for a calcium level of 460 and magnesium of 1350? My pH isn't just going to fall to 8.2, especially without water changes.

Am I just running this system too clean for softies? Is it time to start thinking about getting rid of some of them and getting some more LPS and some SPS?
 
Then what is the proper alkalinity for a calcium level of 460 and magnesium of 1350? My pH isn't just going to fall to 8.2, especially without water changes.

Am I just running this system too clean for softies? Is it time to start thinking about getting rid of some of them and getting some more LPS and some SPS?
JMO:
don't get caught up in numbers.
Alkalinity above 11 dKH has NEVER been a good thing for corals in my aquariums. It's okay if calcium reaches 460- 500 ppm without a correspondingly high alkalinity IME.
Your pH will drop if you stop using kalkwasser for topoffs- but you already know that. There's no reason to fear allowing calcium, alkalinity and pH to drift downwards. Softies, LPS and LPS will all benefit no matter what direction you choose to go.
 
JMO:
don't get caught up in numbers.
Alkalinity above 11 dKH has NEVER been a good thing for corals in my aquariums. It's okay if calcium reaches 460- 500 ppm without a correspondingly high alkalinity IME.
Your pH will drop if you stop using kalkwasser for topoffs- but you already know that. There's no reason to fear allowing calcium, alkalinity and pH to drift downwards. Softies, LPS and LPS will all benefit no matter what direction you choose to go.

To be honest, more than numbers what I've been chasing is maximum coralline growth. In my experience, it uses alkalinity a lot faster than calcium. My tank is literally using up about 40 ppm of cal and 3-4 dKH of alkalinity a day. I've been having a hard time keeping up with it by adding a gallon of saturated kalk every night. It's barely enough.

So if I let these levels fall, my coralline stops growing altogether. Maybe I'm just trying to do something that's not really possible by having a tank full of softies while absolutely minimizing nutrients and maximizing cal and alk.
 
there's a huge difference between maximizing and maintaining optimal levels of calcium/alkalinity.

Magnesium fuels coralline growth and if you allow Ca/alk to drift downwards while maintaining Mg @ 1350ppm (or slightly higher) it's likely you'll see no decline in corallines.
 
there's a huge difference between maximizing and maintaining optimal levels of calcium/alkalinity.

Magnesium fuels coralline growth and if you allow Ca/alk to drift downwards while maintaining Mg @ 1350ppm (or slightly higher) it's likely you'll see no decline in corallines.

First of all let me say thank you for the expert advice. I am deferring to you on these chemistry issues because I think you know what you're talking about. So don't take this as argumentative.

But if I let my cal and alk fall like that for a couple days, I can tell that my coralline stops growing, trust me. I've been leaving the tank alone for the most part for weeks and the only thing I've really been worried about was the coralline. I've been keeping track of almost every speck and spot of the stuff. For instance, I haven't added kalk in a few days since this problem has gotten worse. I can tell for certain that the coralline has hit a wall.

I'm starting to think I might need a calcium reactor or another solution.
 
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I believe you.

It's unlikely that you'll be able to kill the Kenya tree and shrooms no matter what you do. Perhaps the best way to go about growing corallines and allowing those corals (along with Xenia) to thrive is to keep alkalinity up there while feeding the aquarium more heavily.
(Personally, I'd allow alk to drop below 11dKH, though!)
 
I'm starting to think I might need a calcium reactor or another solution.
this would allow you to run at a lower pH and I think it's a good idea in your case.

I used to maintain Ca/alk in a 200 gallon mixed reef aquarium with kalk alone.
I now run a calcium reactor and use kalk.

Be aware that a low nutrient system with high alkalinity can be detrimental to certain corals (mostly SPS such as Acropora).
 
I believe you.

It's unlikely that you'll be able to kill the Kenya tree and shrooms no matter what you do. Perhaps the best way to go about growing corallines and allowing those corals (along with Xenia) to thrive is to keep alkalinity up there while feeding the aquarium more heavily.
(Personally, I'd allow alk to drop below 11dKH, though!)

OK, I'm definitely gonna feed heavier. I have a cinnamon clown, a lawnmower blenny, a Niger trigger and a mandarin. Not a huge bio-load. But they will start getting more food.

And what about maybe leaving the skimmer off sometimes? I've been skimming the hell out of it.

As for the alk and cal, what would you say the optimal levels are? Where exactly do you try and keep yours? I know you said below 11 dKH, but where? I know you don't mean 6 dKH.
 
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