Spawn 5 another attempt.

It was great meeting you Roger. Thanks for letting us all invade for an hour. Your tanks are very impressive. I've got the little fellas in my tank and they're having a blast. Check out our club forum, I'll post some pics.
 
Thanks for your thread Roger. Please don't stop posting as new people find this thread through it being bumped up. I'm Subscribing and Hopefully posting a thread of my own soon. My Snow Onyx Clowns have laid eggs 4 times but they keep eating them after just a few hours. I had some bigger fish in there that have now been removed to cut down on the stress. We shall see.

TANK-NEM.jpg
 
Hi So for you are the fry swiming around? Like I said mine were just staring at the sides then died off

when you say your rotifers are thick how can you tell?

The mom just laid more eggs tonight and I need to do something differnent to get them to survive.

Not to hijack, but-

If you're fry are not swimming, could be related to their parents' diet, or could be you're not tinting your water dark enough; the fry are being "light shocked".

To check rotifer density, I use one of those glass test tubes that come in the API test kits, scoop out some water, maybe about a 1 mL, to check how many there are.

Also, air flow is a MUST, not enough oxygen in the water, the fry will suffocate.
 
Thanks for your thread Roger. Please don't stop posting as new people find this thread through it being bumped up. I'm Subscribing and Hopefully posting a thread of my own soon. My Snow Onyx Clowns have laid eggs 4 times but they keep eating them after just a few hours. I had some bigger fish in there that have now been removed to cut down on the stress. We shall see.


Sorry to hear that they are eating the spawn, not really sure why. They could be young and inexperienced but I’m not sure, it’s really not normal. Removing the other fish may help. I wished I had a better answer for you David but I don’t. Just make sure they are well feed and I'm sure you do.

Another thing is they may sense that they are not healthy eggs.
 
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I think that they are really too young to be spawning. They are only about a year or so old. I feed all my fish a big variety of some of the best foods around. Everything frozen is usually Selcon enriched with hypodermic needles if it can be. The live foods vary from live baby feeder fish, live shrimp, live amphipods, live baby and adult brine shrimp, caviar, clams, oysters, mysids, zoo plankton, some flake, phytos, ... I mean I feed everything and multiple times a day. I live 5 minutes from the Gulf of Mexico, so that helps. I notice they always seem to spawn after I feed clams for some reason. The first spawn was only 18 eggs, but has almost doubled with the next spawns. I also have to get the 3rd onyx clown out of there as he might be the real one causing them to eat the brewed. Thanks again for all the hard work.
 
Not to hijack, but-

If you're fry are not swimming, could be related to their parents' diet, or could be you're not tinting your water dark enough; the fry are being "light shocked".

To check rotifer density, I use one of those glass test tubes that come in the API test kits, scoop out some water, maybe about a 1 mL, to check how many there are.

Also, air flow is a MUST, not enough oxygen in the water, the fry will suffocate.

This is a good post and you are not hijacking the thread. Air flow is the best answer I see here. Rotifers should be about not more than a 1/4 to 3/8" apart, I use a shot glass. The water in the rotifers bucket/tank is what the fry tank should look like as far as the Phyto (green water). Again, I use a shot glass.
 
I think that they are really too young to be spawning. They are only about a year or so old. I feed all my fish a big variety of some of the best foods around. Everything frozen is usually Selcon enriched with hypodermic needles if it can be. The live foods vary from live baby feeder fish, live shrimp, live amphipods, live baby and adult brine shrimp, caviar, clams, oysters, mysids, zoo plankton, some flake, phytos, ... I mean I feed everything and multiple times a day. I live 5 minutes from the Gulf of Mexico, so that helps. I notice they always seem to spawn after I feed clams for some reason. The first spawn was only 18 eggs, but has almost doubled with the next spawns. I also have to get the 3rd onyx clown out of there as he might be the real one causing them to eat the brewed. Thanks again for all the hard work.

IMO this was the problem breeding pairs must be alone. Two clowns per thank for breeding.
 
Just got finished reading the entire post. I really want my clownfish to breed now! So, do you have better success with laying eggs if the clowns have an anemone in their tank?
 
Hey Roger! Long time no talk.

Somebody mentioned tinting the water green vs. light shock. Over the past year I have experimented with just about every scenario possible. My fry survival SKYROCKETED when I stopped dosing phyto to the fry tank and added rotifers as needed. All the light the fry tank gets in the first 7-10 days is ambient light from other tanks.

I no longer tint the water in hopes of the rots breeding in the fry tank and I have went from about 30% survival rate to over 90%. When the rots thin out, I add more, but never have to more than twice per day (usually only in the morning).

DSC_0213.jpg
 
Just got finished reading the entire post. I really want my clownfish to breed now! So, do you have better success with laying eggs if the clowns have an anemone in their tank?


Funny you should mention this, because in my pair I have his and her nems not that I planed it that way, it just happen and the original nem split move to the back of the same rock. You would have to see it after lights out how his nems tentacles will lays across the entire egg group on the slate they spawn. He will move from the oral plate of the nem and go and fan the eggs on the slate. She doesn't seem to care that much about the eggs (but I'm not home all day) until a couple days before hatch.



Do I think a nem is a must no.
 
Hey Roger! Long time no talk.

Somebody mentioned tinting the water green vs. light shock. Over the past year I have experimented with just about every scenario possible. My fry survival SKYROCKETED when I stopped dosing phyto to the fry tank and added rotifers as needed. All the light the fry tank gets in the first 7-10 days is ambient light from other tanks.

I no longer tint the water in hopes of the rots breeding in the fry tank and I have went from about 30% survival rate to over 90%. When the rots thin out, I add more, but never have to more than twice per day (usually only in the morning).

DSC_0213.jpg

That's wonderful Shaun and I'm glad you figure out what your spawn's needs. Every clutch can be different. I'm not saying that what I'm doing is a recipe for everyone. It's just worked for me.
 
I just read this entire thread, and I wanted to THANK YOU for taking time to keep us informed on your progress. I have had clowns spawn for years and never even tried to raise the fry.... until now.....Thank you again for your journalism....

Now, I have a couple of questions if I may......

What temperature are you keeping the fry tank?

I think I understand the concept of the rots... however, you mention keep a dense consecration of rots in the fry tank.... Are you adding Phyto to the fry tank and the rots bucket?

Oh, have you ever used a sponge filter in the fry tank?

Thank you!
 
I just read this entire thread, and I wanted to THANK YOU for taking time to keep us informed on your progress. I have had clowns spawn for years and never even tried to raise the fry.... until now.....Thank you again for your journalism....

Now, I have a couple of questions if I may......

What temperature are you keeping the fry tank?

I think I understand the concept of the rots... however, you mention keep a dense consecration of rots in the fry tank.... Are you adding Phyto to the fry tank and the rots bucket?

Oh, have you ever used a sponge filter in the fry tank?

Thank you!

When I set up the hatchery I make sure that temp is the same as the tank the eggs or fry come from depending on weather you move the eggs hatch night or collect the fry after hatch. Then after day 3 I raise the temp to 82, 1 degree per day this will send them into meta quicker. I use Finnex temp controllers on all my tank but IMO it’s a must in the hatchery because thermostats on heater are to unreliable in keep the temp within 1 degree.

The Finnex controller I use is the HC-0810 they are $39 and a great value for the price. If I have the control set say, at 81 when the temp drops to 80 the heater kicks on until it goes back to 81. They are digital read out so at a glance you know what the temp is. Set the tank heater thermostat just slightly higher than the desired temp you want the tank to be.

Yes, I add Phyto to the fry tank but don't over do it.

As for sponge filters no I don’t use them but what I do use when they are pretty much past meta about day 10-11 is a Marina Slim S10 HOB filter. You will see it here, it has a sponge on the power head to keep the fry from get sucked up in the filter.



Hope this helps.
 
YES, you have been very helpful... thank you again....
If I may ask just one more questions :lol:

How many days ahead of the fry hatching did you start making your rots?

I have a starter kit of rots from Reed coming in on Wednesday and this clutch will hatch on Thursday or Friday....
 
YES, you have been very helpful... thank you again....
If I may ask just one more questions :lol:

How many days ahead of the fry hatching did you start making your rots?

I have a starter kit of rots from Reed coming in on Wednesday and this clutch will hatch on Thursday or Friday....

I like to start mine 3 days before the hatch just to be safe. You are going to need a 50 micron sieve do you have one? You never put the rotifer water in with the fry tank, just the sieve out rots. I will PM you my phone number give me a call. Rotifer care is critical to success and to much to type on there care.
 
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Got your PM! THANKS AGAIN!

You are more than welcome and don't be discouraged if the first try don't pan out for you. Just learn about the rots they are critical to a hatch and keep them going, it's a little work but not that hard. You will have more fry in 2 weeks.:thumbsup:
 
This is current and what they look like now. Already sold many to local reefers but now I need get them to the LFS so others can enjoy them as I have. There are in a 40B.

 
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