SPS Bleaching When Using Phosphate Reducers

ATLJonathan

New member
I've been running 630 gallons for almost two years and I've noticed a trend: Whenever I use a phosphate reducer such as GFO or Phosguard, I experiencing some bleaching on my SPS corals after several weeks. I've noticed that some folks run phosphate removers only a few days a week, and pull the media out of the sump on the other days.

During this last instance, my phosphates were a bit high at .80 so I used Phosguard to reduce them to .04 over the last three weeks. I was not worried about wiping out phosphates altogether because I have a high bio-load. I did have to change the media twice over the course of the treatment.

Sure enough, now that my phosphates are down within an acceptable range (or almost acceptable at .04), one of my SPS (Stylophora) started to experience some bleaching. I've never had luck keep SPS long term. There was a 6 month period where I had several SPS colonies grow and flourish, but then they all ended up bleaching and dying. My Stylophora has been hanging on a limb.

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: .50
Phosphate .04
Salinity: .0255
Calcium: 420
Magnesium: 1400
Alkalinity 9.2 dKH
PH: 8.1
Iodine: 0.03

Any suggestions or theories are welcome 
 
Treat your Phosphate as you do your Alk…. Set your level and stick to it.

Large or rapid fluctuations can harm SPS corals.

Mo
 
Are you talking about bleaching as turning very white and pale or just losing color getting the pastel washed out colors?

I feel gfo is safe for phosphate removal if used slowly. It is best to use about the same amount constantly. As for aluminum based removers...well I personally would never use them in my tank.
 
Are you talking about bleaching as turning very white and pale or just losing color getting the pastel washed out colors?

I feel gfo is safe for phosphate removal if used slowly. It is best to use about the same amount constantly. As for aluminum based removers...well I personally would never use them in my tank.

Why would you not use Aluminium based ones?.
Apparently they don't leach much Al after all!.

Mo
 
I've had same issues. You need some phosphates and when you have 0 nitrate a big phosphate reduction will wipe out sps. Btw I have had no issues running. 1 po4.- I now run 2 gfo reactors but only change 1 at time every 2 to 3 weeks rotating cause 1 big change of both is do much change. Find an amount that you keep you levels steady. Dony worry about. 08.!!!!!
 
Why would you not use Aluminium based ones?.
Apparently they don't leach much Al after all!.

Mo

It has been my experience that aluminum based removers are detrimental to sps. I used some for a few weeks and had bleaching and rtn. I have seen other tanks doing good when they decided to use aluminum based remover. Within 2 weeks every one has had an rtn event.

This could be caused by efficiency of the remover striping po4 aggressively or by something the media leaches. I am not sure and I don't care to find out. I won't use it in a tank with sps just like I wouldn't use gfo in a clam tank.
 
I'm sure both types can have adverse effects if phos is stripped out of the system.

I also have a feeling that if your rocks store a lot of phosphate, this leaches out and keeps your measured phos level stable, making you think it's not working and turning up flow through the media. However, I think it is being stripped out with rapid phosphate fluxes, that can harm corals too.that's why I say- treat your phosphate like your alk. Keep it stable.

Mo
 
I had the same issue and stopped using GFO all together. I was then going to try carbon dosing but found that I could keep nitrate and phosphate low by just dosing Microbacter7.

My sps have gone from white to back to their original color in the last two months.
 
Im convinced one say will look back at this gfo and or carbon dosing and say what was i doing. I dont have the answers but i know this is not right sometimes maybe the levels we strive for in no3 and phosphate will change in future. Im convinced my tank is happy at .1 po4 and no3 in single digits to 15 ppm. I see more threads with 0 and 0 that have issues.
 
Im convinced one say will look back at this gfo and or carbon dosing and say what was i doing. I dont have the answers but i know this is not right sometimes maybe the levels we strive for in no3 and phosphate will change in future. Im convinced my tank is happy at .1 po4 and no3 in single digits to 15 ppm. I see more threads with 0 and 0 that have issues.

It doesn't help either when all the new reefers goto the TOTM's and they say nitrate/po4 is either zero or undetectable. That causes a lot of confusion and mistakes for new people to the hobby.
 
I like the comment treat your phosphate like alk :) I run rowaphos forever with no probs my tank measures around. Zero for both nitrates and phosphate but I feed heavy and have a lot of fish for me I've noticed with lower phosphates my wild pieces seem to keep that glo to them more
 
My guess is the GFO made the water so clean that the corals got shocked by the sudden light intensity that was able to penetrate the water column. This has happened to my SPS before, so I always go slow on adding GFO. No problems ever since.
 
I had the same problem. I added gfo and started havimg stn from the base up. I took it off line and now everyone except one healed up and is encrusted. My tank is thriving with good pe now and way better growth. Every tank is different I guess but I have seen alot of complaints with gfo and sps rtn/stn
 
Getting GFO established in a system needs to be done very slowly.
Read all of the posts that have problems and then look for a common feature.
Its not the actual level, but a rapid shift that causes problems, imo.

You can run 'zero' if you feed heavily, but feed lightly, low fish stocking, run carbon etc etc and it all adds up to coral starvation. Top it off with massive PAR and your corals won't be able to handle the light. One or other thing will tip the balance….

Mo
 
Lots of great advice guys, really appreciate your responses. Here is a pic of the colony that has experienced some bleaching:

photo-13.JPG
 
in my opinion that is a really quick drop in phosphates. the coral in the pic in my experience can take higher levels of nutrients in the water compared to acros and maybe even loves it. if the polyps are still there just give it some time and maybe lower the light a week or two. if the polyps are dead i would frag out the dead sections to prevent more die-off
 
Back
Top