SPS Growth Pics

The addition of the LR in the middle is a nice improvement. THe balance of colors works very well too.

ED
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7224047#post7224047 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Grayout
nikonosis, You will get diatoms with the addition of any new sand. When I added the sand, I also added a recharge kit from www.ipsf.com It takes about six months for a sand bed to become truely functional.

well the reason im wondering is because we are using aragonite sand in our 24g right now and in our old 75g we had silica sand in it. In the 75g we always had diatom problems, even 6+ months after the tank had been running. In our 24g we had diatoms for like a week and haven't had them since.
 
Yea, every tank is different. That's why you get so many different opinions in this hobbie. You could have had diatoms for a multitude of reasons. I wouldn't even attempt to guess.

All I can speak for is my current reef. I don't get diatoms on the substrate and only occasionally clean the acrylic with a magfloat. I really like the particle size of my current substrate and REALLY liked the price.
 
Wow! great tank and awesome growth. Is that Superman coral you have? Red with purple polyp Montipora. How is its growth?

Patrick
 
Thanks. Yep, encrusting montipora I picked up from Bioreef about a week ago. Growth is extremely slow but it definitely is one of my favorite corals. The glow it produces under actinics is fantastic
 
When it slowly dissolves, it helps to stabilize trace element levels/alk/calcium etc. Therefore, you have to replenish it over the years. Particle size is really the important issue. Dr. Ron used to preach about this in his old forum all the time.

Then there is the whole dsb vs bb thing that I won't get into. It's been beaten to death in other forums.

I don't use it because I'm running a calcium reactor and nilsen reactor to keep my calcium levels/alk at acceptable levels.

All I know is that it's effective for me, breaks down phosphates and leads to beneficial microbial populations.
 
Never mind here we go.

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here is a shot of Grayouts' sump. Cool!
 
does anyone know where to get some really white silica sand? grayouts sand looks a little yellow but maybe its just the picture.
 
Yea, I think it's the picture. The sps look differently too. I'm still trying to figure out the white setting on my camera. When you purchase the play sand from HD, it's very white.

My sump has actually changed quite a bit since that photo. I'll get a new shot up tomorrow. I actually made that sump from acrylic pieces and weldon. It holds about thirty gallons and has a fuge on the right side.
 
Don't remember the name but it's next to the cement bags. It's a clear plastic bag with a kid playing in a sandbox on the front. It looks a lot like aragonite but doesn't fizz when tested with vinegar. Make sure you rinse it thoroughly, since it does have a lot of dust.
 
I put it in a clean rubbermaid container and rinsed it with a hose. Basically, you keep rinsing under high pressure until the water in the container is clear.
 
Here are some updated photos of my acrylic sump. The left compartment holds the skimmer, which is slightly elevated. A drain from the center overflow drains into a separate compartment within this section. I have ozone feeding into the beckett skimmer at 50 percent. The ozone generator is connected to an air dryer and air pump. The ozone is regulated by the controller to turn off at 400 orp. A bubble trap, with three baffles separates this compartment from the return compartment. A Mag pump returns the filtered water to two sea swirls situated at opposite corners of the tank. The sea swirls can be adjusted by ball valves just before the outlet. I also have a ebo jager heater in the return section.
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I have a Neptune controller monitoring the system, as well as a Tunze osmolator, connected to a freshwater container (under a table directly next to the tank and shielded by a table cloth) to control evaporation. Directly on top of the sump is a nilsen reactor, which is connected to my tunze osmolator return. The evap water is fed through the reactor to increase it's ph and calcium level. The calcium reactor is also on top of the sump and is connected to its CO2 supply, which is located next to the freshwater container. The calcium reactor is fed directly from the overflow drains, to eliminate the need for an extra pump.
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The left side of the sump contains a fuge with LR and mangroves. I have a mini pc suspended over this section, which is illuminated at night, on a reverse photo period. The second of the two return lines is fed directly into this compartment as well. A spill over grate keeps large pieces of macro, snails etc from getting into the return section.
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This is a valve that I hook up a hose to when I do my weekly water changes. I simply plug in the hose, turn the ball valve and drain water into a bucket.
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