SPS problems....Need advice please!!!

Enjoy

That's what she said....
My tank has been running for 7+ months, and all parameters seem to be in check. But I am having major SPS issues...

SG: 1.026
PH: 8.4
Temp: 78.5-80.5
Po4: .04
N03: Undetectable
Cal: 440
Alk: 8.3
Mag: 1350

Equipment:
Apex Controller
Bubble Magus Doser
RE AlphaCone 200 Skimmer
Ehiem 1262 Return
2- 250w Radiums w/ Lumatek adjuatable ballasts
2- 48" ReefBrite Led
2- MP40w
Tunze Osmolator
2- BRS reactors (GFO/GAC)

I have kept 2 succesful SPS tanks, and now I can't seem to keep a frag colored up for more than 2 weeks. They slowly just fade away until complete tissue necrosis. It starts at the tips, and slowly works its way down. It almost looks as if they are nutrient deprived, and the skin just starts to fade to nothing. Most of the time there is great polyp extension, even when the tips are doing awful - the base still has great PE. My LPS, and my anemone are doing fine.

I was running bio-pellets for the first 6 months of this tank, and I thought they were the cause so I took them offline. Its been over a month and very little has changed (as far as SPS health).

I am bummed out, and tired of watching money go down the drain buying frags. Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be?

Here are a few pics for referance. (Sorry about the quality)

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Here are a few of the tank:

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(Angels have been removed)
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What kind of lights do you have?From the looks of the Tips on those frags your either having Alk spikes or a busted sheild letting UV in.

What sups are you using in the doser,& when?
 
Equipment:
Apex Controller
Bubble Magus Doser
RE AlphaCone 200 Skimmer
Ehiem 1262 Return
2- 250w Radiums w/ Lumatek adjuatable ballasts
2- 48" ReefBrite Led

2- MP40w
Tunze Osmolator
2- BRS reactors (GFO/GAC)


Radiums run for 6hrs (Replaced bulbs 2 months ago)
ReefBrites run for 8hrs

Currently I am not dosing anything. I keep parameters in check with weekly 15% water changes. Once frags grow to colonies, I will start using the dosing setup.
 
Ok how long do you run the MH lights for?
My guess is that you stripped the water clean of nutrients. My sps colored up when I let the water get a bit dirty, no3 around 5-10ppm. If can take a few months for sps to recover so give it time. I would not add any more sps until you see the ones you have improving. Feed more.
 
Ok how long do you run the MH lights for?
My guess is that you stripped the water clean of nutrients. My sps colored up when I let the water get a bit dirty, no3 around 5-10ppm. If can take a few months for sps to recover so give it time. I would not add any more sps until you see the ones you have improving. Feed more.

I agree. You should turn your BRS reactor completely off for the time being until you get your nutrient level back up. Since you are skimming well, that skimmer will do fine for all of the filtration.
 
I agree, turn off the reactor for a while and your skimmer is plenty to keep the water clean. Running to much carbon or more effective carbon like some of BRS's will stripe the water very fast.
 
Thanks to everyone for the help so far. Much appreciated.

I am running my Radiums for 6hrs daily.
I am no longer running biopellets. They have been offline for almost 2 months.

I feed pretty heavily already. 3x dryfood daily, and 1x frozen food. Rods, pe mysis, ova prawns eggs, etc...

Anybody else have any ideas?
 
Currently in the tank:

Bluejaw trigger
2 fathead sunburst anthias
2 lyretail anthias
Picasso clown
McCoskers flasher wrasse
Red flasher wrasse
Purple Dottyback
Green spot mandarin
 
Hi,
I think that your aquarium is actually too hot. Try to bring it down to 75 and keep it as constant as you can. Best of luck.
Regards
Michael
 
Would a high PH of 8.4 - 8.5 cause this?

No, Mine gets up these some summer days with no issues.

Truthfully im stumped. Its possible that you stripped the water, but i have no sand, have a skimmer rated at 5X's my tank, and use GFO and i havent had a issue like this.

What are you testing your salinity / Alk with?

If your using a refractometer is it calibrated?

I wouldnt worry about the water temp. Mine swings from 76-82 in the summer.

Are you acclimating the corals to your light, i assume so since they are on the floor of the tank.

Otherwise im boggled bro. If your tank was up for 7 weeks not months i would say its a new tank, but its not. And they arent browning out so its nothing to do with high nutrients.
 
Have you checked your water with different brand and newer test kits? What are you using to check po4?

It looks to me like low alk. It could also be RB or FW, maye try an interceptor treatment while your at it.
 
Have you checked your water with different brand and newer test kits? What are you using to check po4?

It looks to me like low alk. It could also be RB or FW, maye try an interceptor treatment while your at it.

You rly think 8.3 is low alk? I keep mine at 8.6 with happy sps. :/ Maybe hes having large alk swings.

AWEF / Red bugs could be possible, but i wouldnt treat interceptor until your 100%. No need on adding things to the tank that you dont need.

imo
 
Hi,
I think that your aquarium is actually too hot. Try to bring it down to 75 and keep it as constant as you can. Best of luck.
Regards
Michael

75 is too cold. There is no need to keep your water that cold. I would aim more for 78. I keep my tank at 80 so my chiller can get a break and my electrical bill doesn't go through the roof.
 
You rly think 8.3 is low alk? I keep mine at 8.6 with happy sps. :/ Maybe hes having large alk swings.

AWEF / Red bugs could be possible, but i wouldnt treat interceptor until your 100%. No need on adding things to the tank that you dont need.

imo



It's not that I think it's necessarily low, but I do think it might be wrong. I also think if he's not doing any carbon dosing there isn't any reason it couldn't be maintained at 9-10dkh. IIRC that's closer to NSW levels.

I don't see any harm that would come from a single interceptor treatment...

It's more important that temperature stays relatively constant. You'll find successful tanks that are kept at 75 and some as high as 82-83. All that matters is that it's not changing quickly and frequently in large amounts.
 
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I highly doubt it is all swings or a pest. There is very little coral growth, which means low alk uptake. My water changes shouldn't swing parameters much.

Also, I QT'd 100% of the coral that went into the tank. I have dealt with planaria flatworms, red bugs, and the dreaded acro eating flatworms. I have been extremely careful adding coral this tank, and have also kept a close eye on all frags.
I am 99.9% sure it is not a pest. It has got to be a water chemisty issue.
 
How old or how new rather is the GAC in the reactor? GAC in reactors do a very good job of making your water crystal clear causing the coral to burn from the increased UV from your lights. Is it possible that this started after changing the GAC?
Why didn't this happen while in quarantine? Is it different lighting? DO you run GAC in that tank?
I'm stumped and UV penetration due to very clear water is my last possibility. It's actually happening to me except mine aren't burning just bleaching a bit.
 
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