Did not get quite the responses I was hoping for on the DIY forum, so trying here:
I am trying to design and build my own stand/hood, but I’m a bit confused and hope RC-FMAS members can help me out:
It appears that there are two general categories of stand build: 2x4 frame with a ply skin, or a ¾†ply box where all four of the vertical sides are cut from single sheets. I run across examples of both in stores and on these forums. I have found detailed instructions for the 2x4 method, but not for the ¾ box.
My project involves a 72x18x26 (center overflow, designed as a room divider) custom tank, no frame, euro-braced, that will be mounted in-wall, viewable from two rooms. Since the tank does not have a plastic frame, the stand will need to have a flat top with styro/foam board. The Tank will be flush mounted to the bedroom wall, but will project about 15 inches out into the living room, so that side of the tank stand must be finished as if it were a nice piece of furniture. On the flush wall side, I want the tank to be as flush as possible, nothing more than a continuation of the wall into the glass if possible. On the living room side, I am trying to make a very sleek, euro style box, flush mounted doors and absolutely minimum ornamentation and trim. So, my questions:
1) How do I go about getting the tank flush with the wall, rather than inset? The only way I can see doing it is by using the ¾†box method rather than the 2x4 method, which will allow me to have a stand that is not deeper than the aquarium, and then I can finish and paint that side of the stand as if it were dry-wall/sheetrock. I suppose I could use the 2x4method, but inlay the skin inside the 2x4 hole instead of putting it on the outside, and then use a lot of sheetrock compound to fill in the joints where the 2x4 touches the 3/4†ply and the drywall, and then paint it like the wall. Or should I just punt and accept at least a 1/2" inset byu butting the tanks stand up against the inside of the flush wall dry wall? Any recommendations?
2) I am confused about the edges of the hole I cut in the wall. I understand that I will need a header to support the top section of sheet rock, but I don’t quite know what I am supposed to do with the inside edges of the hole, particularly given the moisture issue. Best I can figure is that I am supposed to close in the entire hole edge with either wood or green board, seal and paint the whole thing. Correct? More to it?
3) How do I finish the living room side edges where the dry wall meets the stand? If I am using the 2x4 method with, say, ½ birch ply skin, I suppose I could cut the side skin panels such that they do not enter the wall hole, but rather butt up against the dry wall. But what about if I use the ¾ box build? And what about the part where the side of the actual tank meets the dry wall? How do I finish this? Do I use the metal corner protectors and paste over? Seems like there would still be a gap, do I caulk and paint it?
4) Do you have a recommendation on 2x4 with skin versus ¾ box? I confess I like the smoothness and simplicity of design of the ¾†box, but I like the ease of construction (at least at the early stages) of the 2x4 frame.
Thanks...
I am trying to design and build my own stand/hood, but I’m a bit confused and hope RC-FMAS members can help me out:
It appears that there are two general categories of stand build: 2x4 frame with a ply skin, or a ¾†ply box where all four of the vertical sides are cut from single sheets. I run across examples of both in stores and on these forums. I have found detailed instructions for the 2x4 method, but not for the ¾ box.
My project involves a 72x18x26 (center overflow, designed as a room divider) custom tank, no frame, euro-braced, that will be mounted in-wall, viewable from two rooms. Since the tank does not have a plastic frame, the stand will need to have a flat top with styro/foam board. The Tank will be flush mounted to the bedroom wall, but will project about 15 inches out into the living room, so that side of the tank stand must be finished as if it were a nice piece of furniture. On the flush wall side, I want the tank to be as flush as possible, nothing more than a continuation of the wall into the glass if possible. On the living room side, I am trying to make a very sleek, euro style box, flush mounted doors and absolutely minimum ornamentation and trim. So, my questions:
1) How do I go about getting the tank flush with the wall, rather than inset? The only way I can see doing it is by using the ¾†box method rather than the 2x4 method, which will allow me to have a stand that is not deeper than the aquarium, and then I can finish and paint that side of the stand as if it were dry-wall/sheetrock. I suppose I could use the 2x4method, but inlay the skin inside the 2x4 hole instead of putting it on the outside, and then use a lot of sheetrock compound to fill in the joints where the 2x4 touches the 3/4†ply and the drywall, and then paint it like the wall. Or should I just punt and accept at least a 1/2" inset byu butting the tanks stand up against the inside of the flush wall dry wall? Any recommendations?
2) I am confused about the edges of the hole I cut in the wall. I understand that I will need a header to support the top section of sheet rock, but I don’t quite know what I am supposed to do with the inside edges of the hole, particularly given the moisture issue. Best I can figure is that I am supposed to close in the entire hole edge with either wood or green board, seal and paint the whole thing. Correct? More to it?
3) How do I finish the living room side edges where the dry wall meets the stand? If I am using the 2x4 method with, say, ½ birch ply skin, I suppose I could cut the side skin panels such that they do not enter the wall hole, but rather butt up against the dry wall. But what about if I use the ¾ box build? And what about the part where the side of the actual tank meets the dry wall? How do I finish this? Do I use the metal corner protectors and paste over? Seems like there would still be a gap, do I caulk and paint it?
4) Do you have a recommendation on 2x4 with skin versus ¾ box? I confess I like the smoothness and simplicity of design of the ¾†box, but I like the ease of construction (at least at the early stages) of the 2x4 frame.
Thanks...
