I will post the response here to allow others to see.
Stand Design
Assuming you are starting with my stand template, your stand has a top frame, a bottom frame, and legs all out of 2X spruce/pine/fir lumber. In all cases, the bottom frame and legs can be made from 2X4s while the top frame must be sized to the load it will carry. With an 8' long tank, that poses a problem.
The issue with an 8' tank is the structural boards supporting the 8' side need to very large. In the case of the 360g tank you describe, you need a 2X12 to span the 8' unsupported. Even larger tanks would need doubled up 2X12s to properly support the tank. However, if you put in a leg along the length of the stand, you can significantly reduce the size of the top frame, gaining space in the stand for other things.
In your case, adding a leg in the center of each of the long sides results in a top frame built out of 2X6s instead of 2X12s, gaining a full 6 inches of height. This would give you (2) openings that are a little over 42" wide. Also, given that the stand is 36" wide, you could potentially install a 24" wide sump in the stand from the end if need be.
Wave Maker
I personally don't like wave makers. Sure you get a lot of water motion but controllable power heads do a much better job of causing chaotic/random flow.
Another concern I have is that with a peninsula tank, the overflow is probably on the short end of the tank. At the same time, the wave maker is likely to set up a standing wave running the length of the tank. This will cause the water level at the overflow to vary with each wave. This in turn will change the amount of water going down the drain lines into the sump which will cause the noise to change. For me, its much easier to tune out background noise when the volume is constant but ones that change get my attention. While other wave forms are possible, the one most likely to be formed is also the one that will cause you the most grief.
Hope that helps.
RocketEngineer
