Starting over after 20 years!

[mitchb]

I recently got back into the hobby with a 60 gallon tank and was anxious to try all the new stuff, so I did. The Apex control is worth it. Bought a Kessil A360 and run it in combination with a 150 watt hqi metal halide I still had from 7 years ago. The combination of both with the control of the Apex is fantastic. Recently bought the new Waveline DC pump(apex ready) and use it as both my return pump and as an additional wave maker with three different variations programmed over 24 hour period. Ramping up lighting and then down, a moonlight that follows the lunar cycle, and of course, total control of pumps such as Tunze. Even though the less technical way works fine, for me the latest technology adds interest. Go for it and have fun.

 

[Shredded]

Stingeragent - I got carried away. I tried to just buy the base unit but I wasn't happy with a couple of things and I thought the return pump was too small for the size of the tank so I added the second one. When I added that, it required reprogramming of the CNC machine. Then, the top off tank did not come with the lighting like the sump so I added that. Then the engineer said that the second pump was going to be a tight fit but would work but recommended going to the 60cm box (wider)... so we went with the wider box. Then, I realized, the matching water top off unit was now not as wide, so I upgraded to the matching 60 cm top off box. Lastly, I wanted to modify one of the inputs to a different size and that required reprogramming of the CNC machine.... so, when it came down to it, about 4350 Euros, plus the conversion to dollars (about 15%) so... 5000.00 plus shipping (about 500.00) Wow, do not like seeing that number in print.

 

[Shredded]

dentnshell - You opened the door on something I wanted to discuss. I know this has probably been beat to death but let's talk overflows. I don't want to change from the corner overflows and I found out after the fact that Marineland only drills for a 1" bulkhead. Here is what I have done so far. AGAIN threw money at the problem. I searched and searched and finally found a bulkhead fitting in England that has male threads on both sides (1-1/4" imperial) so it mates perfectly to a 1-1/4" straight thread(not tapered) PVC female adapter. The bore thru the fitting is a full 1-1/4 inches with no obstructions. So, I have turned the 1" drain into a 1-1/4 inch drain. If you go by a standard maximum flow chart the difference in gallons per hour is significant. (almost double)
After doing some reading here, I was a stalker here for a while before I posted, I guess what I am doing would be what you all refer to as a modified Bean Animal. Facing the tank in the right overflow, I have one full siphon and one open channel. The open channel tube is attached to a tiny bulkhead fitting drilled into the frame edge around the tank so if the water gets dangerously high it will seal and turn into a full siphon. In the left overflow, I have another full siphon and an emergency channel. So, just one additional full siphon as opposed to just one. I have done all of this in 1-1/2 clear PVC. I will be able to see the amount of overflow in the open channel to fine tune the flow. The two full siphons will exit the tank and will convert after the ball valve from 1-1/4" to 1-1/2 and combine right before entering the sump into a 2" fitting. The open channel and emergency channel will both convert after the bulkhead to 1-1/2 and have their own dedicated input to the sump. Again, all in clear PVC so that I can easily monitor the flow. I estimate being able to pull 3000 gallons per hour into the sump and the two pumps combined figuring a 2 meter head will push about 3000 gallons per hour and both are fully adjustable thru their dedicated controllers. OK, critique this....

 

[jackson6745]

OK, SoloGarth... We didn't have LEDs for lighting then.... I always had Metal Halide and Actinic combinations. Can they really compete? I have looked at the Kessil lights. What do you think of those? Torn on which direction to go.

If you do your homework you will see that the best reefs out there still used MH, T5, and LED/T5 hybrid. LED's are great on paper, but they have issues and the spread on popular fixture is no where near as advertised. I was a little overwhelmed when I got back in the hobby as well. You'll make sense of it all soon enough, and appreciate the equipment choices that we have now compared to 20 years ago. Good luck!

 

[Shredded]

Cdodge1 - I would love to start an official build thread on the tank. I figured I would wait though until the house begins construction so that we actually have movement going forward. That way I can get everyone's input on the circuits, plumbing and drains. Right now, just trying to accumulate the supplies and equipment so when we do this, we have it all. The expense is nuts so I am spreading it out before I build. The cost of clear PVC fittings and pipe is outrageous but looks so cool. Want to do this right. I didn't want to drag a build thread out for a year and bore everyone.

 

[Aframomum]

Concerning your ideas for dual Bean overflows, you may want to post your idea over in the large reef aquarium forums as they may have some suggestions for you.

Also while a nice idea the use of clear pvc, I think it may get covered in algae after a while unless you have a way to clean it regularly.

Mark

 

[Shredded]

Aframomum - I will do that, thank you.
Yes, I thought about that also. I am making the flow pipes complete removable so that they can be cleaned with maybe quarterly big maintenance. The top caps unscrew and a large bottle brush used to clean them. This is used in the food industry and the interior surface of the pipe is super smooth for enhanced flow rates.

 

[Shawn O]

I have done all of this in 1-1/2 clear PVC. I will be able to see the amount of overflow in the open channel to fine tune the flow. The two full siphons will exit the tank and will convert after the ball valve from 1-1/4" to 1-1/2 and combine right before entering the sump into a 2" fitting. The open channel and emergency channel will both convert after the bulkhead to 1-1/2 and have their own dedicated input to the sump. Again, all in clear PVC so that I can easily monitor the flow.

One thing you'll want to consider is algae building up in the clear pvc plumbing between the tank and sump. If you're going to be running a light in the sump or have strong light hitting the sump area, it might be beneficial to keep the clear pvc covered with foam pipe insulation or plastic wire loom to block the light.


Either way, this sounds like it's going to be a fun build to follow, which I will be doing. Definitely set up a build thread on RC so we can follow along. Give us updates with pics if you can. We love pics. :thumbsup:

Edit: check out these threads here on RC:

DIY Stands Template
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

 

[Shawn O]

Edit: Correct links to the OPs of these threads:

DIY Stands Template and Calculator
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

 

[Cdodge1]

Cdodge1 - I would love to start an official build thread on the tank. I figured I would wait though until the house begins construction so that we actually have movement going forward. That way I can get everyone's input on the circuits, plumbing and drains. Right now, just trying to accumulate the supplies and equipment so when we do this, we have it all. The expense is nuts so I am spreading it out before I build. The cost of clear PVC fittings and pipe is outrageous but looks so cool. Want to do this right. I didn't want to drag a build thread out for a year and bore everyone.

What?! You mean I cannot have instant gratification?! GAHHH! :angryfire:

Haha alright alright, I'll hold my horses

Of course the cost of starting any tank is going to be pricey to say the least...but one of this size and quality...I shudder at the thought.

Clear PVC? We're talking rigid shced 40 PVC? Hmmmmm I like the idea but if I may offer my thoughts on that:

Unless you've already installed the plumbing? Then just disregard I suppose.. The inside of the PVC pipes will overtime develop a thin layer of slime and discolor the "clear" look of the pvc pipe. However I realize that you want to monitor flow in the pipes; which I admit, I'd love to look at the actual water making it's way through the pipes. Unless you had an extremely long pipe cleaner maybe? Veto that, using regular or colored PVC in combination with Clear PVC, create a small section of clear pvc with unions? That way it can be easily maintained? I think at the very least it may add some frustrating maintenance to the tank...and considering the size already, it's going to be quite a bit!

As for your herbie overflows, everything sounds good. Two Full siphons with gate-valves and two emergency stand pipes should provide more than enough protection against flooding and provide an adequate turnover. Also, some articles or posts talk of people using ball-valves on their herbie style drains. Only use gate-valves. They are pricier, but you can finely tune the water flow, whereas the ball-valve is more for on/off applications. Sorry if you mentioned it already but It's worth mentioning.

Hope this helps!

 

[Shredded]

So finally, after months of negotiation and meetings and arguments, we have broken ground on the house. The end is in sight. A lot of equipment has been purchased but still lack some major pieces. Ready to resume this thread!

 

[bdunn12]

Don't know how you can hold off and wait. I know I wouldn't be able to hold off on the tank until the house is ready. Good luck on your house build and your tank set-up!

 

[Shredded]

@bdun12, Thank you! Well, Its allowed me to accumulate equipment. The house build is scheduled to take 6 months, 9 on the outside, delays, weather, etc. Things will start to move fast now. They are starting foundation work Monday. Having a post tensioned slab for strength.
At this point, I have
Tank: Marineland 300 DD
Sump: Custom one off Royal Exclusiv
Return pumps: 2 - RD3 Speedy 80 Watt
Manifold pump (operate accessories): RD3 Speedy 60 Watt
Protein Skimmer: Bubble King DeLuxe 200
Vertex RX-Z 3.0 ZEOlite Reactor
Vertex RX C 6D Calcium Reactor
2 - 5 lb CO2 Tanks with Dual Stage regulator
Controller: Vertex Cerebra
Lighting: 3 - 250 Watt MH, 4 - 80 watt super actinic
Refrigeration: Penguin 1/2 Horse Chiller

The stand is being constructed out of 2x4 , 3/8" box steel and is now ready and headed for powder Coating next week.

 

[SaltLife19]

Sweet Shredded, going to very nice build! I'm on the fence with going with Apex or Vertex Cerebra controller. Interested if anyone else has installed one yet, and if they are satisfied.

 

[Shredded]

I really hesitated about listing that. People seem to be bashing it so much. Truthfully before I bought the Cerebra, I was looking at the Puratek. Firstly when I had to leave the hobby before, there were no full aquarium controllers. Secondly, there were no internet boards to hear everyone's opinion. Everyone seems to be attacking the large interface, for me however, that was one of the reasons that I bought it. This tank is going in wall, so, I am having an aluminum bracket/bezel with engine turning made to mount it flush in the wall next to the tank. I think it will make a very cool look to the overall display. I also have six to nine months for others to work out issues while the house is being built.

 

[FernandesReef]

Bump...[emoji6]


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