Starting up a 720 Gallon and seeking suggestions in Miami!

Try leaving the bottom doors open. If that's sufficient I would still clean vent holes in the doors so you don't need to use fans.


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Leaving the bottom doors open leaves temptation open for the cats to go where they shouldn't be lol not to mention the light leaking out from the mars. It's in my living room so the light would be distracting. Maybe I won't need to runt hem for too long a day?


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FPL is going to love you!
Sound a $200+ bill just on running the tank


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I've barely mentioned the 220 I'm setting up as well in the media room lol. I'm looking into installing a auto generator. Wonder if there will be a way to power it with gas?


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Leaving the bottom doors open leaves temptation open for the cats to go where they shouldn't be lol not to mention the light leaking out from the mars. It's in my living room so the light would be distracting. Maybe I won't need to runt hem for too long a day?


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No I didn't mean always, I meant for a week to see if you need them. If you don't need them when the doors are open then you can make nice cutouts for ventilation on both sides and this way you avoid using those fans. Because it's going to be loud not to mention your rate of evaporation will double or triple.

Just a thought.

That's what I did with my cabinet. Granted I don't have a refugium so I have no lights underneath. I'm sure you'll need fans, but the question will be how many and you also have to realize where you're going to push that hot air out to, if the hot air down there has nowhere to escape you're not going to accomplish much. Ideal would be if you had a return in the top of the cabinet, whereby on the side you could have a channel that fed into your return, then no hot air anywhere in the house.


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No I didn't mean always, I meant for a week to see if you need them. If you don't need them when the doors are open then you can make nice cutouts for ventilation on both sides and this way you avoid using those fans. Because it's going to be loud not to mention your rate of evaporation will double or triple.

Just a thought.

That's what I did with my cabinet. Granted I don't have a refugium so I have no lights underneath. I'm sure you'll need fans, but the question will be how many and you also have to realize where you're going to push that hot air out to, if the hot air down there has nowhere to escape you're not going to accomplish much. Ideal would be if you had a return in the top of the cabinet, whereby on the side you could have a channel that fed into your return, then no hot air anywhere in the house.


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Understood. Thanks for clarifying :-) there will be holes which will lead to the electrical and Neptune circuit board where the air can escape through. It is not yet completed to show you as of yet. Electrician is rewriting everything now with pvc and elevating the electrical outlets and adding covers. No more metal!!ill also be adding pvc board to the sump flooring to. It leave the wood exposed.


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Hey guys so I think electrical
Is completed. Let me know your thoughts.
ae8528a78658eb85804b59b030cc2c88.jpg
changed to plastic housing with a cover. This is only for emergency. It's on a separate panel.
b1d8799d7be700205b8f0b5a4b3872b9.jpg
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One on each side. Outside the sump area. They will be adding doors to this side which is where the Neptune Apex and all power supplies will be neatly organized.
b2d97479eee6f5160fcac69506e0e18e.jpg
no more metal and wires are now run from the top of the sump area.

0485188915b4c3f697c7df40c254aaee.jpg
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the outlets are now up top with covers and plastic housings! Let me know if there is anything I can improve on the design.



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That is so much better and safer. Congratulations.


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Pedro is coming next week to start piping the monster! Sounds wrong lol. Water in and running by mid to end of October. Next week starts construction on the water stations. Gonna build a shed of sorts. Insulated with roof and concrete floors. Planning on running 1/4 inch PVC inside of 1/2 inch pvc wrapped in the foam they use for the outside AC pipes. I'm hoping this will help with the temp getting too hot on its way to the aquariums. I'm going to start a seperate thread on my 220 as well. They are both at the same stage of readiness equipment wise. Not as high tech but almost.


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Is difficult to get an exact perspective of the top opening, but how much clearance you have from the top of the tank to where your lights will hang?
 
Is difficult to get an exact perspective of the top opening, but how much clearance you have from the top of the tank to where your lights will hang?



There will be about a foot of free space between where the lights will end up and water. I'm installing a rail to be able to slide it one way or towards the other depending on the side of the aquarium I'll be working on.


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Hey guys one thing I may not have planned for that I can use a hand in is humidity control. What do you believe would be my best option? Will this be an issue? I cannot imagine it. It being one.


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Hey guys one thing I may not have planned for that I can use a hand in is humidity control. What do you believe would be my best option? Will this be an issue? I cannot imagine it. It being one.


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How funny, I had the same "Oh No" moment when I read the post on AV99's thread. I'm with you in thinking that is shouldn't be an issue. Given where we live, the A/C runs almost all day, all year. That should handle the bulk of it.


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Lol that's exactly what turned my bulb on. I was like whoa. Will the AC vent in the canopy help with that as well?


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The vent isn't as impactful as the return. Pulling the humidity out through the coils.


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The vent isn't as impactful as the return. Pulling the humidity out through the coils.


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I'm not sure they added a return. I was worried that it would leak heat back into the aquarium when the AC was off. I'm hoping the added fans would blow the heat out wihile the AC cools the canopy. I need to add some kind of vents that would not leak light to my living room or dining room.


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Too much to quote as I haven't been keeping up fast enough.

Electrical looks WAY better. No fried Locito :)

A/C@72F will eat up a lot of humidity if you are venting the stand. Why not tie your fans to a temp probe/APEX? There are also humidity probes as well for fans. I believe Weast runs his fans every 20 mins at set intervals (granted his is garage kept).

As far as preventing light leak, you can create a short baffle in between the vent and the light (think about shading your eyes from the sun). Its quite popular in the THC world... http://www.thctalk.com/gallery/data/3471/medium/Light_Baffle.jpg
 
Too much to quote as I haven't been keeping up fast enough.



Electrical looks WAY better. No fried Locito :)



A/C@72F will eat up a lot of humidity if you are venting the stand. Why not tie your fans to a temp probe/APEX? There are also humidity probes as well for fans. I believe Weast runs his fans every 20 mins at set intervals (granted his is garage kept).



As far as preventing light leak, you can create a short baffle in between the vent and the light (think about shading your eyes from the sun). Its quite popular in the THC world... http://www.thctalk.com/gallery/data/3471/medium/Light_Baffle.jpg



The Apex controlling the fan is the way it's planned to work :-) is there a link to the baffle for the light? Hard for me to figure out how it would work. Definitely need to vent the canopy and perhaps even the sump. Any idea where I can purchase the humidity probe? No fried locito is a good thing lol


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This is the best I could find with a quick search.

http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Roof_Vent_Baffle020DFs.jpg

Just leave enough space for the fan and it will draw the air through the slit with little/no light leak. Will also protect the fan from any splashes, bumps etc. Don't make me get the MSPaint out. You don't want that...nobody doe

Did MSpaint anyway. Not sure what you have planned for internal air flow but the obvious downside to the baffle is higher temp/humidity air being trapped at the top (where the internal air circulation comes in handy). Feel free to make the baffle opening either on the lower side or the upper side (upper side will eliminate the need for more internal circ). Really dependent on how your lights will be set up and how they reflect.
http://i.imgur.com/aJPT9cI.png
 
Last edited:
This is the best I could find with a quick search.

http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Roof_Vent_Baffle020DFs.jpg

Just leave enough space for the fan and it will draw the air through the slit with little/no light leak. Will also protect the fan from any splashes, bumps etc. Don't make me get the MSPaint out. You don't want that...nobody doe

Did MSpaint anyway. Not sure what you have planned for internal air flow but the obvious downside to the baffle is higher temp/humidity air being trapped at the top (where the internal air circulation comes in handy). Feel free to make the baffle opening either on the lower side or the upper side (upper side will eliminate the need for more internal circ). Really dependent on how your lights will be set up and how they reflect.
http://i.imgur.com/aJPT9cI.png



MSPaint master!! Sent the pics to my contractor to see how we can incorporate it into my canopy. Sump would be more complicated. All the lights would be below the top of the canopy so if the light looks straight down it should be a non issue. Hoping 2 fans in the canopy blowing cold air across the top of the aquarium with the AIDS of the AC vent should do the trick once I add the vent!


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Where do you plan on keeping the APEX? I plan on installing a tablet with Fusion right next to the tank. Just wired a cat6 cable directly to the tank for the APEX.

didn't see it in your pictures so thought I'd ask
 
Where do you plan on keeping the APEX? I plan on installing a tablet with Fusion right next to the tank. Just wired a cat6 cable directly to the tank for the APEX.

didn't see it in your pictures so thought I'd ask



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One side will house all Apex modules and the Apex itself. The other side I'm planning to house the power supplies. We Will then add doors on each side matching the existing woodwork so it is not seen. Carpenter is also adding vents to the canopy and the sump area for air circulation! :-)



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