Step-by-step account of my first reef (with lots of pics)

[Dudester]

divecj5 - Glad you liked the update and thanks for all of the nice comments. Video? Not yet, I still need to improve my still photography. But I'm sure I'll get there eventually.

melev and Kreeger1 - My bubble is officially busted! Thanks for pointing the red bugs out to me. Even though I've seen these photos a dozen times, I never saw the bugs until just now. It just goes to show you, you only see what you want to see.

Regarding the nutrient comment from melev, I'm fairly certain that they are extremely low in my tank. Well, I can't comment about all nutrients, but thedude tested my phosphates with an ultrasensitive test kit and the level was nearly undetectable. I agree that some, albeit a very small amount of phosphates are beneficial to coral coloration, and that's why as a result I've increased my feedings substantially. As it is I certainly don't need any phosphate removers, although I do run Seachem's Purigen 24/7 in my sump.

I now feed 2 thumbnail sized chunks of my food mixture every day (comprised of raw seafood, algaes, vitamins and other supplements, essentially Borneman's formula), as well as DT's oyster eggs 1/4 tsp every 2-3 days. I'd like to feed smaller amounts and more frequently, but my work schedule will not allow for that.

I change the carbon monthly, and I change the entire bag. I place about a cup in a filter bag and run it in a relatively high flow area of my sump, between the fuge and the return chamber.


So now I guess I better read about Interceptor and how to kill red bugs. Anyone have a good link as to what's the best way to treat the tank? I'll likely have to treat the whole tank, as I'm really not interested in setting up a hospital tank unless it's absolutely necessary. I have a 20g long I could use if it's required. I'll have to weigh the risks/benefits of both techniques after I read more about it. Hey fishypets, how did you treat them in your tank?


Oh well, I've battled flatworms, I've battled bryopsis, I've battled the death of multiple new fish, I can certainly overcome this, too. So that I don't end on a bad note, I'll post some pics of some cool zoanthids that I noticed a few months ago. They were hitchhikers on the LR that I got, and I've never seen any like them before. Thedude named them "mojo madness," as mojo is my username on my local club forum. I like that name, and I'm looking forward to these zoas proliferating so I can eventually frag them out.

 

[Dudester]

Divetime - Thanks so much. I do a 5 gallon (~13%) water change every 2 weeks with IO salt. I add 45ml of both parts of B-Ionic every morning. Twice a week I add 1 drop of Kent Lugol's solution (iodine). I test chemistries every 1-2 weeks and add TurboCalcium as needed to increase calcium, Seachem ReefCarbonate or baking soda to increase alkalinity, and ESV Magnesium to supplement magnesium as needed. I siphon detritus from my sump with every water change, but I've never siphoned the tank's substrate. Hope that addresses all of your questions.

 

[melev]

I've not treated my tank for red bugs, but I did treat a coral. If you like, I'll PM you the link to that page on my site. And you may as well try the iodine dip for one SPS to make sure you don't have AEFW in there sucking the life out of your acropora.

I'd change the carbon more frequently. THe better the water quality, the more light shines through, and the corals get more light and have brighter zooxanthellae in their tissue, ime.

Your pictures were taken with the pumps off, it seems. What is your clarity when the pumps are running?

 

[Dudester]

Good advice, melev. I'll test for the AEFW like you suggested. I guess I should test one of the faded and unhappy corals right? That means I'll have to pull it off of the aquascape and reattach it afterwards, but I'm sure it's worth just to know for certain.

I should be able to find the link on your site regarding red bug therapy, no need to send the link as I'm sure you have enough to do.

How often do you recommend changing the carbon, every 3 weeks perhaps?

The water is crystal clear, even with the pumps on. It always has been.

 

[melev]

FYI, if you go to Reef Log, check the left hand column for Pests to get to the appropriate page.

According to an article I tend to believe, carbon is good for three days. This is also buried on my site:
http://www.pets-warehouse.com/carbon.htm

 

[Bax]

Dude!

Incredible update! Your tank looks great!

So you have red bugs?! All the big time reefers have had red bugs! You'll be OK. But get after'em ASAP. I am working my vet for a supply of Interceptor now for the inevitable day I get them.

I try to change my carbon weekly with water changes, and no more than every two weeks. I use 1/2 cup in two separate media bags (1 cup per week on a 120).

 

[fishypets]

I'm impressed Mike! Those little frags you got from me a while back have grown so much I didn't recognize any of them.

Red bugs can be a pain but it treated correctly can be long forgotten. My advice would be in the future make sure you dip ALL your new frags no matter whom they came from.

I found this link if you are interested.

http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=45859

 

[Dudester]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8270005#post8270005 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
According to an article I tend to believe, carbon is good for three days.

Thanks, melev, I've read that article in the past and I also feel that it was well-written and contains valid data. That's why I've been using the Two Little Fishies Hydrocarbon. Despite my concurrence with his conclusions, I still run carbon continuously instead of the 12 hrs/week that he recommends. I do this for the following reason. In the study, he measured the ability of carbon to remove yellow color from the water, as well as the removal of trace elements, which was determined by iodide removal. His results with improving water clarity are great, and perhaps 3 days is all that's required, but in my case I don't have a yellow water problem, my water's always crystal clear, so I'm not using carbon for that purpose. Regarding the removal of trace elements, he did not perform an adequate quantitative study of the reduction of iodide concentration in my opinion; the test kit used to measure iodide relied on the perception of a color change on the test card, which is a qualitative result and, as everyone knows, is not all that sensitive. Additionally, iodide was the only trace element that was studied. I run carbon continuously so that, if my sarcophyton chooses to release a bolus of toxins into my tank, the carbon will be there and will be capable of handling the adsorption required to eliminate the toxins. So sure, carbon is "good" for 3 days in that it reaches its maximum effect in aiding water clarity and removing trace elements, but if it's not in the tank on day 12 when my leather coral decides to fart, then it's not going to help the other corals in the tank. I haven't studied it, but I'm pretty sure that having some carbon in a media bag, even if it's been in there for 2 weeks, would be able to smother that fart quite efficiently.

I forgot that the article recommended only 3 tbs of carbon / 50 gallons of water. I'll probably still use more than that.

I read the red bug treatment on your site, but when I got home last night, I looked carefully in the tank and saw lots of red bugs on most of my acros, all of which are firmly attached to the aquascape. An in-tank treatment with Interceptor is my only viable option, so I'm going to use the technique that fishypets recommended. I'm mad at myself for not seeing the bugs before, since I know that this is a cause of poor SPS coloration.

Bax - Thanks for the pick-me-up! I guess now I've hit the big-time. Yeah, I use way too much carbon at a time. I'll cut it back, and change it more often. I like the idea of changing it weekly. I guess with my small tank (~40-45g system volume) I could use 1/3 cup at a time and I'd do just fine.

fishypets - I'm glad you made the comment that the frags had grown. Since I hadn't taken any photos of the frags when I got them, and since I see them daily, I don't have your perspective of their growth over time. I guess I'm doing something right, even if I can't recognize red bugs when they're staring me in the face.

Now that I've had nearly a day to recover from my initial shock, I actually feel pretty positive about this red bug infestation. Half the problem and frustration of having pale corals is not knowing why they are that way. All things considered, this is a relatively simple, straight-forward and inexpensive problem to treat, and once the therapy is completed, I should see improvements quite rapidly. I've spoken to a veterinarian already and on my way home from work today, I'm going to pick up a "six-pack" of Interceptor. I hope to begin treatment this weekend, so I'll need to make up some more water to prepare for some massive water changes. Apparently the treatment will kill all of my pods, shrimp, hermit crabs and emerald crabs, but nothing else should be effected. I considered removing as many of these as possible and placing them in a temporary tank until the 3 week treatment period is over, but I'm afraid that if any of them are carrying even 1 red bug, I'd eventually end up with another infestation. So I'm afraid they'll have to be sacrificed, unless others out there can tell me that it'll be safe to reintroduce them to my tank? I'll actually do some reading about this subject, since I don't want to intentionally kill my shrimp and crabs.

 

[Bax]

I used about 1/3 cup per week on my 75g (100g system) when it was running. So 1/3 cup should be fine for you, saves you a couple of bucks too. Which neverseems to be the case in this hobby.

 

[techreef]

-still chuckling about the mental image of Dudester frantically standing next to his tank, arms in the water, trying to "smother a coral fart."- hehe. hello, my name is beavis.

Seriously though Dudester, wow. you have been BUSY. you have an excellent coral collection. i hope everything colors back up nicely once you deal w/ the red bugs. i would give my right arm to be dealing with an infestation of red bugs right now instead of the cirolanids i just found in my tank. how did i find them? only by dropping the cutest fish i've seen, a 4" midas blenny, into the tank last week only to see 2 cirolanids latched onto him hours later. haven't seen the blenny in the last two days, other than what may just have been wishful thinking last night when I was watching TV next to the tank after dosing some brine shrimp to get my other new fish, a carpenter's flasher wrasse, eating. i feel like an axe murderer after seemingly sacrificing the blenny to those bloodsuckers. man i wish i had spotted them before adding fish.

 

[melev]

I've never heard of red bugs hitching in on shrimp or crabs, nor have I ever seen any one them. I would try to rescue what you can reach, and sacrifice what is uncatchable I suppose.

 

[Dudester]

techreef - Ouch! Sorry, man. I don't know a thing about cirolanids, but I'm sure you can find a ton of stuff on the site to help you treat them. I hope your flasher wrasse makes it; please keep us posted.

Yes, I have been busy. I was actually preparing for 2 changes for my tank. I was considering changing to Tropic Marin salt, since this has higher Ca and alk than IO and maybe I could get by with dosing less B-Ionic using this different salt. The other change was the addition of a product made by Elos, an Italian company that sells a series of essentially bacterial cultures that are supposed to induce the proliferation of zoanthellae in corals. These changes were directed toward improving the colors of my corals, but I'm going to place both of them on hold until I eradicate the red bugs.

melev - Thanks again for your input. I'll set up my 20L tank and over the next few days, I'll transfer as many of my crabs into it as possible before starting the Interceptor treatment. I may only fill it with 10-15 gallons, as that should be more than enough. I guess I'll just run a heater and a filter with a sponge that has been in my sump for a couple of months, which should be teeming with bacteria. I'll probably also put a few pieces of LR from my sump in there so they'll have some algae to pick on, and I guess I'll feed my fish food mix very sparingly, or not at all? Any chance red bugs would be in the live rock?

I picked up the Interceptor today. My vet gave me the six-pack at his cost ($29) - smokin' deal, eh?

 

[melev]

Yes, that is a great deal. I think I paid more like $40 to $50 for my pack.

I'd feed the tank like usual. It seems like you don't feed that much as it is. Your shrimp can be feed pellet food during the transition. I'm no expert when it comes to red bugs. I do know they appear on smooth skinned acropora mainly, but obviously they walk to get from coral to coral.

 

[Dudester]

Melev, the tank I was referring to feeding sparingly was the tank that will house the rescued crabs . Of course I'll feed my reef just the same as usual, and since you mentioned it, I'll probably increase the amount.

 

[bubblethumper]

I'm having the exact same issue: growth + extension, but no color. I don't see any red bugs on my acros, and I'm having color problems with some of my non-acros (monti's).

Keep us posted as to what you do to fix the coloration problem

 

[jnarowe]

I'll go out on a limb here and say that maybe you need more light to color up your corals. If I am correct you have a 250W lamp a little high over the cube right? Maybe lowering the lamp or upgrading to 400W would do the trick.

 

[melev]

Bubblethumper - montipora like magnesium. Have you tested for that yet, and if so what is the reading?

 

[Dudester]

bubblethumper - Some things to consider regarding coral coloration include lighting (as jnarowe mentioned just above), flow, nutrients, nutrition and predators, just to name a few. As your corals have grown, have you done anything to provide more flow, since increased coral mass will decrease the efficiency and flow of your returns/powerheads? Regarding your montis, keep a look out for montipora-eating nudibranchs. They are visible to the naked eye and can account for poor coloration and even RTN in montis. Anyway, I'll keep you posted if you'll do the same .

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8279010#post8279010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
I'll go out on a limb here and say that maybe you need more light to color up your corals. If I am correct you have a 250W lamp a little high over the cube right? Maybe lowering the lamp or upgrading to 400W would do the trick.

Thanks for contributing and mentioning something that I never would have considered, and for the following reasons. The bottom of my MH pendant hangs exactly 8 and 1/2" above the water line; this doesn't seem all that high to me. Quite frankly, I don't think my tank would withstand lowering the light any further, since the fan can't reduce the temperature below 82 degrees as it is. I had actually thought that perhaps I should try to raise my light, as I felt I was bleaching the acros on the upper deck of the 'scape.

I am providing >8 watts/gallon to the display, which I thought would be sufficient. I was under the impression that tridacna clams are some of the light-hungriest creatures in a marine aquarium, and at the substrate level mine have what I consider to be beautiful colors. Your recommendation for a 400W bulb is very interesting. Would that put out the same amount of heat as my 250?

Thanks again!

 

[jnarowe]

At 8W/gal. that should be sufficient. I only have 3W/g but it is concentrated and on movers. If you have temp. issues, there's no way you can go to a 400W. It will put out quite a bit more heat than the 250W.

However, I can't imagine that it is too much light and causing discoloration. That may be a question to ask Sanjay about.

How long has the color issue been a problem? When was the last time you changed the lamp? Is the protective glass still in place between the lamp and the tank? If so, is it clean?

I realize you probably have looked at all this, but it never hurts to throw out some suggestions. For instance, if the protective glass is missing, you could be zapping the corals with too much UV.

 

[Dudester]

I've had color issues with my SPS since they were first introduced into my tank, so probably for ~10 months. For the most part they fade after entering my tank, but remain alive and grow pretty well. This is why I thought I was bleaching them with too much light. Perhaps instead there's something I'm not providing them, such as adequate nutrition or bacteria for the zoanthellae. That's why I've increased my feedings (phosphates are nearly indetectable with a very sensitive test) and I'm about to add the Elos supplement I alluded to. This will have to wait until I address the red bug problem. I'm also going to increase flow by replacing my MaxiJet 1200 with a Tunze nano stream once it's available, and I'm going to get some OceansMotions 1" Omniflex nozzles to replace my 3/4" locline returns from the closed loop.

To answer the rest of your questions, the Phoenix 14K bulb was placed over the tank on 1/23/06, and I plan to replace it after 1 year of use. The UV-protective glass is clean and intact. Thanks for your suggestions, and please keep'em coming.