Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads

JustOneMoreTank

New member
Well I figured that I would show people how I drilled a couple holes in my glass tanks. First I would like to say that I am not an expert nor any more qualified than any other "do it yourselfer", however I have done this several times and never had any problems getting a near perfect hole in a glass tank.
#1 Use common sense and keep safety at the top of the list. Always wear eye protection and work slowly trying to think ahead. Be very careful with plugged in power tools around saltwater.
#2 Do not try and drill Tempered Glass! It will shatter for sure. Tempered Glass usually has a warning sticker indicating it as such and is usually the bottom pane of glass in a glass tank.
#3 Try to have the tank empty if possible.
#4 The correct tools make the job so much easier. I have drilled tanks with Dremel tools and tiny diamond bits. What a pain and it took forever. The hole I had was less than impressive... however it was functional and ended up fine. I would recommend a diamond coated hole saw. Google search and you can find them. They are pretty pricey however. A seller on Ebay called Richon_Tools sells them pretty cheap. However they ship from Hong Kong and sometimes it seems like he takes his time. He has a very good rating.
#5 Keep the bit and glass cool. I use a little dam around the hole I am cutting that is the top of a plastic cup. I have it duct taped to the glass and this keeps the water about half an inch deep. Others suggest using Antifreeze automobile coolant however I never have used it. Water works just fine for me. Also is easy and not deadly so I dont worry about cleaning it up perfectly.
#6 Move slowly and never force the drill bit into the glass. Pressing the bit into the glass may result in "chatter" or the bit to bite and end up cracking the glass.
#7 I use a very high speed setting with the drill (not sure of the RPMs) with a feather-light touch on the glass tank.
#8 Start the hole in the tank with the diamond bit angled somewhat from 90 degrees to the tank. If you try to start drilling with the entire face of the bit on the glass it will want to slide around and result in an ugly scratchy mess before it starts making the hole.
#9 Once the hole is started you will have a "curved slice" that is maybe 1/4 of the circle that you are cutting. Once this is started some you can remove the bit and begin cutting again at 90 degrees to the tank wall and shouldn't have the skipping/sliding around problem.
#10 Don't forget to have a towel or something on the other side to catch the perfect round glass disc and water once you cut through!

I hope that I didn't forget anything. I will post a few pictures that I took the other day. Hope this helps somebody! :)
 
Ahhh... forgot this little list:
Diamond Hole Saw size 60mm = 1.5 inch Bulkhead
Diamond Hole Saw size 45mm = 1.0 inch Bulkhead
Diamond Hole Saw size 38mm = 0.75 inch Bulkhead

Those listed are for standard sized bulkheads. There are some fancy heavy duty bulkheads that require a larger-sized hole in the glass tank. I am not sure the size Diamond Hole Saw required for those.
Use this conversion to determine what size you need. 25.4mm=1inch
MarineDepot lists a size 1 3/4 " hole for a size 1" Bulkhead. High School math will get you 1.75 x 25.4 = 44.45 That is the size in mm diamond hole saw that you need.
I hope that was easy to follow??? :)
 
This is trying the difficult way with a Dremel and very small diamond bits (like your dentist uses)...
Stand003.jpg

Cut the top off of a plastic tumbler-type cup with the Dremel.

Stand004.jpg

Getting the supplies ready to go through the back of this 125g tank. (the back of the tank is painted navy blue)

Stand005.jpg

The plastic ring is duct taped to the tank resulting in a very good (not perfect) watertight seal. This will do a fine job holding the water keeping the tank and bit cool.

Stand006.jpg

Almost all the way through the glass. This is the slow way and results in a hole that is not perfectly circular. Did I mention that it is painfully slow and hurts your ears yet? I will not ever drill glass with my Dremel now that I have found the better Diamond Hole Saw bits for my cordless drill. :)
 
Now for some pictures of me drilling my 50g sump. I installed a 1.5 inch bulkhead requiring the use of a 60mm hole.

cutglass001.jpg

Some supplies

cutglass002.jpg

Duct tape the plastic ring on

cutglass003.jpg

Here you can see the large Diamond Hole Saw bit in the cheap cordless drill.

cutglass005.jpg

The hole is complete and it only took about 4 minutes I would guess.

cutglass006.jpg

Test fit the Bulkhead ... fits very well and seats easily

cutglass007.jpg

Rubber gasket goes on the inside (also know as the "wet side"). I use plenty of silicone as well. Some people don't but I dont ever worry about leaks doing it this way.
Be careful not to overtighten the bulkhead or any threaded PVC. You can crack/split the standard bulkheads this way. It just needs to be "good and tight" not "Super Human with a Wrench Tight"
Good. I hope this has been helpful. :)
 
very good thread.... I was going to start drilling this weekend, but now I gotta go get me a hole saw....Geez, I wish I had not seen how easy that was....lol
 
It can be done with the Dremel for sure. I have heard of others using a "tile cutting bit" I think it is #562. Also I have heard of people using diamond coated Dremel bits that are listed as #7122, #7123.
However it is just too easy and the results are great with a real diamond hole saw like the ones I got off of Ebay. :)
 
plumbers putty works much better for creating a dam around the hole. No tape, no leaks.

Also using metal duct tape on the backside of the hole will help prevent chipping when the hole is almost finished (better yet a wooden black camped against the glass).


Bean
 
Hey Bean... Thanks for the info. The plumbers putty would work better I agree. However I did not have any laying around and the duct tape works great if you take your time and press it down well all around. When cutting the hole in the pictures (50g sump) I actually was more concerned with the photo taking that I did have a little bit of a leak. No big deal. The last 4 holes that I have cut I did better with the duct tape and did not have any leaking cooling water at all. :)
 
I just ordered a 6 piece core drill set off Ebay.
32,35,38,42,45 and 50mm bits

I got 42mm and 45mm bits so I can do 3/4 and 1" bulkheads
I don't know what I'll do with the others.
Maybe drill holes in rocks when I have nothing better to do.

$20 for the set
 
About $3.50 each is a great deal and only $20.00 for the set. Check out the prices for a similar sized set here:
http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/MAIN.htm
Try $291.00 !!!! :eek2:
On the above posted link there is lots of useful information about using these diamond coated hole saws to cut glass aquariums as well as maintaining the bits and cutting other materials. This link should be a mandatory read for anyone cutting glass tanks. :)
 
Glad you did not use antifreeze.
Many people have misconceptions that antifreeze causes the water to be more heat conductive, or will magically cool itself. Pure water is the best coolant and heat transfer fluid- which is why every other materials specific heat is compared to that of water- which is 1.0.
Antifreeze is used for just that purpose- to lower the freezing temperature of the water (mix). It actually hampers its heat carrying capacity a bit, but that is the tradeoff for being able to not freeze up in cold weather.
 
Purple Haze... no problem.

H20Eng... I saw where someone had suggested antifreeze and I wasnt going to argue that point. I didnt think that AF would make water a better "heat sink". Ohh also AF is really bad if it ended up in your tank. :eek:
 
Since the post just got a bump I figured that I would add some recent pictures that I took the other day...

This is a photo of the back of my 120 RR tank with a recently cut hole for a 1" Bulkhead.
tankhole001.jpg


Here is a series of shots of cutting a second hole to allow placement of another 1" Bulkhead...

Duct tape is on the inside of the tank so that the glass hole piece does not drop into the tank...
tankhole002.jpg


that is the diamond coated drill bit...
tankhole003.jpg


and the last two photos were difficult to take but they show a side view through the glass that is being cut. You can see the hole being carved out of the glass through the side edge. It was difficult for the camera to focus correctly.
tankhole004.jpg

tankhole005.jpg
 
Here are a few pictures of the tank as it is right now... sitting on its front viewing pane of glass in the living room. I have siliconed in all 8 Bulkheads (four on the back wall and four in the bottom). Two 1.5" and two 1" bulkheads are part of the Closed Loop and are all on the back glass wall. The other four bulkheads are the standard 1" and 3/4" AGA overflow sized holes. :) :) :)

HoleFinished003.jpg

HoleFinished002.jpg

HoleFinished001.jpg
 
drilling

drilling

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Hereââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s my progress following most of your steps. I drilled one 45mm hole (already cut out in pic) and one 38mm hole (the one with the cardboard stencil). Your advise was helpfull. Thanks for starting this thread.
 
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