sterilizer

[Steve_B]

I have read that these parasites are present in the natural setting of a coral reef. Their #s are diluted by the trillions of gallons of water. The theory is that they will rapidly multiply in the confines of a closed system such as an aquarium. So, if this is the case and a Powerful Uv sterilize is used, can its
effectiveness dilute their #s in a similar fashion?

 

[wooden_reefer]

I have read that these parasites are present in the natural setting of a coral reef. Their #s are diluted by the trillions of gallons of water. The theory is that they will rapidly multiply in the confines of a closed system such as an aquarium. So, if this is the case and a Powerful Uv sterilize is used, can its
effectiveness dilute their #s in a similar fashion?

UV sized to kill waterborne bacteria (that go thru the UV) is too small against ich.

I have not tried it, but there should exist a UV
large enough to simulate the dilution effect of the ocean wrt ich; such unit will likely overheat a small QT without chilling in the summer.

A diatom filter will simulate the dilution effect of the ocean in regard to ich, to a significant extent, but recharging diatom filter weekly is a hassle. plus it is an energy hog.

Eradication of ich is likely more practical, works well for me for over 25 years.

 

[Steve_B]

I also made this topic in the reef section as well. As you know there is a lot more action over there, so thats why i did so. This is basically what my bottom line is;

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4393+7999&pcatid=7999

"I bought one of these, the 36Wunit for my 70 gallon tank. The water makes more than 1 pass as opposed to units that run the water straight through. I'm in the process of buying a flow meter so that I can set it to around 400gph. Yea, I do have the water being pumped back into the sump. If it was hooked up to my return pump, my rate would be way to fast and the exposure time wouldn't be as effective, but of course that's my opinion. I have no disease in the tank, but I think it would help if I brought parasites in from a new fish.. It seems to me that a unit this size in my 70 gallon tank could make a difference. The actual # of gallons may be someplace around 50 something, when he water displacement taken up by my fake coral and crushed coral substrate"

 

[wooden_reefer]

I also made this topic in the reef section as well. As you know there is a lot more action over there, so thats why i did so. This is basically what my bottom line is;

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4393+7999&pcatid=7999

"I bought one of these, the 36Wunit for my 70 gallon tank. The water makes more than 1 pass as opposed to units that run the water straight through. I'm in the process of buying a flow meter so that I can set it to around 400gph. Yea, I do have the water being pumped back into the sump. If it was hooked up to my return pump, my rate would be way to fast and the exposure time wouldn't be as effective, but of course that's my opinion. I have no disease in the tank, but I think it would help if I brought parasites in from a new fish.. It seems to me that a unit this size in my 70 gallon tank could make a difference. The actual # of gallons may be someplace around 50 something, when he water displacement taken up by my fake coral and crushed coral substrate"

You generally don't need a flow meter. You can just collect and time the water into a container of known volume. After a while you can eyeball flow to within +- 25%.

 

[Steve_B]

You generally don't need a flow meter. You can just collect and time the water into a container of known volume. After a while you can eyeball flow to within +- 25%.

Yea, and thanks for the advice, I really appreciate anybody going out of their way to open discussion. .The way I have my set up won't work with that method. This truly a fish only tank, nothing alive except the fish and of course the good bacteria on the wet/dry media. The water output runs through the sponge prefilter, into a pleated low micron canister filter with activated carbon. As the canister filter becomes clogged the water slows down, thus no constant flow. I really do need the flow meter because of the aforementioned.