strictly radion users

[Aqua Man 07]

im running 5 gen 2s on my 300dd its been running a little over 2 months. i am using only radions and it will be a sps dominate tank so i was looking for some pointers or graph pics on your radion programs. and some coral pics of radion grown sticks would be nice also.

 

[bshow24]

This document will give you some decent insight: http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf

I run a combo of the AB+ and PHX14 programs in here. Blues and UV at 100%, White at 35%, Red and Green 25%.

I recently obtained my frags (within last 3 months) so I can't speak for much growth, but I can say I received a bleached out Pink Lemonade frag that within 3 weeks was pure green with bright red polyps. I also have a Walt Disney that has colored up more than I expected within a week and another tenuis that is beginning to exhibit more multiple colors. All my corals are healthy and happy, polyp extension, no bleaching or STN, the whole nine.

The programs from the Coral Lab Papers are actually available on ecosmart live, so they would be easy to implement.

 

[Pife]

The more blue the better is what I've seen from Nicks tank.

 

[rovster]

Here is the one I used to run....


Here is my current one....


I've always had an intense white period 3-4 hours in the middle and try to keep the curve flat. Starts at blue then goes through all the presents (Deep blue, blue, 20K, 14K, 12K then back down. I tried the AB+ program but didn't work out and it was way to blue for my taste. I like the 14K preset the best.

I have added T5 to the mix but if I'm being honest best color I ever saw was when I was radion only, but it probably had more to do with my tank being in a sweet spot than the lights themselves. Coverage is an issue however. I've noticed that corals directly under the lights look significantly better than those outside on the perimeter. You can check out my build thread for pics. If going with a DD tank I personally would consider some T5 for coverage, although you can do it with just the Radions.

 

[Sapelo]

I'm also using the Coral Lab program off of EcoSmart but just switched over about three weeks ago so will need some more time before I'm really certain of how things are going.
I'm running 6 G3 Pros on my 300DD and honestly think I may add 3 more. I LOVE the look, control and temp of the lights, but I do see some shading.

 

[Aqua Man 07]

This document will give you some decent insight: http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf

I run a combo of the AB+ and PHX14 programs in here. Blues and UV at 100%, White at 35%, Red and Green 25%.

I recently obtained my frags (within last 3 months) so I can't speak for much growth, but I can say I received a bleached out Pink Lemonade frag that within 3 weeks was pure green with bright red polyps. I also have a Walt Disney that has colored up more than I expected within a week and another tenuis that is beginning to exhibit more multiple colors. All my corals are healthy and happy, polyp extension, no bleaching or STN, the whole nine.

The programs from the Coral Lab Papers are actually available on ecosmart live, so they would be easy to implement.

thanks for the link thats some good info. i dont use echosmart live so i gotta convert it all over to apex.

 

[Sapelo]

Yeah that's one of the real pains between Apex and Ecotech. I actually ended up adding an ecomart controller on top of my Apex just so I could run the graph. It's a pain, if I need to change the lights I have to log in and cannot count on Apex to manage them, but it's the only way to be able to easily program the darn things. I do wish the two companies could play nicely together...

 

[Aqua Man 07]

after checking out the graph for the the phx 14 i was actually pretty close with my modified apex preset so i did some tweaking and it looks to be pretty close i just have a bit longer ramp down on the lights.

 

[bshow24]

Should be good then! The biggest thing is going to be the intensity. Word of advice if you haven't added any SPS or other corals yet, set your intensity up pretty high.

If you're running the wide angle lenses, I suggest at least 85%, if it's normal TIR you can stay closer to 50%. I bring this up for a couple reasons:
1) It's a pain to ramp the light up slowly when you find out the corals weren't getting enough light. It's just as easy to start them in a low spot and slowly move them up, acclimating them to the light that way.
2) A friend mimicked my lighting schedule, minus the intensity, and ended up having almost every acro that he purchased STN. You can avoid this with a high starting intensity.

Not necessarily on topic, but a small, hopefully helpful, lesson!

 

[Aqua Man 07]

I'm running my lights at 80% with normal lense about 16" off the water I've had a ponapae birds nest for about 3 weeks it has kept great color and good pe. I added some frags a fellow club member gave me while some haven't had the best pe they still have good color and a part of one that was a fresh cut is healing nicely. I had to make my day time max intensity I only had like 5 hours max so I bumped it to 7. And changed the spectrum a little on a couple settings.