Sump build using a crazy 120

Mark...

Member
Hi I recently bought an acrylic 120 that has a built in wet/dry filter built in the back. I plan on using it as a basement sump for my 180g. I thought the filter part could be isolated dry, but I have been doing a water test on the sump the last two days and noted water gradually works its way into the 3 center compartments that are part of the wet/dry filter.

The water is below the bulkhead you see at the top. I felt around the inside and found no cracks or opening. It must be coming through the bottom seam. The tank outside is dry, as well as the two smaller compartment on each end were the overflows were used. So my concern it that this area will become a dead spot causing problems. I guess I could let my drains go in these compartments (with filter socks) and pipe the over flow to one end of the tank. Then have the typical sump setup. Any thoughts on this and a sump design on this 6 footer? Maybe just try to seal the bottom edge? This is a strange tank.

sump12.jpg

sump13.jpg

sump14.jpg
 
Can anyone give me their thoughts on this sump project? Basement sump.

It's a 72" acrylic tank 20" high and 13" wide. The wet/dry area is separate and will only be used as an emergency overflow area.

I guess my questions are related to baffles, chambers (sizes?) and height of the baffles. I was thinking of from left to right return with skimmer, fuge, frag area, return with internal pump. Open to all ideas and suggestions. I need to order acrylic baffles and I'd like to nail the design down with some help. Don't want to mess this up.

Thanks!
 
I was thinking from left to right, 12 inches for drain and skimmer-15" baffle, 24" refuge-14" baffle, 24" frag area followed by bubble trap 13" 15" 12"- to 12" return area for pump.
 
I would the return pump go to one side of the back chamber. Eventually it will flow to the main chamber of the sump. Probably split the front of the sump into two chambers, one for skimmer and for return. Will need 2 to 3 baffles to split these two.
 
My biggest two simple suggestions would be to 1. Make sure you get at least 1/4" acrylic. 2. Take either a straight top down pic, or better straight on (front) pic and use an editing program, something as simple as MS paint would do, to "draw" your baffles in place, to allow for a more visual reference of what you're talking about.
 
My biggest two simple suggestions would be to 1. Make sure you get at least 1/4" acrylic. 2. Take either a straight top down pic, or better straight on (front) pic and use an editing program, something as simple as MS paint would do, to "draw" your baffles in place, to allow for a more visual reference of what you're talking about.

I'm going with 3/8"...I tried Google sketch and it was full of Malware. I'll try the ms paint.

Thanks for the reply...
 
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