sump ideas

Joshsreef

New member
Currently I have a 75 gallon FOWLR tank with a Fluval FX5 and an emperor 400 with chaeto in it. I have been debating on ordering a premade sump but dont really want to shell out the cash. Is there anything wrong with just going out and purchasing a 29 gallon tank and just using it basically as a refugium. Are the baffles really necessary. Im using a Seaclone skimmer currently and although it isnt the best it does skim for me so I dont really need to upgrade it right now, and its really not that much of an eyesore so i dont mind leaving it hanging on the tank. The only thing that I really would like to move to the sump/ refugiums would be my 2 heaters. Does this make sense to you guys ? Just a 29 gallon tank with a return pump and heaters in it , I would move my chaeto to it , with a deep sand bed and some rubble rock. If it is a good idea, how do I go about determining what kind or return pump I need, and how do I know how high my water level can be to keep the sump from flooding. Thanks guys
 
many people use tanks as sumps. 20 gal long tanks work great. Baffles can help maintain a consistent water level in certain chambers where you might want that (i.e. protien skimmer) and keep sand bed refugiums from getting sucked into the return pump, but apart from that, baffles aren't "required."

The size of the return pump depends on what your overflow can handle. Most single pipe overflows are rated for about 600 gph.

The space needed to prevent a flood depends on the size of your tank and where the return nozzle is located. When the pump is turned off, the display will back-siphon until the return nozzle is exposed to air and breaks the siphon. If your return nozzle is to deep in the tank, you can back siphon a LOT.

My 90 gallon back-siphons about 5 gallons to the sump when the pump is turned off. The return nozzle sits about 2" below the surface.
 
check valves are far from fool proof, especially in marine tanks. Clogging and hammering are two common things that can occur with them. Both will result in a flood if you are not home and you lose power. If you want to guarantee you will never have a flood, leave space in the sump.
 
I use a check valve and have never had a problem. No piece of equipment is fullproof. Since you have enough room in your sump, putting a valve on really won't cause you a problem. It would be good for your tank when you have to shut the pumps down, and you won't back siphon 5 gal into your sump.
 
Check valves have a high rate of failure in saltwater applications simply because of the organics within the water than can cause it to clog/malfunction. There is a reason when you go to zoos and fish stores and you look at their plumbing you never see a check valve. A good sump design should operate at a water level low enough to accommodate any water that may back siphon.

A proven, simple, and inexpensive way to stop back siphon is that of drilling a small hole in the return line just above water level in the main tank. This prevents the vacuum-effect of a siphon from forming and is much more reliable than any check valve.

As for your original question: no, baffles are not necessary and you can contain any micro bubbles by simply having your drain line (from the skimmer and tank) drain through a filter sock or a series of plastic containers that function as baffles would. Also you can (just as many have) use an aquarium or even a rubbermaid plastic tub as a sump.

If you're looking for some pictures or diagrams look at louis tsai's sump on his nano. It's very similar to what you plan on setting up.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/totm/index.php

You can see his drain goes into a filter sock and then he has a simple refugium housing some sand, macro algae, a heater, and his return pump. You should do something similar to what he did to protect his pump from the sand by placing it in a small plastic container.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top