Sump Question
- Thread starter intenseimage
- Start date
melev
Well-known member
Here's the thing about this layout:
The water level in the beginning where the sock is doesn't matter, other than noise factor. The next section (dictated by the baffle before the foam/eggcrate) should be the water level the skimmer needs. If it is too low or too high, the skimmer won't work properly.
What skimmer is that? Can it go in the section where the sock is instead, getting it away from the Cheatomorpha?
Putting foam in the baffle is nice on occasion but for the most part I wouldn't put it there.
The last section is really too shallow. If you have an auto top off system tied in, it won't be a problem if the return pump is small. However if the pump is larger it will suck the water right out of that zone very quickly and fill the display with bubbles. I would have the water level the same as the Cheato zone, or maybe 1" lower.
What return pump are you going to use? What size tank is this going under? What dimension are this sump? What protein skimmer are you using, and where is its pump?
The water level in the beginning where the sock is doesn't matter, other than noise factor. The next section (dictated by the baffle before the foam/eggcrate) should be the water level the skimmer needs. If it is too low or too high, the skimmer won't work properly.
What skimmer is that? Can it go in the section where the sock is instead, getting it away from the Cheatomorpha?
Putting foam in the baffle is nice on occasion but for the most part I wouldn't put it there.
The last section is really too shallow. If you have an auto top off system tied in, it won't be a problem if the return pump is small. However if the pump is larger it will suck the water right out of that zone very quickly and fill the display with bubbles. I would have the water level the same as the Cheato zone, or maybe 1" lower.
What return pump are you going to use? What size tank is this going under? What dimension are this sump? What protein skimmer are you using, and where is its pump?
intenseimage
Active member
OK:
1. No the skimmer cannot fit in with the filter sock in the drain line side
2. Skimmer is a Bermuda Aquatics C3
3. The foam strip is coming out
4. The cheato is in an eggcrate box to contain it and keep it out of the skimmer pump
5. Yes there will be an ATO setup within the next week or so -- setting that all up right now so keeping the levels consistent isnt a problem
6. The water level between those 2 section is approx 1" or lower as you mentioned
7. Return pump is a Blueline 40xHD -- running about half open (gate valve) to keep the surging in the overflow to a minimum. I will be replumbing this as a T to return to the sump instead of simply being "throttled back". Pump is mounted outside the sump fed by that bulkhead fitting on the drawing. Also the drawing shows the bulkhead alot higher than it really is.
Tank is a 75 gallon RR and the sump is: 30(L) x 15 (D) x 16 (H)
1. No the skimmer cannot fit in with the filter sock in the drain line side
2. Skimmer is a Bermuda Aquatics C3
3. The foam strip is coming out
4. The cheato is in an eggcrate box to contain it and keep it out of the skimmer pump
5. Yes there will be an ATO setup within the next week or so -- setting that all up right now so keeping the levels consistent isnt a problem
6. The water level between those 2 section is approx 1" or lower as you mentioned
7. Return pump is a Blueline 40xHD -- running about half open (gate valve) to keep the surging in the overflow to a minimum. I will be replumbing this as a T to return to the sump instead of simply being "throttled back". Pump is mounted outside the sump fed by that bulkhead fitting on the drawing. Also the drawing shows the bulkhead alot higher than it really is.
Tank is a 75 gallon RR and the sump is: 30(L) x 15 (D) x 16 (H)
Last edited:
intenseimage
Active member
And thank you everyone for your help ... this is our first time doing a
"large" tank (coming from a 22g cube) and we dont have time or skills to build things ourselves so we have to rely on pre-made items (sump) and do what we can do make it work ... so far it has been going well
"large" tank (coming from a 22g cube) and we dont have time or skills to build things ourselves so we have to rely on pre-made items (sump) and do what we can do make it work ... so far it has been going well
melev
Well-known member
Now I see the problem. Your sump is super narrow with little room to hold excess water.
If your tank is 48" long and 18" wide, 1" worth of water draining down in a power outage adds up to 3.7 gallons.
If your tank is 48" long and 16" wide, 1" worth of water draining down in a power outage adds up to 3.3 gallons.
Anti-siphon holes are key to preventing more water draining down.
Your sump will need 6+ empty inches of water to hold that 1" from your display tank.
I would seriously consider a bigger sump. Something more like 40 x 16 x 16.
If your tank is 48" long and 18" wide, 1" worth of water draining down in a power outage adds up to 3.7 gallons.
If your tank is 48" long and 16" wide, 1" worth of water draining down in a power outage adds up to 3.3 gallons.
Anti-siphon holes are key to preventing more water draining down.
Your sump will need 6+ empty inches of water to hold that 1" from your display tank.
I would seriously consider a bigger sump. Something more like 40 x 16 x 16.
intenseimage
Active member
OOPS ... 15 D -- not 5 !!!!
Cant type on this laptop!
Cant type on this laptop!
intenseimage
Active member
which I definitely have if the levels are at the blue line in my drawing!And the float switch from my JBJ ATO will be mounted in the chamber with the heater?
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