Sump w/o plumbing skills?

rfdoc

New member
I originally didn't want to deal with a sump as a beginner because I am not a plumber and have heard horror stories of sumps overflowing and causing a mess. However after having a HOT skimmer break and leak all over my floor I am seriously considering it now. My question is this - is it possible to turn my empty 29gallon tank into a sump for my 72gallon bowfront by someone with no plumbing experience? If so, can someone recommend me parts that I would need for it - how do I get the overflow setup, what kind of pump(s) do I need, do I have to setup different compartments in the sump or can everything just go in together in one area? Any help is much appreciated, thanks.
 
rfdoc - Melev’s site has some great information on <a href="http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html" target="_blank">Sumps and Overflows</a> and is what I based my system on. I went with an acrylic sump but you should be able to use your 29 gallon tank by applying some baffles. My tank is not drilled so I went with a U-tube overflow and it has been running for almost a year with no problems. I set up a smaller sump but soon after installation realized I should have went with the largest sump that would fit under my stand just for more volume of water. Probably the most important decision is matching your overflow gph rate with the return pumps return rate. I went with about 500 gph return rate for mine. Plumbing is really not that hard and there is a ton of people on the <a href="http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3" target="_blank">DIY thread</a> that could answer any question you may have. Here is a picture of mine:

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Sump after installation
Sump03.jpg



HTH

Jay
 
Sure is. All you need to do is take some measurements, go to lowes and get some glass cut to size. Simply silicone in the baffles as shown below. I would suggest that you place the pump inside the last chamber for ease of plumbing. Be sure to note the color coded Unions and Ball Valves and their placement throughout the system.

Just remember that plumbing isn't anything special. You're just using pipes to move water from point A to point B and then back to A. Not hard, just be sure to thoroughly think it out and draw it down on paper before going to the plumbing supply house.

sump.jpg
 
I don't have much for plumbing skills either, and have built my own.

I used a U-Tube overflow like this: http://www.aquacorals.com/ShopOverflows.htm or this: http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html to avoid having to do any drilling.

In my overflow, I experimented with a few different stand-pipes, from a short Durso (didn't work as well as it might have - I used straight 1 inch pipe and should have used bigger), and would up with one of these: http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html

I siliconed glass baffles into a 30 gallong glass tank, but sectioning the thing is optional - if you just want somewhere to put the skimmer and other filtration stuff, don't worry about it. People also simply nest containers (like put a rubber-made tub into the sump) to make compartments, like for a refugium.

I used PVC pipe to build the drain from the overflow to my sump/fuge, because I wanted to split flow unevenly between my refugium and skimmer sections. A far simpler approach would be to just use clear vinyl hose for that.

My return to the tank, I used clear vinyl hose. I did put a ball valve in there so that I can dial back flow if I have to.

I'm using a Via Aqua 3600 pump for the return. Another popular choice would be a Mag-Drive 9 or 12 (I think). Basically, you want it to push somewhere around 300 to 500 gallons per hour with 4 feet of head or so. That leaves the water with some dwell time in the sump, and is under the theoretical capacity of the overflow.

As far as floods go, they can happen 2 ways: the return can fail and the tank can overflow, or the pump can fail and the sump can overflow.

The first of these is the one that has me worried, but basically what I've planned is I keep the water level in the return section of my sump low enough that the pump will run dry before the tank overflows. I have a feeling that I may wind up having to top off way to frequently that way, and it might not be workable for a sump without baffles. You could also do something with float switches, but I'm worse with wiring than I am with plumbing ;) Note that the most likely overflow failure isn't loss of syphon in the HOB overflow: it's a critter jambing the thing!

As far as the pump failing and overflowing the sump, that's just a matter of math: make sure that you have enough extra room in the sump to hold all the water held in the tank over _both_ the overflow box _and_ the return nozzle. If the pump fails, the return plumbing turns into a siphon that sucks water out of the tank until it sucks air! Keep the return nozzle close to the surface to help on that.

Well, that's quite a lot of writing, but it's pretty much what I've digested from reading this forum for the last six months.
 
Thanks for the info and pictures, looks like I have some work to do no matter what way I go.
 
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