T.d.s.

I try to keep mine as close to 0 as possible. Usually once it hits 5 I start thinking about changing cartridges. I just tested mine with two different TDS meters and my RO/DI is reading 3.
 
A new membrane should be arriving this Saturday, so I'll test it. My two year old one was putting out 30-34 TDS. I think John Stephens (LargeJohn) posted that his was 30? not too long ago. Maybe Patrick (Deadeye) will post his. It is new. (btw, where is he?).

In order to get an accurate reading, you are suppose to let the water run for 2 or 3 minutes through the RO before testing the TDS.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9865707#post9865707 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AqCons
I try to keep mine as close to 0 as possible. Usually once it hits 5 I start thinking about changing cartridges. I just tested mine with two different TDS meters and my RO/DI is reading 3.
What is your RO by itself?
What DI resin do you use?
 
Mine comes out 0 TDS, but the DI cartridge still isn't filling up like it is supposed too. The water coming out of just the membrane is 2TDS though, then by the time it goes through the filters it is 0 TDS. Thats using the built in meter and another meter it came with.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9865781#post9865781 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Deadeye
The water coming out of just the membrane is 2TDS though....
That's good to know. My last membrane was fried then (30TDS). IME, The DI resin that comes with the Typhoon will keep the water at perfect zero TDS until the resin is completely expired.
 
Re: T.d.s.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9865429#post9865429 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kb0vhy
What is a good reading on RO water?? What I'm using now is 21ppm???
What is the TDS of your tap water?
 
I currently run 3 tds on a commercial culligan DI unit, just like Matt had up at the shop, which is acceptable for me even though it's not quite 0 like it should be. I like it because it's just DI, and I have no waste water that I'm paying for, plus I can run a hose from it and it comes out as fast as a faucet. I had an RODI for about 6yrs and had no major problems, and since switching to just the culligan DI have noticed absolutly no change in my water quality, 0's across the board, 450cal 14dkh, 8.2ph, just tested. In fact, when I moved, I used 120gals of new water from Matt's to mix w/my 75gal of old water, and never had any kind of bloom or anything. Between running carbon, and 4lbs of ROWAphos, and overskimming I think that 3 tds is acceptable for me and much cheaper for me to pay for. It's also easier because now I don't have to wait a day or more to fill my 55gal drums, just minutes. Also, it's only $143 every six months, and that's a savings on what I was spending on media & waste water on my AquaFx to try and keep 0 tds. In my case, the ease and money savings far out weighs the fact I have 3tds, and from what I understand from Culligan and from Matt's use, it stays that way until the DI is used up 100%, so I can live with that.

Also, if anyone ever gets in a jam and needs some H2O, I would be willing to hook them up. Culligan requires service every 6mts or 4000 gals which ever comes first, and in 6mts time there is no way I'll use 4000gals (still waiting to fund the mega reef under the house), just byobuckets!
 
Last edited:
Next time I bring you some water, remind me and I'll bring my TDS. I wonder if some of the reading is from your container...maybe it's still leaching a little bit of something back out.
 
I replaced my old RO membrane the other day with a new one. The TDS is now 002 on the meter before the DI and 000 after the DI. The TDS of the cold tap water this morning was 123 after letting it run for a few minutes. Walter ("the H20 Guru") at a1rwaterice said that the RO membrane is fried if it is allowing more than 7% TDS through. My previous membrane was only 2 years old, but it was allowing 32 TDS through, which is about 26%. It was also using up the DI resin quickly, but the finished product was still 000 TDS.

Another thing that can affect RO membrane performance is the installation procedure. The seals on the ends of the membrane need to be coated with 100% silicone grease (or dish soap) in order for them to seal properly. Oreily Automotive carries 100% silicone grease. (Note: 100% silicone grease and 100% silicone adhesive are not the same thing :) )
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9923571#post9923571 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by soulless
does testing the water with salt in it hurt any thing on these and should the reading change when you test
"Salt" is a dissolved solid. You want to have the water in as clean of a container as possible when you test it. If you use the same bucket to make saltwater in as you do to keep top off water in, the TDS (total dissolved solids) reading will not be accurate.
 
ok out of the tap its 347 in the tank its 7 wasnt through rodi just got one but wasnt sure if that reading was right didnt really make sence to me why it was so low in tank after tap was so high
 
Back
Top